WJ brake upgrade for a 2001 XJ... Simplified?

[rweaver138]

your rotor choices are

- WJ Rotors (require redrilling for the proper bolt pattern)
- '95 (and up?) crown vic rotors - do not require redrilling of rotors nor grinding of Unit Bearings/Hub assemblies
- 2001 Ford Explorer Sportrac rotors are good if you dont mind grinding 1/8th inch off the unit bearing/hub assemblies.

hmm never heard of the crown vic option, can anyone else confirm this? I've gone the two other routes, having the WJ rotors re-drilled was easier IMO, that way I dont have to grind down all my unit bearings that are attached to my spare shafts

 

[garr]

I am starting to collect parts for this upgrade....looks like the rotor to go with is the '95 & up Crown Vic for a easy/smooth conversion....correct??

I Plan on redrilling the WJ rotors, The Crown Vic rotors are slightly smaller overall & why give up rotor size.

 

[2000bluexj]

1999.5/2000/2001 XJ unit bearings.

You can't simply swap to the WJ bearings redrilled, the XJ stub shaft is not long enough to go through and still get the washer, nut, and cotter pin installed, unfortunately.

scooby, sorry, you're wrong on the cast vs composite... all 1999.0 and earlier (down to the early 90s switch from the RENIX brake setup) have one setup, all 1999.5 and later have the other. Vehicles that have had some of these parts replaced by a previous owner - all bets are off, I have even seen different types on each side before :doh:

Anyone know the thread size on the end of the stub? Maybe find a flanged nut to replace the washer with? I wonder if maybe another aplication would be the same size.
One other question. What is the method of welding the spacers on to the knuckle? Cast steel? Also, how strong does this need to be? Can I do this with a lincoln 110 with fux core?

 

[2000bluexj]

Also, I did a quick measurement on my WJ knuckles and my stock ones. The tie rod mounting hols is inded about 3/4" LOWER on the WJ knuckles that the XJ knuckles.

 

[kastein]

I think it is either cast or forged steel. Probably cast. Put an angle grinder on it and see if the sparks are orange or white, iirc cast iron will give orange sparks and cast steel will give white ones.

Not sure what thread it is, but it'll be metric. It's a 36mm nut so I am guessing based on the Dorman axle nut parts catalog that it's M24-1.5. Obviously since this gets 175 ft-lbs of torque you want a fairly high graded nut...

http://www.dormanproducts.com/catalog/hardware2006/296-301_Sec11_Part2.pdf

 

[jdbwrx]

One other question. What is the method of welding the spacers on to the knuckle? Cast steel? Also, how strong does this need to be? Can I do this with a lincoln 110 with fux core?

The knuckle is forged, so you can MIG weld to it. I used my Lincoln 110 Flux when I did mine (Lincoln 125). Pre-heat it with a torch before you weld. Let it cool slowly and you should be fine. Make sure it is prepped well (clean and beveled) and do multiple passes if need be.

 

[2000bluexj]

Thanks for the link Ken. I could do multple passes with my little welder I guess. Is pre/post heating as important with forged steel?

 

[2000bluexj]

Thread pitch is M24X1.5

 

[2000bluexj]

Doorman # 615-11 has is a flanged nut but has an extruded top that you would bend into a nothch on a front axle shaft. If this is cut off I think it could work.

 

[kastein]

I'm not sure I'd do it that way, but it's worth a try, the nuts are cheap. You really should run the washer for sure, if you can find a way to get another nut of equivalent strength (any axle nut imo...) in there with the washer and a cotter pin, go for it. A flanged nut might be good enough but I'd probably still run a washer.

 

[2000bluexj]

Isnt that the purpose of a flanged nut? To spread the load out? What about lock nut with the washer?

 

[kastein]

It is, but I doubt it's as large diameter as the washer. If it is, go for it.

I'd do lock nut with washer as long as you replace the locknut when it gets worn out after a use or two.

 

[garr]

Not that I would want to do this,
If you used WJ unit bearings with WJ CV axles in WJ knuckles all mounted on an XJ (without the JKS welded on spacers) would everything work?
or is the spacing screwed up?

 

[kastein]

everything would work except for the inner CV shafts, the WJ is a wider axle and they would be too long to fit in an XJ housing. If the WJ was U-joint, this whole issue wouldn't exist, we'd just use XJ inner shafts and WJ outer shafts... at least I would. That plus an 8.8 with either a c clip eliminator kit and 5x5 patterned shafts or 5x4.5 to 5x5 adapter spacers (spidertrax makes em) and some 5x5 wheels would work out quite nicely.

There is a WJ ujoint shaft set you can get from IRO but it costs something like a thousand bucks and you'd only be using half of it, stupid to do that IMO. If they would be willing to sell just outer shafts it might be something to consider but your spare parts would be expensive instead of junkyard.

Short answer: nope

 

[2000bluexj]

I found one of those axle nuts today and took some measurements. Doorman 615-110. Diameter of the flange is 1.625. Total height after you cut off the "top" is .625. I think I have an old washer from a hub that I can measure as well.

 

[BarFlyFisherman]

Has anyone written a final summary of these 16 pages, into a concise HOW TO and WHAT PARTS TO USE?

Where's the link?

This started out as a 2001 swap... then it spread out like an octopus...

 

[XJEEPER]

No part numbers, but lots of descriptions with photos.....check out my build thread.
http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=913774&highlight=xj+buildup+III&page=9

 

[garr]

Just adding to the possible configurations available here; With the WJ knuckle/brake conversion on an XJ.

Has anyone used standard WJ under the knuckle steering (Cut to proper length for use in an XJ) ?
Would the stock XJ Track bar location be ok with this setup or would it still have to be relocated OTA to prevent bump steer?

I haven't looked under a WJ in years but I remember the axle track bar mount being low like the XJ’s.

 

[Vanimal]

Just adding to the possible configurations available here; With the WJ knuckle/brake conversion on an XJ.

Has anyone used standard WJ under the knuckle steering (Cut to proper length for use in an XJ) ?
Would the stock XJ Track bar location be ok with this setup or would it still have to be relocated OTA to prevent bump steer?

I haven't looked under a WJ in years but I remember the axle track bar mount being low like the XJ’s.

i did. i had to shorten the drag link a few inches, but the tie rod worked because my axle is jk width (about 4 inches wider than xj)
you will have to shorten both by cutting them in half and sleeving it.
be aware that the stock utk tie rod will hit everything and bend if you wheel in the rocks. i tacoed mine in one trip.
you will also likely still have to move your track bar bracket as the angles wont be right with the xj track bar locations. if you're going through the hassle of relocating the track bar bracket, do it right the first time and go OTK. works way better and isnt that much more work at all.

 

[garr]

Just another Idea before I start welding.
Using WJ knuckles, Has anyyone went OTK with the tie rod but left the drag link UTK?
it looks like this would help with the track bar/drag link angles.