winter oil ?

cruiser54 said:
I agree that flow is more important than pressure in regards to lubrication. My point is that when we use el-cheapo oil filters on our Jeeps with their upside down and sideways oil filters, there is NO FLOW for a few seconds. This is worse than slower flowing oil being there instead.
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I've heard great things about Motorcraft filters. I can't remember the model number (I'm thinking FL400 or FL1A or something) but that's what I run in my XJ. Never once had any funny noises on start up.

One can argue the filter is more important than the oil.

I'm not sure if it's the HORRIBLE Chrysler 3.8 minivan engine, or the cheap chrysler filters - but my parent's dealer serviced wrangler knocks like a son of a @$#@ on cold start. If you can crank it for 30 seconds or so to move oil around, it will only knock for 4 or 5.
 
I almost always use Wix, which one of my local stores stocks. Over the years, I've found that Wix, Bosch and K&N all seem to provide a little higher pressure at least when new, than cheaper filters. K&N seems a bit too pricey for normal use, but I will use Bosch when Wix doesn't happen to be handy.

Long ago, after I'd done a bunch of oil changes on my 87, I did a quick and dirty home version of the old Minimopar study, and sawed open a whole bunch of filters. It was quite interesting. The best filters really did have significantly more pleats, thicker material, etc. The better ones clearly held more crud back than the cheaper ones. The K&N shell was about twice as heavy as the ordinary ones, and the filter itself was made of some hard material entirely different from all the others. Whether or not K&N's other claims are puffery or black magic or whatever, they certainly did not stint on materials.

Anyway, if you're worried about oil pressure and have not tried a premium filter, it's worth a couple of bucks extra next time you change oil. You might gain a few pounds.
 
I currently have a Napa gold filter. I was surprise to not see much of an increase in psi with the 15w40 and Lucas... With winter here I may switch to the suggested 5w40 and still add a quart of Lucas. I also got the link from someone to check the oil gallery
 
Sandydog said:
I currently have a Napa gold filter. I was surprise to not see much of an increase in psi with the 15w40 and Lucas... With winter here I may switch to the suggested 5w40 and still add a quart of Lucas. I also got the link from someone to check the oil gallery
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I'd use 5w40 if you'd like but stay AWAY from the Lucas oil stabilizer. Do a search on the bobistheoilguy.com website about Lucas oil stabilizer and you will see why you shouldn't use it. ;)
 
Sandydog said:
any recommendations on what I should/could add to increase my psi once the engine is warmed up?
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What is your PSI at a hot idle? Have you checked the oil pressure with a mechanical gauge to verify it?

I would run 5w40 Rotella T and a good filter like Wix, Purolator, Motorcraft, etc. The Rotella 5w40 is a HDEO and will be plenty for the 4.0L. More pressure does not equal more flow, and in cold weather you WANT more flow.

Factory specs are 13 PSI minimum hot idle pressure, but I've seen 4.0's run for years with a verified 5 psi at hot idle. My buddy's dad has an '89 with 260k on it with 5 psi hot idle on 10w40, and his still gets better mpg than my 2000. Since the Lucas is basically just oil thickeners, you are doing more damage to the engine starting it cold with thick oil than you would be running a really thin oil in a hot engine.

The most wear in an engine occurs on a cold start, skip the Lucas and just run the Rotella T with a good filter.
 
jeepkid03 said:
I'd use 5w40 if you'd like but stay AWAY from the Lucas oil stabilizer. Do a search on the bobistheoilguy.com website about Lucas oil stabilizer and you will see why you shouldn't use it. ;)
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He (BITOG) ran that test on pure Lucas, cold, in a gear box IIRC, which is absolute BS. All he proved was that it does not degas well when cold, pure Lucas, which any idiot would know will happen with a high weight, cold gear like oil. He never ran it as an additive hot in that demo. Lucas works just fine in a hot climate to boost hot oil viscosity at peak temperatures, when used at about a 1:5 ratio Lucas to motor oil. I ran it for 5 years on my 87 Wagoneer XJ, until I found a decent 20W50 oil that did not break down severally at 190 F on long term drives from shear forces degrading the polymers in the oil.....
 
