WJ brake upgrade for a 2001 XJ... Simplified?

[seanyb505]

Regarding balljoints, what is the point of using XJ uppers? Cheaper? I noticed that the part number for the alljeep ball joints is WJ upper and lowers. I assume WJ uppers will fit the XJ D30 and I know they will fit the WJ knuckle (duh). Is money the only reason some people are using the XJ upper balljoints?

 

[kastein]

The XJ and WJ uppers are K3134T balljoints, it does not matter which you order they will cost the same and be the same part. I ordered those kits as it involves fewer boxes and line items for me to screw up :looney:

EDIT: similarly, whenever you see someone mention using 2000/2001 TJ unit bearings for the WJ swap, they're the same as 1999.5/2000/2001 XJ unit bearings.

 

[seanyb505]

That's good news. Seeing as the title of the thread contains the word "simplified" I think this little nugget of info is good on all fronts.

 

[robojeep]

Is the article correct?
If you use WJ knuckles do you need the weld on spacer or not?
Are the WJ bearings beefier then the XJs & worth the work?

I too would like to know.

If you don't care about keeping a 5x4.5 bolt pattern, can you just use all WJ parts on an XJ D30 without the spacers? makes it a ton easier in my mind...

 

[Lightfoot]

Edit: http://www.jeepsrus.org/index.asp?p=Tech_WJhubs001
check out this writeup

 

[seanyb505]

It seems to me the spacers are needed to keep the ujoints on the proper axis to prevent binding or anything because the XJ unit bearings are shorter than WJ bearings. XJ bearings are used to get 5x4.5 wheel pattern. So if you use the WJ bearing, you shouldnt need the spacer but you get stuck with 5x5 wheel pattern. Would this be correct? None of this is based on real world experience, but reading comprehension I suppose.

 

[FearNoFish]

Edit: http://www.jeepsrus.org/index.asp?p=Tech_WJhubs001
check out this writeup

I don't know when this was written or how many successful XJ conversions have been done since it was written.

As for me, I trust the experiance of this forums hundreds of members and supporters rather than the one you are quoting (Jeeps "R" Us was founded in 1995 and has about 75 members from all over the Central Pennsylvania area.) From what I have been able to determine, the unit bearings are held on by the three bolts not the friction fit with the hub. The JKS spacers are more than three washers.

I'm in the middle of this build right now and don't have the least bit of fear that what I doing by following the previously detailed threads are the way to go.

If there were a "simplified" method the wrenchheads of would have found it by now.

FNF

 

[kastein]

The unit bearings are held on by the 3 bolts, but the vehicle is supported by the interference fit.

 

[garr]

I don't know when this was written or how many successful XJ conversions have been done since it was written.

As for me, I trust the experiance of this forums hundreds of members and supporters rather than the one you are quoting (Jeeps "R" Us was founded in 1995 and has about 75 members from all over the Central Pennsylvania area.) From what I have been able to determine, the unit bearings are held on by the three bolts not the friction fit with the hub. The JKS spacers are more than three washers.

I'm in the middle of this build right now and don't have the least bit of fear that what I doing by following the previously detailed threads are the way to go.

If there were a "simplified" method the wrenchheads of would have found it by now.

FNF

You missed the point; No one is advocating use of the washers instead of the weld on spacers.
The question is if you use the WJ unit bearing with the WJ Knuckle
"DO you still need to use the weld on spacers?"
& is there any + side to using the Larger WJ unit bearings?
As for the bolt pattern, it should be easy to redrill the WJ Unit bearings to match the XJ bolt pattern.

 

[kastein]

As for the bolt pattern, it should be easy to redrill the WJ Unit bearings to match the XJ bolt pattern.

Not sure about that, I seem to recall there not being enough space on the flange, the new studs would run into the body of the unit bearing if I am remembering things right.

 

[garr]

Not sure about that, I seem to recall there not being enough space on the flange, the new studs would run into the body of the unit bearing if I am remembering things right.

This is addressed in the write-up in the last paragraph, He states it works.

http://www.jeepsrus.org/index.asp?p=Tech_WJhubs001

If not I have no problem using the newer jeep bolt pattern, The wheels off the late model jeeps are cheaper & there seem to be more available, I guess it's a supply & demand thing as in there is more demand for the older 16" Moabs than the new 17" wheels.

