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What would be better

BigDog said:
Seems like every site/forum that has had this topic (Just about all of them) they seem to be 50/50 on what axle to put a locker in if only are doing one.
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That's because it's strictly an opinion based answer.

Glass half empty, Glass half full..
 
So then maybe the question should be what axle shaft is more likely going to snap with a locker in it D35 or D30 lol
 
BigDog said:
So then maybe the question should be what axle shaft is more likely going to snap with a locker in it D35 or D30 lol
Click to expand...
depends..

If you have 260x Joints up front,
and a Dana 35 in the rear...

My best advice would be sell the locker and buy some stronger front shafts for now..

I understand funds are low.. maybe now isnt the best time for "This" upgrade.. Why not use it as a resource to do something as simple as upgrading to 297x shafts and maybe throw in some new spicer 760x Joints?

I know it seems like thats no fun.. But you will ultimately thank me later with 33s:shhh: Carry your d35 shafts and 260x shafts as spare, Open/Open on 33s is not that bad.. especially if its reliable:dunno:
 
Hasta

You already have the locker, so just go ahead and install it. You won't be the first one to run that combo. I've seen you wheel, and you are not a throttle jockey.

Meanwhile, get the motor put in, and get the rig mobile. Get out and start enjoying it again. Then you can save up for a D44/8.8/D80.

Problem solved.
 
Yeah a Dana 80, that will solve your problem.
 
It all depends on how you drive it. I am locked on 32" with a Chrysler 8 1/4 in the rear and a stock 30 up front. I tend to be pretty light on the gas. I do have a Dana 44 and Ford 9" to upgrade to however the front shafts will probably get changed to alloy later at 600.00 dollars for the set I think that my stock shafts will work fine for the type of off roading I have done up to now. I still havent broken anything yet. Did I run the Rubicon no. I have freinds that have with open/open on 32" and no armor where they asking for it yes they put some pretty good dents in the rockers and gas tank. Did they break anything no because they have a very light foot.
I think the only person that can answer your question is you. Sometimes you just have to figure it out for yourself. Thats what I did so I locked the rear left the front open then installed a long arm kit to get as much flex as possible. After installing the long arm kit my Jeep went further that in had before even though it was locked in the rear because I have more articulation up front.
I was also told that I couldnt install a locker in the front of my Jeep (misinformation) so that also helped me decide.

Okay theres my novel. Sorry for the long winded story. Hope this helps
 
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crazymoose1990 said:
It all depends on how you drive it. I am locked on 32" with a Chrysler 8 1/4 in the rear and a stock 30 up front. I tend to be pretty light on the gas. I do have a Dana 44 and Ford 9" to upgrade to however the front shafts will probably get changed to alloy later at 600.00 dollars for the set I think that my stock shafts will work fine for the type of off roading I have done up to now. I still havent broken anything yet. Did I run the Rubicon no. I have freinds that have with open/open on 32" and no armor where they asking for it yes they put some pretty good dents in the rockers and gas tank. Did they break anything no because they have a very light foot.
I think the only person that can answer your question is you. Sometimes you just have to figure it out for yourself. Thats what I did so I locked the rear left the front open then installed a long arm kit to get as much flex as possible. After installing the long arm kit my Jeep went further that in had before even though it was locked in the rear because I have more articulation up front.


Okay theres my novel. Sorry for the long winded story. Hope this helps
Click to expand...

The 8.25" is a much different beast than the 35. If its a 29 spline model it'll be capable of quite a bit more than the 35, and will handle a 33" & locker combo pretty well.
 
I don't know I'm locked front and rear d30/d35. I've got a pretty light foot offroad and a lead foot onroad. Haven't had a problem yet. As long as your not trying to recreate KOH on the trails you run and you try to get as little uncontroled tire spin as possible you should be fine. I've never seen a babied d35 explode I've watched lots shatter when driven recklessly offroad.
If you have to choose i'd choose putting it in the rear. Then saving for a front one. If you upgrade your rear later you can sell the old stuff to recupe some of the cost or just get a mini-spool. If your in control while your wheeling you'll be fine.
 
Avanteone said:
SEARCH NEWB. :roflmao:

Gets brought up all the time. My vote, based on years of experience and having run rigs with a single locker in each end at different times, is to do the rear axle first, UNLESS it's a D35. People will argue that the front will help "pull" you over things, etc. The MAJORITY of the time, you are CLIMBING an obstacle, and therefore the majority of the weight is on the rear axle. I'd rather have both wheels going with 75% of the vehicle weight on them, rather than both fronts pulling with only 25% of the vehicle weight on them.

John
Click to expand...


I agree with the "pulling you over the obstacle" analysis. Yes more weight is transfered to the back vs when you are on level ground. Since the engine is in the front of the vehicle it starts with alot of weight there already. Climbing over an obstacle will transfer SOME weight to the back but not all of it. But, then again alot of people do load the back of their rigs with a bunch of supplies.

Now lets consider another instance, one I see alot. Sidehilling on a slick trail. If you lock the back both tires will spin equally causing them to break loose and your back end slides down the hill out from under you. Since you dont have rear steer there is no way over correcting for the slide. If you lock the front you can turn the direction you want to go and pull yourself in that direction.

All that said. You ALREADY have a rear locker? Put it in then. Better performance than no locker.

Just my .02
 
Flip a coin.
 
tell you what i'll buy the locker from you i have a 35 being pushed by a 4 banger and i'm only puttin 31's on. so i'm good just sell it to me.
 
Hickboii said:
tell you what i'll buy the locker from you i have a 35 being pushed by a 4 banger and i'm only puttin 31's on. so i'm good just sell it to me.
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Well depending on what happens here you and I might be talking about your new locker some time soon here lol
 
My dad has one in the rear of his yj and its a d35 with 33s. But he's running a four cyl and has stock gears. I cringe every time I go out with him because he's a heavy foot wheeler ( that's almost an oxymoron) and there is going to be a day when it breaks. I wouldn't put it in with a 4.0l and 33 your just asking for trouble.
 
Sell it to Hickboii, spend a little more to get a locker for the front. Once you replace your rear axle with something stronger put a locker in that also.

FWIW, I run a Spartan in the front of mine and never notice it on the road. But it works wonders on the trail
 
yeah i was looking at buying one of those spartan's for my front as well as the rear but first i need to figure out why the damn thing won't stay running. I will buy that lock rite from you tho BigDog.
 
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