Wiring diagram for 5-prong switch

[NCCherokee]

So I ordered a couple switches from Otrattw for my switch box. I've only ever used the little autozone 3-prong rocker switches.

When I wire them up, I plan to jumper the ignition sourced 12v to the backlit LED across all switches. Then I will jumper the fused 12v across all the switches. My question deals with the grounds. Since there are two LEDs, one for back lighting, and one to signal the switch is on, there are two grounds. Can I jump the ground of one light to the ground of the other light, and just run one ground out of the switch box?

Some pics for reference.

Based on that diagram, can I connect pin 6 to pin 7, and run a common ground out of the box?

 

[NCCherokee]

And I know it says I can jumper #7 from #6 on the picture, but I'm not using a dimmer source for the upper light 12v. I plan to use an ignition hot source, like the cig lighter for the backlighting, because I want the backlighting on wen the ignition is on. That's my question, does that change if I can jump it?

 

[souske]

Do you need both positive and negative wires for the dimmer circuit? Do you even care if the switch light reponds to the dimmer? I know I wouldn't...

 

[xj^REMY]

Based on that diagram, can I connect pin 6 to pin 7, and run a common ground out of the box?

yes

so, even during the day, you want the switches to be back lit?

the "dimmer circuit" would allow the backlight to only be on when the headlight/parking lamps/dash lights are on... & also be dimmed... it needs the the neg/ground from that circuit separated from the "on" indicating, in order to only dim the back light

 

[fyrfytr1717]

I don't understand why that note was added about not jumpering 6 & 7. Didn't used to be on there. Maybe it applies to wiring on other vehicle applications? The pin layout is a little different because I have a different version of the Carling switches, but here's my wiring and extensive use of jumpers on my '99 XJ.

Black = Ground 12V-
Light Blue = Fused Ignition Source 12V+
Orange = Dimmer 12V+ (variable)
Cat5 = Outgoing 12V+ to individual relays

If you want the backlights to be on all the time and don't care about being able to dim them, I see no reason why you couldn't use jumpers between Pin 2 & 8 for the Fused Ignition 12V+ as well. This is assuming you are using these switches to control relays (low amp draw) and not the accessories directly (high amp draw).

You would end up with:
Pins 2 & 8 all jumpered together and connected to your fused ignition source 12V+
Pins 6 & 7 all jumpered together and connected to your ground 12V-
Pin 3 on each switch individually wired to the corresponding relay it controls

 

[NCCherokee]

Thanks guys. These will not be on the dimmer. I always have my dimmer turned up all the time anyways. These switches will control relays.

I didn't even think about the possibility of jumping the ignition source for both lights. I suppose I can do that and cut down one more wire to run up to the switchbox. That way I'd only have the cat5e and the positive/ground for the lights to run so I could use a 2 position disconnect.

So is the cig lighter circuit up to the task of powering LEDs on 7 switches and 7 relays? I assume that is a silly question. What other ignition source in the dash is easy to tap into?

Much appreciated guys

 

[WB9YZU]

CAT 5 for driving relays? You guys know that's only 26 gauge, right?

I'd strongly consider going to a 18 gauge wire bundle instead.

You don't want some flimsy sold wire being the weak point in your installation.

 

[NCCherokee]

CAT 5 for driving relays? You guys know that's only 26 gauge, right?

I'd strongly consider going to a 18 gauge wire bundle instead.

You don't want some flimsy sold wire being the weak point in your installation.

It's been done by a ton of people ever since fitchVA did his original itch box thread, and no problems that I'm aware of. Relays pull current on the order of milliamps, and thus do not need much in the way of wiring to switch them.

 

[O-Gauge Steamer]

I believe that he was questioning the use of a single strand wire vs a multi-strand. The single strand wires in the gauge of a CAT5 Ethernet cables are prone to vibration induced failure.

Personally, I am a big fan of using cabling for the control side of the relay wiring as it keeps everything neatly organized and easy to document. I use either 5 or 7 wire strand cable bundles. One good thing about being retired from Field Service. When installing an upgrade to the CNC machines, the wiring was almost always replaced for the new electronics. Out of the kindness of my heart, I always removed the remains from the Customer's site as a courtesy. They never argues as they thought they were getting a deal.

I am still using up wire from nearly 20 years ago...

And, all of my 600sqft Model Railroad is wired with these comm cables.

 

[NCCherokee]

So any other good circuits besides the cigarette lighter that are easily accessible without tearing the dash apart and can support the switches?

 

[NCCherokee]

Well I was able to figure it all out. I used the cig outlet for 12v ign source to the switch box. I jumped the 12v and grounds for both LEDs on each switch together, so there is only 2 wires plus the cat5e exiting the box. Here is a pic of the setup:

My wife picked out the switches from Otrattw.com.

I also got some LEDs for rock lights from a vendor on pirate, and converted my interior lights to LEDs with the extras. Here is a comparison of stock pass footwell light, and the new driver side lights (2 lights)

Here is the dome light

I will get some pictures of the interior lights on tonight when I get off work. It's seriously like daylight with the LEDs. I'll also get some of the rock lights. I think I want to add some more along the rock rails and the front/rear bumpers. Currently there are three in each wheel well

 

[souske]

What does the beer switch do?

 

[sidewaysstarion]

How does that switch box mount to the headliner?

 

[souske]

With wings that go under the visor clip

 

[fyrfytr1717]

I went with the Cat5 for space savings, didn't really question it as I had seen it done by many others. I was already running 6 x 14g and 1 x 10g cable (for roof lights) under my driver side A pillar trim so space was at a premium. I considered 18g sprinkler control wire (it's solid core too though) but only found it in 7 conductor at my local hardware stores. I needed all 8 conductors to correspond with the 8 switches in my overhead console and wasn't aware of any other options at the time I did the install.

The vibration failure issue has been brought up by others in the past. Mostly by the Jeepspeed guys that endure long periods of heavy vibration while racing. One of the guys with some networking background said that Cat5 was actually available in a stranded version, though I never bothered to search for it as my wiring was already done. For DD and rockcrawling use it has worked for me thus far (2-3 years). Keeping my fingers crossed that nothing fails as it would be a hassle to rewire all the control leads...

Oh, and I want to know what the beer switch does too! ARB portable fridge? :cheers:

 

[souske]

Even if the cat 5 were to break, its all of unplugging, and plugging a new cable in.

 

[fyrfytr1717]

Yeah, not a big deal. Just time consuming opening up all the wire loom, removing dash/trim pieces, dropping the overhead console, etc. to run the new one. I enjoyed doing it the first time, but I'd hate to have to do it over again, just like most of the projects on my Jeep.

 

[NCCherokee]

Maybe some day I'll switch it to a fridge. Currently it actually runs lights.

The zombie lights run rock lights

And the interior

 

[souske]

Don't look now, but it appears your zombie lights has attracted a zombie rat

 

[NCCherokee]

Yeah the first picture had my pregnant wife in it, she made me delete that one!