 

[kastein]

This is addressed in the write-up in the last paragraph, He states it works.

http://www.jeepsrus.org/index.asp?p=Tech_WJhubs001

If not I have no problem using the newer jeep bolt pattern, The wheels off the late model jeeps are cheaper & there seem to be more available, I guess it's a supply & demand thing as in there is more demand for the older 16" Moabs than the new 17" wheels.

Interesting. Good to know, maybe I'll hit the yard up for a set of WJ bearings and tone rings! I need the tone rings for a project, heck, if it weren't for those darn CV joints they put on the WJ shafts I would use the outer shafts as well as the tone rings and bearings and just install my XJ inner shafts and new U-joints and call it a day.

 

[Mike L]

This is addressed in the write-up in the last paragraph, He states it works.

http://www.jeepsrus.org/index.asp?p=Tech_WJhubs001

If not I have no problem using the newer jeep bolt pattern, The wheels off the late model jeeps are cheaper & there seem to be more available, I guess it's a supply & demand thing as in there is more demand for the older 16" Moabs than the new 17" wheels.

Don't forget to convert the rear bolt pattern to match as well. You could get some wheel spacers to match. The XJ/TJ outer stub will work in a WJ unitbearing but it is not the correct length. You will not have enough threads unless you do not run the washer under the 36mm nut.

 

[garr]

Don't forget to convert the rear bolt pattern to match as well. You could get some wheel spacers to match. The XJ/TJ outer stub will work in a WJ unitbearing but it is not the correct length. You will not have enough threads unless you do not run the washer under the 36mm nut.

I have an 8.25 in the rear. The rears are very easy to redrill, And if you don't want to redrill the Yukon 8.25 shafts come drilled for both bolt patterns

 

[kastein]

Don't forget to convert the rear bolt pattern to match as well. You could get some wheel spacers to match. The XJ/TJ outer stub will work in a WJ unitbearing but it is not the correct length. You will not have enough threads unless you do not run the washer under the 36mm nut.

Good to know.

If it weren't for the fact that I JUST bought a set of 5x4.5 rims, I'd think about this. Since I just got rims... I think I'll just get those spacers welded on, run XJ/TJ bearings, and call it a day.

 

[Mike L]

I have an 8.25 in the rear. The rears are very easy to redrill, And if you don't want to redrill the Yukon 8.25 shafts come drilled for both bolt patterns

You may want to check the second bolt pattern on those Yukon shafts. Most are 5x4.5 and 5x5.5 not 5x5, but I am not sure on those particular shafts.

 

[konadht]

How much did you guys have to space out the caliper bracket?

I just finished this conversion on my 01 XJ, but the brakes still dont feel as strong as they should. I saw someone mention a 98 durango master cylinder, any recommendations?

 

[RidgeRunnerXJ]

How much did you guys have to space out the caliper bracket?

I just finished this conversion on my 01 XJ, but the brakes still dont feel as strong as they should. I saw someone mention a 98 durango master cylinder, any recommendations?

On my '99 I didn't space the brackets at all. The caliper centered in the bracket just fine. Just for the record I used '99 XJ unit bearings, stock '99 WJ rotors re-drilled to 5 on 4.5, and the JKS .25" hub spacers. I'm also still using my stock XJ master cylinder and the brakes feel great.

Just a stupid question, are your calipers on the correct side? With the bleed valve above the line inlet? They won't bleed correctly if they're upside down. Just a thought...........

 

[konadht]

Here's a pic.

Thanks for the reply. I have heard of people putting the calipers on the wrong side, but yes the bleeder valve is above where the brakeline/banjo bolt goes in. I am going to re-bleed them. They seem to feel a little better after driving it a little, but I see people saying they lock up 35's. I am running 33's and am no where close to locking them up. I am running stock rear brakes.

Also, I used 01 XJ unit bearings .250" JKS spacer, 03 WJ rotors redrilled, Akenebo calipers and had to space it out.

 

[kastein]

On my '99 I didn't space the brackets at all. The caliper centered in the bracket just fine. Just for the record I used '99 XJ unit bearings, stock '99 WJ rotors re-drilled to 5 on 4.5, and the JKS .25" hub spacers. I'm also still using my stock XJ master cylinder and the brakes feel great.

Just a stupid question, are your calipers on the correct side? With the bleed valve above the line inlet? They won't bleed correctly if they're upside down. Just a thought...........

Which? 99 was the split year, early 99 unit bearings are the old style and late 99 unit bearings are the new style. I'm guessing you got lucky and have the new style, but could be wrong as usual.