WJ brake upgrade for a 2001 XJ... Simplified?

[sunburned]

Do the WJ TRE's have the same taper as the XJ?

 

[jdbwrx]

Do the WJ TRE's have the same taper as the XJ?

I believe they do. I looked through some WJ flip write ups, and they mentioned using the goferit flipserts as well. Goferit only offers one product, so I assume that means that all Dana 30 (regardless of model) use the same taper on the TRE's.

 

[seanyb505]

So I dont end up making four trial and error runs from the junkyard to the auto store - what size socket is used to remove the wj lower ball joints? TIA

 

[Gaius]

For some reason this last set of pads (Performance Friction) on my XJ wouldn't lock up the front brakes. I didn't really pay attention until I did the rear disc swap, after which the rears would lock up and the front wouldn't. So I got a set of 2000 WJ knuckles, rotors, calipers, and steering a while ago. Finally got around to swapping them today. WOW! Very good stopping now. I even reused the JY rotors, calipers, and pads.

I drilled out the WJ rotors to 5x4.5 (Thanks Nick!), and used one of my hub bearings of my 2000 TJ front end. I ordered a Timken HA597449 hub bearing to match the one I had. Funny thing is, the new Timken bearing made the rotor fit perfect in the caliper stand, whereas the factory one I had needed 1/16 washers to space the caliper stand out. I'll be ordering a another new hub so I can get rid of the washers on that one side.

I used the stock steering for now. The WJ knuckle has about a 3/4 inch lower tie rod mount (lower arm), so I mounted my stock style steering to it with a ZJ pitman, which has about a 1 inch drop over the stock XJ one. Great on the bumps with no bump steer. Of course, it's lower, but this is a driver, and rarely goes out. I have all the WJ steering and I'll be building those later with the new trackbar, but it's nice to get some good brakes on it!

 

[Rich69]

Correct me if Im wrong but I read a write-up where the entire WJ outer set up was used including the Unit bearings! The bearing hubs and the rotors were drilled for the bolt pattern. and new studs pressed into the hub. No spacers. Has anyone done it like this? Would the WJ Unit bearings accept the XJ Dana 30 Outer shaft? Would the U-joints be centered? This makes more sense if it would work. Here is the write up and its not the first I read of it being done this way???

http://www.jeepsrus.org/index.asp?p=Tech_WJhubs001

 

[XJEEPER]

Correct me if Im wrong but I read a write-up where the entire WJ outer set up was used including the Unit bearings! The bearing hubs and the rotors were drilled for the bolt pattern. and new studs pressed into the hub. No spacers. Has anyone done it like this? Would the WJ Unit bearings accept the XJ Dana 30 Outer shaft? Would the U-joints be centered? This makes more sense if it would work. Here is the write up and its not the first I read of it being done this way???

http://www.jeepsrus.org/index.asp?p=Tech_WJhubs001

Read the article, looks like lots of extra work to me just to avoid using the JKS weld-on spacer, which is designed for this swap.

Here's how I did mine, not the only way, of course.......and no washers were required to space anything.
http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?p=244889360#post244889360

 

[kastein]

OK... time to add more confusion and questions to the mix. Yesterday at an all-you-can-carry junkyard day I saw fit to procure a full set of WJ hardware - knuckles, caliper brackets, calipers, ABS pickups (for my traction control project), drag link, and tie rod. I now know that my dumb luck resulted in me getting Akebono calipers and brackets.

What things look like to me -
* I need to get the JKS spacers (OGS930, weld-on.)
* I need 00-01 unit bearings (I checked, and Timken supplies the same part number for the 01 TJ unit bearings and the 01 XJ unit bearings everyone is talking about. So this post isn't entirely questions... this is an answer/clarification )
* For simplicity sake I am following XJEEPER's footsteps and redrilling WJ rotors.
* I need XJ upper ball joints (which are the same as WJ uppers) and WJ lower ball joints.

What I'm not clear on - I think the WJ tie rod is too wide? This is unfortunate, it seems fairly well built and I was hoping to use it. Drag link geometry I'll figure out after I get the rest of the thing put together I guess, since it's not a daily driver anymore I'm not too concerned about a bit of downtime. Another thing, how do you get the JKS spacer located properly to weld it down? I was thinking I would bolt a sacrificial worn-out unit bearing into it to clamp it into place then weld the spacer to the knuckle. Does the JKS spacer only serve to align the U-joint axis with the balljoint axis or does it also locate the smaller-diameter unit bearing flange within the larger hole in the WJ knuckle, as I think I read somewhere? If it's the latter it makes me worry that I may slightly misalign the whole thing if I'm not very careful which would result in the inner shaft entering the differential at a slight angle, possibly wearing the splines / side gears faster than otherwise and putting more stress on the inner tube seal then I would like.

I probably should read a few more threads... I've read this one, userbmx's thread, and the posts in XJEEPER's build thread that are relevant to this. I never really planned on doing WJ steering/brakes as I always figured it was too expensive and not something I needed, but then I got most of the parts required for nearly free.

