What was done to YOUR rig(XJ/MJ) today MECHANICALY????

[denverd1]

new transmission fluid, had to add 3/4 of a quart to bring it to full on dipstick. old fluid was burned and low. no more lag when I push the skinny pedal.

also popped the plastic off the inner back hatch and reconnected the lever to the gate release.

looks like i need a new rear diff seal and I'm still chasing down what sounds like hydraulic fluid being pressurized through some lines under the hood. not related to anything that's rotating. seems brake related but still stops on a dime. bled lines before last trail ride. I've got no idea....

 

[R6TeXJ]

How are you supposed to check the tranny fluid? (aw4)

Drive it around and then pull over and check the dipstick?

 

[devildog0]

How are you supposed to check the tranny fluid? (aw4)

Drive it around and then pull over and check the dipstick?

I usually check when I stop for gas. My dipstick also has a "full cold" level.

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk

 

[R6TeXJ]

aww ok

 

[denverd1]

aww ok

yes, check it warm and in neutral. if you change it, start jeep and back it out of driveway then pull it back in to make sure it get circulated through the system.

also just realized I likely had old dirty fluid in the cooler and lines running to/from it. Guess I'll pick up another couple quarts and repeat the process.

 

[R6TeXJ]

yes, check it warm and in neutral. if you change it, start jeep and back it out of driveway then pull it back in to make sure it get circulated through the system.

also just realized I likely had old dirty fluid in the cooler and lines running to/from it. Guess I'll pick up another couple quarts and repeat the process.

thanks!

 

[Ecomike]

Tranny fluid is checked in Park on the AW4 jeep.

I may have finally sealed the last of my roof and upper windshield/mount area leaks on my Wagoneer. Bone dry today, same for Saturn. So nice not to have to remove 2" of water from the floors. :clap:
Still need to wait for the typical horizontal 30 mph downpour tests.:wow:
Now to decide what to do about the cracked windshield from the roof leak repairs, :-(

Got to spend some Jeep DDDD time with daughter over the holiday (lives a good 1000 miles away now) under the hood going over diagnostic methods and stuff.... :sunshine:

yes, check it warm and in neutral. if you change it, start jeep and back it out of driveway then pull it back in to make sure it get circulated through the system.

also just realized I likely had old dirty fluid in the cooler and lines running to/from it. Guess I'll pick up another couple quarts and repeat the process.

 

[R6TeXJ]

gonna try and pickup a tcase with an SYE already installed. But will have to drive 5hrs one way to get it.

 

[Ecomike]

Finally got some repairs done on the garage door

Huge rust hole in the firewall repair under the 87 Renix coolant bottle and examination near it to find the last rain leak source flooding the passenger front floor is next. Finally some decent weather to work in again

 

[devildog0]

Swapped the power steering fluid in the reservoir with new stuff and did a vacuum test while cold. Engine pulls 20 inHg at idle when cold. I'll do another check tomorrow when hot when I get to work. No vacuum indication of a restricted exhaust so on to something else to figure out my poor fuel mileage. I think I'm going to try to unhook and cap the evap system hookup on the intake manifold for the drive to work tomorrow and see what kind of fuel mileage I get, try to eliminate that from the list of possible causes before I move on to something else.

 

[denverd1]

Replaced the water pump, again, on my Saturn. No more DuraJunk for me. Used an NOS GM water pump. Ebay was $20, dealer wanted $188, but said they were out of stock now, LOL. Found an NOS GM on Amazon for $88.

292,xxx miles on the Wagoneer and counting. :cheers:

I had to grind the shit out of and sand the outside roof on my Wagoneer last 3 months, pulled the luggage rack strips in the middle off, that had rusted holes under them in the roof, and ended up with about 30 holes in my roof by the time I got the deep rust pits out of the roof.

I used Rustoleum Rust Restore spray cans to prime and convert the remaining flash rust to primer, 3 coats, still need to go back this spring and finish sanding and grinding some locations, and I used a 30 year outdoor siliconized acrylic latex caulk, paint-able to seal the holes, for now. Then I had to pull the windshield top side trim as the head liner was still dropping a lot of water on the floor in the rains here, and found the same serious cancer rust (deep pits and all) hiding there as well. Ended up with a 20% hole area on the span of the tray. I used steel filled epoxy to seal and reinforce the large holes, one was 2" long by 1/4" wide. Used GE 30 year Silicone II, to seal the mini holes.

