whats your brake pad of choice?

If you think about it, wouldn't slotted or cross-drilled rotors catch more crap in them in the dirt and mud? Race type pads will tend to be harder and not stop as well in an emergency stop from low speeds (around town) because they need to heat up first. Ever notice the race car drivers (road circuits) warming up their brakes on a restart? Bigger brakes are good (expensive) and rear disks are good (expensive), but there is nothing wrong with the cheap pads, rotors, or drums either. They will not make your brakes "spongy". That is from old fluid, air in your lines, excessive runout in the rotors or misadjustment of the rear brake shoes. Putting a lot of money into fancy non-stock brake parts won't make your Jeep any safer. It might even help you roll it over easier, especially if your lifted. First thing though is not to believe anything that a tire shop or any other place tells you with the "free brake inspection."


ive come to the conclusion that im going to end up buying duralast brakes... its just a station wagon like someone said earlier... theres no need to stop on a dime, just so as long as they work good and are in good condition, i have good luck with my hawk racing but from the reviews, i hear such good and really bad reviews from both ebc and hawk pads... but no one ever complained about their duralast pads :dunno: so i'll replace the fronts and call it a day.
 
Roughen up the rotors with sandpaper and clean with brake cleaner before replacing pads. Don't ignore the back. They need to be checked to see if they are adjusting up right. Also replace out all the brake fluid to prevent future brake problems and expense.

Adjusting rear brakes: They are supposed to be self adjusting, but that shit freezes up quite a bit, and even after I fixed mine, it seemed like the original self adjusting cable was made too long to adjust properly. The best is to take all this stuff apart (pull the drums off and lube it all up including dia-assembling the adjuster star wheel). But, thru the slots, you can tighten up the free play in the rear brakes which could be taking up more fluid than the stroke of the master cyl can displace. If you never did it before, you probably need to pop off the rear drums and look at everthing.

Bleeding brakes: The best way is the GRAVITY method. The only problem is it takes a lot of beer and you don't want to drive right after. (CAUTION: YOU MUST BE 21 TO BLEED YOUR BRAKES THIS WAY!) I use it whenever I replace brake cylinders or calipers, but mostly it's just to change the brake fluid, which I do whenever I change shoes or pads. Ideally you change brake fluid at least every other year. If you worked on old cars and saw rusty pistons, you'd know why, but people also say that old brake fluid boils and won't stop you right.

1.) Get the car in a position where you can open up the bleeders. I always like to break them loose with a 6 point socket being careful not to break them off. If you can, spray them with breakaway or similar a day before.)
2) Starting with the bleeder futhest away from the master (pass. rear), open it about 1 turn. You can put a little hose and cup on it if you want to keep the old fluid from running all over. Make SURE to keep the master cylinder topped off with fluid and DON'T let it get down to where air gets back into the master cyl. Let it flow this way until the fluid comes out of the bleeder clean. This will take at least 2 cups or so of brake fluid. Using gravity alone, you can drink 2 beers while topping off the master cylinder for the first corner. (CAUTION: Do not store brake fluid in beer cans or put beer into master cyinder. Drinking a little brake fluid however will probably not kill you. Beer in your brake lines might.) Snug up bleeder good when you're done.
3.) Proceed to drivers rear and repeat. It won't take as long because the long brake line has already been purged of the old fluid. So you have to drink your beer faster.
4.) Pass front. Drink even faster.
5.) Drivers front. Etc.

Patience can be substituted for beers, but that's no fun.

This prevents the rubber pieces from going any further than they are used to and self destructing.
"
 
I didn't hear anyone recommending the United line from NAPA. The True Stop line sucks, but the United line seems to stop better than any pads I've tried. Reasonable price too! Any one else run these?
 
doubt you'll see a major difference between most of the OE-replacement junk from the local parts stores. Among the "performance" pads, the difference range wildly. Some are junk, some are wonderful. Since my XJ is a bit heavier than stock and has heavier tires than stock, I upgraded to Powerslot rotors and Hawk LTS pads. I really don't know if the LTS pads are much better than the HPS pads, but I know both work as advertised and the Hawk rotors are great as well. I haven't had a problem with mud and junk getting stuck in the slots on my rotors. Drilled are worthless for normal-sized brakes, they are designed for huge brake systems on race cars, mainly to reduce weight. On stock-size rotors, they often reduce braking performance compared to slotted or even some smooth rotors and introduce failure points.
 
Roughen up the rotors with sandpaper and clean with brake cleaner before replacing pads. Don't ignore the back. They need to be checked to see if they are adjusting up right. Also replace out all the brake fluid to prevent future brake problems and expense.

