What would someone think?

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Damn guy, because im gess im not rich like eveyone els on this site and put 5 grand under my jeep. Sorry for asking a simple question.


You don't need to be rich to build a good rig you just have to look for bargains and be smart with your upgrades. Granted, JeepSpeed can get expensive SLCpunk is right you'd be better off doing what he said and it would be a much better rig for what you want to do. :cheers:
 
That is sick! It looks maybe just a tad higher then stock but very cool indeed.
 
WTF is with you and stock? search for steering upgrades there are too many to list. I run the stock steering with a square tube sleeve welded over the tierod until I use the zj setup with a drop pitman.

Maybe it's because it's all he has to work with? Or maybe because he's comfortable with it? Or he just wants to see if he can improve on what he has without replacing it outright? Could be anything, really - and you don't know. And you won't know - not unless you ask civilly, I'm sure.

Calm down. I don't like to fink, but we've been getting reports about your behaviour. I'm not in a position where I can do anything definite about it, but I'll kick them up the chain to someone who damned well can - and they will if need be.
 
Thank you guys very much. Those pics are sweet, that is what i was hoping to shoot for.

I like my rig farly stock. If you go high then of course you have to do a lot with the transfer case , drive shaft and so on. Big tires are cool but i dont want to regear to keep the performance up.

Some of the trails we go on up here, you cant lift your rig because you wont fit under fallen trees and stuff like i do all the time.

Thanks for those pics, those will help me for sure.
 
What would be someones opinion on coil overs on a stock height jeep? ,...
...,Im talkin' daily driver that can still go crazy on the trail,...
..., Im not talkin' 10 feet in the air:scared: Im just saying getting some minor air.
Why stock height... because i like the handling of it on the road,...
I assume you'r talking about trail-running/desert-running, and not rock/obstacle running.
I really hate to say this, but if you want to save money, don't jump it. If you want to jump it, prepare to spend money.

Probably your best, least cost solution is a set of really good shocks and modified bump stops.
The crowd favorite for shocks around here seems to be the Bilstein 5100 series. If (when) I get hi-perf shocks, I'd get the 7100 series because they're re-buildable/re-valveable.
The factory bump stops are pretty much a "hard stop", just a landing pad for the suspension. There are a couple options that provide a more progressive stop. This is necessary(really) if you want to hit them hard a lot(which you do every time you jump). If you don't upgrade the bump stops, something is going to break.(probably something expensive)
If you're sticking to stock height, put the wagon up on jacks, and disconnect the shocks. The axles will drop a little more(maybe an inch or 2) then the stock length shocks allow. Figure out how to get a shock long enough to get full droop on both ends, and you'll smooth out your landings a little more.
If you catch air a lot(even just a "little" air) consider limit straps to keep the shocks from "topping" out. Most of them are rated to take it, but it's not good for them.
If you're sticking to "go-fast" trails, you may find you don't need to upgrade the anti-sway bars. (check my avatar photo close, that's both factory bars in place and connected) The Anti-rock bar is great for increasing travel, but the lower anti-roll rate can make the wagon feel a little unstable.
 
I just hit things hard sometimes. I dont go 60 mph and hit jumps just to jump. I just want to make what i got the best it can be.

Not saying i would use them, But what kind of shock is it were the shock controles the movement and support the weight without any springs?
 
Pharoah - are those painted windows blocking out the back, or did you remove the windows and have filler panels welded in? I've been kicking around doing something similar with my 88 2-door, and I like the look on yours.

This isnt my rig, but he removed the glass & just replaced it with sheet metal: to adapt the fuel filler & more sponsorship area
 
search: Air shocks, those are what you are referring to.

compression travel is important, whereas for crawling around you are more worried about droop, and low center of gravity(usually leads to minimal bump travel unless you tweak the upper/lower shock mounts). My suggestion is to remove the springs/shocks in front, and all but one leaf in the back, cycle it all and bumpstop accordingly so you don't end up stuffing your d30 through your oil pan, and find some shocks that fit.
good luck
 
Well, this is where you're wrong and why we're here to teach you. If you build your jeep correctly, you will NOT lose any handling abilities. Personally speaking, my jeep handles better than it. Ever did when it was stock, way less body roll and less understeer. Valve your shocks correctly and youre good. To go.

X2. My jeep handles about a million times better after lifting it and beefing up the steering and even removing the rear sway bar.
 
This isnt my rig, but he removed the glass & just replaced it with sheet metal: to adapt the fuel filler & more sponsorship area

Cool - I was just wondering.

I'm overhauling my 88 to make it more of a working truck, and part of the reason I was thinking of something like that was for security (if you can't see it, you won't be tempted to grab it.) I've even been kicking around trying to make tilt-out storage there, but I doubt I will. It's more of an intellectual exercise than anything else.
 
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