Caulked up the last leak locations in the passenger wing window.

Then still had some water getting in. Shinned a light from the inside up between the steel roof lip that supports the windshield and the windshield gasket and found a few paper thin gaps between the metal roof support for the windshield and the gasket, so I used a spray can of rubber like sealant/sealer on the entire tray/gasket area, after I had sprayed the cleaned up rusted tray with the Rustoleum Rust Restore rust converter primer. IIRC it has Tannic acid in it that converts the rust to primer. I have very high hopes for it. Used it on the hood about 3 months ago. But it must top coated as the primer is not UV/weather resistant. Still need to to put all the top coats on all of it.....Plan to use sandable grey primer (Rustoleum auto formula), then the OEM silver (Duplicolor), then a UV resistant outdoor clear coat (Rustoleum). The Rustoleum these days is easy to use in rattle cans, sprays sideways, up side down and the nozzle never clogs between uses. Awesome stuff if it holds up? I also bought a sealer primer for some of the areas. I plan to rattle can spray the entire rig and clean coat it the same way. Wish me luck!!!

just take the carpet out and chop the top off that thing already!

 

[IslanderOffRoad]

Failed at solving death wobble this weekend. After tightening down front suspension components got it on the test drive in the same spot I got it last week. Left front tire hitting a manhole cover at 45.

I know my caster sucks. Might be time for offset ball joints (control arms maxed out). Maybe a new steering link (oldest component), or just alignment and balance the tires?

 

[R6TeXJ]

Failed at solving death wobble this weekend. After tightening down front suspension components got it on the test drive in the same spot I got it last week. Left front tire hitting a manhole cover at 45.

I know my caster sucks. Might be time for offset ball joints (control arms maxed out). Maybe a new steering link (oldest component), or just alignment and balance the tires?

Get under the front and have a friend saw the steering wheel back and forth and look for excessive movement in the steering joints, trackbar joints.

I had it for a long time and replaced a lot of the parts in the front. Finally, after having an alignment done, then the issue went away.

 

[denverd1]

Failed at solving death wobble this weekend. After tightening down front suspension components got it on the test drive in the same spot I got it last week. Left front tire hitting a manhole cover at 45.

I know my caster sucks. Might be time for offset ball joints (control arms maxed out). Maybe a new steering link (oldest component), or just alignment and balance the tires?

how old are your ball joints? stock pitman?

When I put sleeves in, I did new ball joints and ZJ steering at the same time. not sure what exactly fixed it, but I had a couple loud pops that went away. My bet is your TREs are beat.

 

[IslanderOffRoad]

how old are your ball joints? stock pitman?

When I put sleeves in, I did new ball joints and ZJ steering at the same time. not sure what exactly fixed it, but I had a couple loud pops that went away. My bet is your TREs are beat.

Ball joints are 2 years old, did them when I swapped in the axles. Stock pitman arm.

Half the TRE’s are a year old, the other half no idea.

 

[devildog0]

Changed the power steering fluid again. Going to keep doing the resiviour until I get clean fluid in the system.

And replaced the drivers side door check the old OEM unit was unsalvagable. Gottareplced the passenger side too but wanted to see what I thought of this CROWN replacement first.

At least one back door will need one in the near future.

Also reorganized the cargo box in my cargo area.

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk

 

[Ecomike]

What the hell did that used one come off of? Des not even look close to OEM or even a badly mangled one?

Front end parts issue.....Usually just rocking the steering wheel, engine running, you can see the bad part jump or hop confirming what part(s) are bad

 

[devildog0]

What the hell did that used one come off of? Des not even look close to OEM or even a badly mangled one?

Front end parts issue.....Usually just rocking the steering wheel, engine running, you can see the bad part jump or hop confirming what part(s) are bad

Came out of the Driver's door of my 95 XJ. The previous owner simply unhooked it from the body so the door was free swinging. The little rollers were mangled and no longer straight and the arm itself basically had a trench cut in it lol.

 

[IslanderOffRoad]

Was working most of the weekend but got my front end torn down to replace the steering and the right unit bearing. TRE’s were pretty trashed. Hopefully this solves the death wobble

 

[IslanderOffRoad]

Was working most of the weekend but got my front end torn down to replace the steering and the right unit bearing. TRE’s were pretty trashed. Hopefully this solves the death wobble