Adjusting rear brakes: They are supposed to be self adjusting, but that shit freezes up quite a bit, and even after I fixed mine, it seemed like the original self adjusting cable was made too long to adjust properly. The best is to take all this stuff apart (pull the drums off and lube it all up including dia-assembling the adjuster star wheel). But, thru the slots, you can tighten up the free play in the rear brakes which could be taking up more fluid than the stroke of the master cyl can displace. If you never did it before, you probably need to pop off the rear drums and look at everthing.

Bleeding brakes: The best way is the GRAVITY method. The only problem is it takes a lot of beer and you don't want to drive right after. (CAUTION: YOU MUST BE 21 TO BLEED YOUR BRAKES THIS WAY!) I use it whenever I replace brake cylinders or calipers, but mostly it's just to change the brake fluid, which I do whenever I change shoes or pads. Ideally you change brake fluid at least every other year. If you worked on old cars and saw rusty pistons, you'd know why, but people also say that old brake fluid boils and won't stop you right.

1.) Get the car in a position where you can open up the bleeders. I always like to break them loose with a 6 point socket being careful not to break them off. If you can, spray them with breakaway or similar a day before.)
2) Starting with the bleeder futhest away from the master (pass. rear), open it about 1 turn. You can put a little hose and cup on it if you want to keep the old fluid from running all over. Make SURE to keep the master cylinder topped off with fluid and DON'T let it get down to where air gets back into the master cyl. Let it flow this way until the fluid comes out of the bleeder clean. This will take at least 2 cups or so of brake fluid. Using gravity alone, you can drink 2 beers while topping off the master cylinder for the first corner. (CAUTION: Do not store brake fluid in beer cans or put beer into master cyinder. Drinking a little brake fluid however will probably not kill you. Beer in your brake lines might.) Snug up bleeder good when you're done.
3.) Proceed to drivers rear and repeat. It won't take as long because the long brake line has already been purged of the old fluid. So you have to drink your beer faster.
4.) Pass front. Drink even faster.
5.) Drivers front. Etc.

Patience can be substituted for beers, but that's no fun.

This prevents the rubber pieces from going any further than they are used to and self destructing.
"

Thanks Winterbeater for your nice write up.
One Q. Do you think, there will be a difference in bleeding between a ABS system and a non ABS system? :spin1:

'92 XJ with ABS
 
Wagner thermo-Quiet. Stops great and there is reduced brake dust so it looks cleaner.


I just did fronts and rear on my '97 using the same.

hubs97xj said:
Re: whats your brake pad of choice

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Who makes the Duralast pads? Do you know? Do you have any basis for assuming their components are trash aside from what you read on forums?

I think they're trash too- partly

My basis? I've worked at a midas where I did a whole lot of brakes.- doesn't make me an expert, but I've done a whole lot of brakes.

the reason I think they're trash: my experience, almost every day I would see cars where the pads outlasted the rotor

the semi-metallic lifetime cheapo pads last forever but only if you have good
rotors and clean installation, but even then they groove the shit out of rotors for some reason. they squeak more too.

to be fair to duralast, part of the problem is the people installing the cheapo autozone crap half the time don't know what they're doing really and something ends up sticking or contaminating the surface.

NAPA all the way as far as I'm concerned. Anything but the Tru-Stop pads for the front, tru stops are ok in the rear if you don't mind a few squeaks or do any heavy towing. other wise get the top of the line Organic or Ceramic

I got the Thermoquiets cause they were the cheapest ceramic (advance) and Ultra Premium rotors (Napa) because they're nice and should last at least two sets of pads, whereas the cheaper stuff seems to wear out quicker.


ramble on


-B
 
I have a 00 XJ and the OEM pads did little to stop it. I put my first set of Hawk HPS on about 55,000 miles ago with badly groved rotors. They lasted a good bit. I just put a second set on a couple of months back with the cheapest Autozone rotors I could find. They work pretty well. I think next time I'll try the LTS. I am told they are a bit more agressive but make a bit more noise.
 
I run Hawk LTS and haven't heard anything at all. No dust that I can see, either. This is with Powerslot rotors, I dunno if that makes a difference in noise or dust.
 
Hawks are what I usually use, on my personal vehicles.. and on client's vehicles as well.
 
Would the hawk hps, and decent autozone rotors be a good choice for more stopping power?

Im ok with replacing pads, and noise is fine, I just want a decent upgrade from my big o tire pads from the previous owner.
 
my experience with my 20 year old 89 is that it is a complete waste of money to buy front brake parts without atleast inspecting/adjusting/or rebuilding the rear drum brakes that tend to not work unless they have had recent maintenance done to them.

i wonder how many xjs are out there were only the front brakes are working, especially with larger than stock tires.
 
Next time i do rotors and pads on mine i'm gonna go with a premium rotor from Napa and probably go with some EBC pads or something a little heavier duty.
 
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