 

[yossarian19]

I think the spacer is just to align the ball joints & universal. I've never heard of another purpose and assumed you could bolt the spacer into place while tack welding it.

The WJ tie rod is too wide: true. The WJ is slightly wider WMS to WMS both front and rear. Not sure how much.

 

[foxwar71]

The tierod is like 4" or so too wide, you could cut and sleeve it or drop coin on the JKS piece.


The spacer lines the the u-joint up on the axis of the BJ's. the diameter of the spacer and knuckle are the same, the bearing overlaps a little bit into the knuckle after the spacer is added. I simply used an old bearing and left them all bolted up while I heated and burned them home. Unbolted them and tossed the knuckle in a sand bath after.

 

[kastein]

Excellent! Thanks guys. I was considering cutting and sleeving the tie rod but figured that was kinda ghetto fab, good to know I'm not the only one thinking about/doing it.

 

[konadht]

For the people who have done this conversion, how much money do you have tied up in it by the end? And did you use junkyard or new parts?

 

[konadht]

Thanks guys for all the info, it has helped simplify the process so far(but I haven't started the real work yet).

Do I have everything I need for this conversion on my 2001 XJ? Here is yet another list of parts I have gathered for people looking into doing this(Hope it helps, I like seeing lists). If anyone sees anything I am missing, please let me know.

-WJ knuckles

-WJ calipers (Akebono) and brackets and new pads
-WJ rotors (going to redrill)
-JKS knuckle flange spacers
-JKS tie rod with their jam nuts
-JKS drag link with their jam nuts
-JKS over the axle mount for trackbar (I plan on cutting and sleeving my RE trackbar)
-JKS extended sway bar mounts
-4 moog WJ TRE's (part numbers: ES3472, ES3473, ES3474, ES3475)
-WJ lower ball joints (K3185)
-XJ upper ball joints (K3134)
-Goferit for tierod flip inserts
From what I gathered, my unit bearings should be fine since its a 2001?​

I am into it about $800 with tax and everything so far. Ouch! However, Eric from knowwhere2jeep.com gave me a hook up on all the JKS parts, so give him a call if you need anything.​

 

[kastein]

I just picked up my balljoints, upper and lower, for approx 90-100 on alljeep. Order 2 of part number ds707488. I think that should bring your total down, plus see if you can get all the knuckles and brake hardware for 100 by pulling a loaded axle at a junkyard. Heck you can probably make your money back by selling the stock wj steering links and shafts to someone on nagca if you play your cards right.

Definitely go with new pads and rotors but I see no reason you can't use junkyard knuckles, brackets, and calipers.

 

[yossarian19]

Building in stages, knuckles and brakes first steering and track bar later, will help keep the cost of admission manageable. Fabbing your own steering, too.

 

[Lightfoot]

I used the wj track bar in my build. made the frame mount double shear as far outward as possible, at the same height as stock, and about one inch forward. The axle end winds up dead center in front of the coil, and just lower than the sway bar bolt. This is about 3 inches higher than stock, and an inch forward. with this set up, using stock wj shortened steering, my track bar is only 2 inches shorter than the drag link, and with in one degree. rigidity in turns increased for sure. as for strength, its forged, and double shear. I had to shorten and modify my passenger side sway bar link, and grind my bracket a bit to get the drag link to clear lock to lock. no way you could use a straight drag link with this though.

 

[konadht]

Kastein,
Thanks for the info. I ordered those ball joints and returned the set I already bought. Saved about $65. I did pick up the knuckles, rotors, calipers, and brackets for $100 off craigslist. Total, now about $735.

 

[kastein]

No problem. Thank Colin (MoparManiac) not me, I was about to bend over and get reamed for the same amount when he reminded me that alljeep exists :thumbup: Even the no-name brands on rockauto were going to run me more than the Spicers from alljeep.

 

[garr]

Read the article, looks like lots of extra work to me just to avoid using the JKS weld-on spacer, which is designed for this swap.

Here's how I did mine, not the only way, of course.......and no washers were required to space anything.
[URL="http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?p=244889360#post244889360"]http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?p=244889360#post244889360[/URL]

But is the article correct?
If you use WJ knuckles do you need the weld on spacer or not?
Are the WJ bearings beefier then the XJs?

 

[garr]

Bump

 

[garr]

Correct me if Im wrong but I read a write-up where the entire WJ outer set up was used including the Unit bearings! The bearing hubs and the rotors were drilled for the bolt pattern. and new studs pressed into the hub. No spacers. Has anyone done it like this? Would the WJ Unit bearings accept the XJ Dana 30 Outer shaft? Would the U-joints be centered? This makes more sense if it would work. Here is the write up and its not the first I read of it being done this way???

http://www.jeepsrus.org/index.asp?p=Tech_WJhubs001

Is the article correct?
If you use WJ knuckles do you need the weld on spacer or not?
Are the WJ bearings beefier then the XJs & worth the work?