WJ brake upgrade for a 2001 XJ... Simplified?

Anyone done with this swap please tell me what brand and part # tie rod and steering link replacements you used, I have the WJ TRE's but I cant seem to figure out the appropriate tie rod replacement. i ordered a JKS TR300 and the SOB is way too long, with the TRE's twisted all the way in It is still almost 4 inches too long..... HELP!
 
Can u be a little more specific like which chevy ends what size DOM... plus Im having clearance problems due to track bar and drag link brackets on the front side of the Dana 30 and the WJ TRE's are offset which helps with this
 
JKS has all the right parts you need. You just ordered the wrong tie rod. They have one that is set up for the swap.

http://store.jksmfg.com/merchant2/m...6_957&Store_Code=JKS01&Category_Code=FABParts

From that page:
"This 1.25" diameter tie rod is constructed of thick 0.375" wall DOM tubing. Specifically designed for use with Grand Cherokee WJ outer knuckles and tie rod ends, our FAB Parts Tie Rod features 24mm RH and LH threads.

When used in conjunction with our Flange Spacer, this tie rod is compatible with any OE width Dana 30 or Dana 44 front axles for the Jeep® Cherokee XJ."
 
I have everything for the swap....
now the question is do I drill new holes in the rotor?
They are hub centric so me just using a carbide bit i can make the holes move toward the center will this be fine?
 
So i used a 5/8 drill to drill the rotors and it turned out perfect it is a hair bigger then the stock holes in the rotors but turned out great.
 
This question was asked earlier in the thread but I don't think it was answered. What is the purpose of welding on the JKS spacer. It is captured between the knuckle and the unit bearing and the three bolts. Don't mind welding but is it necessary?

FNF
 
I dont have the part in front of me, but I dont think the spacer is threaded. How can the spacer hold load if it's just a fancy shaped washer? I know welding it would be ideal, but don't the same three bolts hold the load with the stock setup?

By the way I'd like to point out that almost 200 replies later, this is still not totally simplified lol.
 
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You are introducing a movable part into the equation if you dont weld it.. Youd prob be fin just put some locktight on the bolts.. I welded mine on just because its more sturdy and i dont want the spacer to be able to move when the load of the jeep shifts.
 
I dont have the part in front of me, but I dont think the spacer is threaded. How can the spacer hold load if it's just a fancy shaped washer? I know welding it would be ideal, but don't the same three bolts hold the load with the stock setup?

The unit bearing slips inside the knuckle about 3/8" or so. This interference fit spreads the load out to the entire knuckle and the bolts act as a lateral force to keep the two from separating. When you add the spacer, the unit bearing slips into the spacer and barely makes it into the knuckle. Therefore all of the load is transfered only to the spacer and its attachment to the knuckle is important. Think of the spacer as a knuckle extender and you can see how the two should become one.

At least thats how I understand it.

FNF
 
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