Ecomike said:
He (BITOG) ran that test on pure Lucas, cold, in a gear box IIRC, which is absolute BS. All he proved was that it does not degas well when cold, pure Lucas, which any idiot would know will happen with a high weight, cold gear like oil. He never ran it as an additive hot in that demo. Lucas works just fine in a hot climate to boost hot oil viscosity at peak temperatures, when used at about a 1:5 ratio Lucas to motor oil. I ran it for 5 years on my 87 Wagoneer XJ, until I found a decent 20W50 oil that did not break down severally at 190 F on long term drives from shear forces degrading the polymers in the oil.....
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exactly. The OP asked about winter oil though. If he wants to do what is best for his engine, he shouldn't run lucas in the winter in NY. I wasn't talking about the test on BITOG, I'm talking about the threads from people's personal experiences. In fact I didn't even know about that test. :dunno: Lucas may be fine in the desert, but in areas that see snow I would run something with a 5wXX wieght.
 
jeepkid03 said:
exactly. The OP asked about winter oil though. If he wants to do what is best for his engine, he shouldn't run lucas in the winter in NY. I wasn't talking about the test on BITOG, I'm talking about the threads from people's personal experiences. In fact I didn't even know about that test. :dunno: Lucas may be fine in the desert, but in areas that see snow I would run something with a 5wXX wieght.
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It is my understanding, that while he IS in NY, he is having trouble maintaining hot oil pressure at idle, thus the Lucas entered the discussion. I ran 20W50 with a quart of Lucas and had no problems down to 30 F cold start (I am in Houston) for years.

IIRC I saw a Mobil one oil recently that was something like 10W50, which I had never seen before. I had never seen a 10W50 before, but:

https://www.google.com/search?q=mob...s=org.mozilla:en-US:official&client=firefox-a

https://www.google.com/search?q=+oi...s=org.mozilla:en-US:official&client=firefox-a
 
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verified with gauge.... My warm idle is 10psi and when reving engine it would not go past 35. Cold start is aboutv40-45. This is with 15w40 and Lucas.
 
jesus christ stop using oil additives...
 
birchlakeXJ said:
Primarily OVER 60 degrees farenheit, I use 10-30
Primarily UNDER 60 degrees farenheit, I use 5-30

That recommendation is per my owners manual and I have no reason to second guess that as it seems reasonable.

The screeching is not your oil. As you mentioned, have somebody start the engine while you listen. I'm betting on a belt. Inspect it for glazing and wear and if it's old, just replace it. I like the Goodyear Gatorback belt. Be aware that the belt on the 4.0 needs to be awfully darn tight on the 4.0 to stay quiet....
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Birch, interesting. I am going to change my oil this week and it looks like 5w-30 rotella based off your post. What year is your rig?
 
Cruiser, this gives me something to check too. Every once in a while my pressure will drop to around 11 at idle after the jeep is warm after long drives. Just like the person in the post you linked, while driving its 45-60 and around 40 when cold.No noises not even a lifter tick on my motor.

Did you also blow it out by attaching a hose to the sensor adapter or did you use another method?
 
I've used Quaker State 5w30 since I've owned this rig. It runs a solid 195 degree temp year round. Fires right up no matter the temperature outside. I've gone from NYC to KY 4 times, Northern PA, MA twice, Upstate NY atleast 100 times, 240,000 + and still running strong as ever. Seafoamed 3 times since owned. Same Bosch Platinum plugs since 2004.
 
^ x2
 
stockli said:
Cruiser, this gives me something to check too. Every once in a while my pressure will drop to around 11 at idle after the jeep is warm after long drives. Just like the person in the post you linked, while driving its 45-60 and around 40 when cold.No noises not even a lifter tick on my motor.

Did you also blow it out by attaching a hose to the sensor adapter or did you use another method?
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I didn't do it. I just stumbled upon the link. My theory is that the gunk is in the end of the sender and the 90* brass elbow the sender screws into. That's the bottleneck since the orifice is smaller there than the threaded hole in the block. You could easily see into the block hole with the 90* fitting removed. Check yours out and let us know what you find please.
 
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