What was done to YOUR rig(XJ/MJ) today MECHANICALY????

Took another stab at the 87 brakes. Used a clamp to cut off the flow to the read brakes clamping the rear flex-rubber hose off. No change so the rear brakes are not the problem, or not the only problem if there is more than one problem.

Put brand new rotors on the front just for grins and the brakes now make a racket and they are worse. WTF????

This is the toughest dang gremlin I have ever chased.

I should have stuck with the mushy peddle and good brake action while I was ahead I guess.
 
Installed the Hack & Tap kit along with both driveshafts. Bolted trans up to new 4.6 stroker. Finished hooking up the harness, trans cooler. Dropped trans pan and installed fitting for temp sender and gauge. New trans filter, torque converter installed. Drop the fuel tank for new pump and regulator this week then hook up the Banks exhaust and fire this mother up.
 
All in a day's work right? LOL
 
The RenX files saga continues, brakes or no brakes LOL

So this weekend we clamped off the passenger side brake hose, and bingo we had a solid peddle with engine on, vacuum to the booster on.

I had already procured 2 new rotors in desperation to try and we replaced the front rotors on both sides and got no change in the brake peddle mush.

So we ran the hose test and got a confirmation the passenger side front was the source of the mush per 8muds suggestions.

So I procured a rebuilt duralast (LOL) caliper and new hose. Bled that caliper and the combo valve ONLY. Still mush?????

But now I have great brakes, it just takes a 3-4" stroke to the floor to get there now?????

Now I am really puzzled!!!!

I plan to bleed the entire system again tomorrow, but I figured the rears would not get air (combo valve block it to the front?) , but perhaps that is wrong?

Any thoughts front the gallery here about using a real vacuum pump and a spare MC lid to make a vacuum system to bleed (suck) the air out from the top side all at once???? Can the closed system handle that much vacuum???? Or should I use a limited vacuum like the el-cheapo ones that Harbor freight sells. I can supply nearly 30" of hard vacuum with my large lab vac pumps, or my AC professional vacuum pump, but they might suck the seals out the calipers or wheel cylinders unless they are designed to handle it??????
 
Installed new drag link, tie rod, and tie rod ends on mine. Discovered the driver's side hub assembly was toast, so picked up a new one at O'Reilly's. Hubs be expensive now. :| Firestone wouldn't even do an alignment since the Jeep is leaning too much to one side.

Still need to find a front drive shaft, fix the yoke on the front diff (broke a bolt for one of the straps), figure out what to do about my rear axle/gearing problem, have my frame stiffeners welded on, and replace the driver's side leaf spring.
 
Crusher16 said:
Installed new drag link, tie rod, and tie rod ends on mine. Discovered the driver's side hub assembly was toast, so picked up a new one at O'Reilly's. Hubs be expensive now. :| Firestone wouldn't even do an alignment since the Jeep is leaning too much to one side.

Still need to find a front drive shaft, fix the yoke on the front diff (broke a bolt for one of the straps), figure out what to do about my rear axle/gearing problem, have my frame stiffeners welded on, and replace the driver's side leaf spring.
Click to expand...

I broke a strap bolt once. Picked up a few at the junkyard.
 
Crusher16 said:
Installed new drag link, tie rod, and tie rod ends on mine. Discovered the driver's side hub assembly was toast, so picked up a new one at O'Reilly's. Hubs be expensive now. :| Firestone wouldn't even do an alignment since the Jeep is leaning too much to one side.

Still need to find a front drive shaft, fix the yoke on the front diff (broke a bolt for one of the straps), figure out what to do about my rear axle/gearing problem, have my frame stiffeners welded on, and replace the driver's side leaf spring.
Click to expand...

dang gina!

Where'd ya get the draglink/tie rod/TREs from? I may need to do this to mine to help with the wobbles.
 
R6TeXJ said:
dang gina!

Where'd ya get the draglink/tie rod/TREs from? I may need to do this to mine to help with the wobbles.
Click to expand...

Got mostly everything from Rock Auto. I had a TRE from Iron Rock Offroad left over from something and another TRE from Vatozone.
 
Did as good of an alignment as I could with a tape measure and my eyeballs. This will at least get me to work and back. Probably order more parts soon.
 
Actually worked on the jeep today. Fixed an electrical gremlin in the switch panel, rusty contacts. Took apart the steering to fix some angles and final go to a home made double sheer frame side track bar. Pulled my pitman arm to replace it with a zj one. Had the puller on and it wouldn't budge. Applied fire and when it let go I thought someone was shooting at me. Now just waiting on parts.
 
Better jcr bumper shot

 
Received an expired registration citation from Richardson PD this morning. So theres that.
 
Exxon Valdez Jeep said:
My Lokka locker for the D30 showed up today, I'll be locked front and rear for ROM!
Click to expand...

Ive got no love for that company. They have no connection to Aussie and actually just copied their locker and said Aussie copied them. One of the most blatant frauds ive ever seen.

boo lokka

support your forum sponsors https://www.torqmasters.com/
 
I should get a locker
 
The Aussie was $50 more and all the lunch box lockers have a similar design. Lokka stayed in Australia, Aussie sold out and moved to NY off all places. I'll keep my $50 and renew my membership with it.
 
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