What was done to YOUR rig(XJ/MJ) today MECHANICALY????

Pulled the door panels off of the Driver's side doors. Having sticky locks, that needed a healthy dose of lithium spray lube and thought my driver door would have a bad rod clip but instead had a busted handle spring. The saran wrap was still on the doors indicating that these doors haven't been opened since the Jeep rolled out of the factory 23 years ago.

Going to try to do the passenger side today.
 
Pulled the door panels off of the Driver's side doors. Having sticky locks, that needed a healthy dose of lithium spray lube and thought my driver door would have a bad rod clip but instead had a busted handle spring. The saran wrap was still on the doors indicating that these doors haven't been opened since the Jeep rolled out of the factory 23 years ago.

Going to try to do the passenger side today.

I need to do this for all the doors on mine.
 
I need to do this for all the doors on mine.

Mine have needed this for a while too. Unfortunately I need to get the thing back on the road first.
 
Did the passenger side today. Everything unlocks on the first press of the button and all the windows roll up and down much better. Used to you had to press unlock multiple times to get the 2 of the doors to unlock and one of them you had to physically work the lock switch to make it work.
 
Cleaned up and reorganized the cargo area on the Jeep. Modded the lid on the military footlocker type box in the back to be able to strap things down on it.

Checked the transfer case because I've noticed a small leak from the output shaft seal. It was almost a quart low order a new seal and slip yoke bushing to get it fixed back up.

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Got my Jeep back from the shop. Now to extract the broken bolt in the front pinion and slap a front driveshaft in.
 
Well my daughter got her brakes all fixed (third try) and the bad front drive shaft U-Joint replaced on her 89 beast, :clap:so it may be safe for you all to come back out of hiding on the road again if your up north in the Colorado area :-) :laugh3:


I think I finally sealed the last of my roof and window rain leaks on my 87 Waggy. :D 7,000 miles left to go :-)


Got my new Jeep replacement front door speakers in, 200 Watts each , LOL for my new 40 Watt radio I bought for Christmas last year, and forgot to install cause I was debugging the choking and pucking back fire issue earlier this year. I almost bought another one, and then recalled I had one already LOL.
 
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Been driving the Jeep to put some miles on the new rear axle setup. Jeep sputters over 4k RPMs, so guess the CPS I just put in might be junk. Still idles like poo too, so the IAC I put in is probably junk too. Thats what I get for buying cheap replacements.
 
Been driving the Jeep to put some miles on the new rear axle setup. Jeep sputters over 4k RPMs, so guess the CPS I just put in might be junk. Still idles like poo too, so the IAC I put in is probably junk too. Thats what I get for buying cheap replacements.


I doubt it is the cheap parts, I use them all the time with no problems. Have check the distributor shaft for rotational slop and side to play, or index it? What year is it?


Vac line to the MAP sensor 100$ sealed and leak free from end to end?


O2 sensor, header cracks, O2 sensor heater relay is it getting 12+ volts to the O2 sensor heater?


I have never Poo idle so not sure what that means????
 
I doubt it is the cheap parts, I use them all the time with no problems. Have check the distributor shaft for rotational slop and side to play, or index it? What year is it?


Vac line to the MAP sensor 100$ sealed and leak free from end to end?


O2 sensor, header cracks, O2 sensor heater relay is it getting 12+ volts to the O2 sensor heater?


I have never Poo idle so not sure what that means????

Will have to check all those. Its a '91.

Slight stuttering and rough idle. It idles different every time I start it.

I know my header is decently cracked. On my list of crap I need to fix.
 
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On some vehicles when you first start it, it uses a stored map from the ECU to tell it how to idle. Then after the computer gets the inputs from the different sensors it then takes over the MAP and adjusts it accordingly to the current conditions.

Does the idle get better as it's warmed up or does idle poorly all the time startup and when it's warm?
 
On some vehicles when you first start it, it uses a stored map from the ECU to tell it how to idle. Then after the computer gets the inputs from the different sensors it then takes over the MAP and adjusts it accordingly to the current conditions.

Does the idle get better as it's warmed up or does idle poorly all the time startup and when it's warm?

Idles poorly all the time, no matter if its warm or cold.

I've already checked for vacuum leaks. Leaning towards o2 sensor due to the rough idle and random loss of power at high way speeds? Also getting horrible gas mileage, but that may be from me having a really heavy foot and enjoying having 4.56 gearing in the back again. I'll tinker with it this weekend.
 
Idles poorly all the time, no matter if its warm or cold.

I've already checked for vacuum leaks. Leaning towards o2 sensor due to the rough idle and random loss of power at high way speeds? Also getting horrible gas mileage, but that may be from me having a really heavy foot and enjoying having 4.56 gearing in the back again. I'll tinker with it this weekend.


O2 sensor, or lack of electrical power to the thermal resistor in the O2 sensor causes open loop/closed loop confusion at idle. Sensor is too cold at idle to work right with out that heater working. It can be tested like a resistor, and test for the power to it from the O2 heater relay.


Tiny easy to miss loose hose on tube, and crack tubing is very easy to miss on the run to the MAP sensor (fire wall on yours????) Or attached the manifold, in which case (its hidden under the MAP) it may be leaking there.



Cracked manifolds can drive a good O2 sensor and ECU nuts and force them to switch to open loop-gas guzzling mode.


I am now a firm believer in crusier 54's Dizzy indexing fine tuning mod!!!! And in checking for issues with the Cap rotor, and Dizzy shaft bearings and for slop side to side and rationally. I almost pulled and scrapped an engine, that turned out to be a failing 2 cent rolled sheer pin holding the drive gear on the shaft on mine. The symptoms started out small and got worse over the weeks.



Also check the Vac line at the FPR nipple to see if the FPR is leaking fuel into the Vac line!!!! And for fun make sure none of the fuel injector wires or plug wires got swapped like 3+4 plug wires in any recent work, LOLOL.



Check the plugs business ends for signs of all or just 1 plug being lean or rich, or oil fouled!!!!
 
My 87 Waggy was pressed into emergency DD service today.


My DD Saturn, gas hoarder, LOL, decided it had had enough of the 4 year old DuraJunk water pump from Cheap-Zone. must be 100 source offers for $20 pumps for it online, and the dealer says no one has them but they want $184 plus ..... to order me one, LOLOL. Found an NOS GM factory new for $86 at Amazon, gotta love Amazon some times, 48 hour free delivery. Already pulled the AC Comp out the way. Lost a computer (fan), then a Large ext monitor for it, then the Water pump, in one week. Last month it was falling trees in my yard landing on neighbors house, then a week later another tree landing the other neighbors car.



The gremlins have been busy!!!!
 
Working on gears tonight. Here is my story. Procure Ford 8.8. Swap in 8.8. Listen to very noisy gears. Check pattern. Learn that I do not currently possess skills necessary to check gear patterns. Every pattern on the net looks beautiful or you can at least see where the pinion contacts in a nice oval. Mine is some sort of weird line. It is possible my gears are borked.
Drive Side:
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Coast Side:
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