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what size coil spacer?

And the missing moulding on the door, but he believes that it's possible to make a rig a functional offroader without looking like a junker :shhh:

As with the end caps for the bumper I am in the process of trimming them to fit so that it doesn't look like crap anymore. Thanks for your opinion though.
 
tldr, but yeah. you are NOT aware of all the factors if you think adding coil spacers will make your rubbing go away.

take your jeep back to 4wp, and tell them you need new bumpstops, maybe they can figure it out for you, cause you are not listening, then getting your panties in a twist when people accurately assume you dont know what your talking about.

furthermore, about the so called 'rake'... dude your trippin, its like 1" higher in the back, the smallest non-problem ever. i think an automotive buisness man can figure it out.

Wow you didn't read very closely did you. I said I am not that concerned about the rubbing while flexing problem which is not really a problem since I don't get to take my Jeep out off-roading anymore since I am in college down here in south Ga and its very flat down here. I am aware that if the tires are just eating the fenders severely while flexing then more bump stopping is needed, but thanks for your concern. I am more worried about the rubbing while turning at full lock and can be solved with where the rubbing is occurring. And yes the rake is very minor and normally I would leave well enough alone but since I can kill two birds with one stone here without having to spend too much money then why not.

And just for your information I will be buying new bumpstops as well because one of my factory ones have completely dry rotted and fallen out so for anyone telling me to buy some, I am so thanks I got that covered.
 
Thanks for being a dick though that was real nice.

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lol i find the 16 stereotype funny im 17 have had a job well over a year along with school so i buy anything i have on my trucks myself not my parents, ive done all my own work on my past 3 trucks. i generally can do almost anything but full motor/trans tare downs which i probly could if i really had to but havent needed to. i will say im generally way more mechanically inclined then most kids my age

I was simply just using that to make a point I wasn't trying to say there are no young teenagers who have any clue what they are doing. But many teenagers really don't know much since they are new which is what I was trying to say is I am older and have been at this for a while. I respect that you are 17 and have the know-how to be able to work on your own car. I think more kids should be taught how to do the basics atleast and know a little bit about a car. Taking auto shop and driver's ed out of highschools was one of the dumbest decisions the public school system has ever made. There was a high school close to mine that still had auto shop and I almost transferred to that school just so I could take classes there. Keep on wrenchin man.
 
if you have a short arm throwing a spacer up front isnt gonna solve your problem. the more you lift the front with a short arm the further back your front axle gets sucked and intern more rubbing. fix your problem by 1. new track bar 2. coil spacer and 3. drop down brackets or long arm. it will push your axle back to stock location which is centered in the wheel well

This is true but there are many 4.5" systems out there that still use stock short arm mounting locations with adjustable arms. I have 3.5" RE springs and adjustable control arms so I can make it work but I would never do this if I still have factory control arms. I realize that I am about at my limit here with all my components but I have just enough wiggle room here to make this small change. Which is the reason I started this and asked this question because if I was going to need a spacer much bigger than about 1.5" then I might be past my limit on what I have on my rig and I was just going to live with how it is. I am in the process of looking around at long arm systems as we speak but it will be a while before I can get one since they are so pricey. I have been looking at the new Rough Country long arm upgrade since for the price it seems to be a decent system. I have trying to read reviews on them to see how people are liking them.
 
Please don't clutter the thread if you don't have anything productive to offer in a nice and civil manner. Thank you.

So we can take this to mean that you'll be doing the same, then? Good.

Carry on.
 
Look if I didn't know that putting a small spacer on would help me here then I would have asked the question on how to solve my problem with rubbing while turning and then all the suggestions and tech info that has been offered to me would have been highly considered. But I do know that this will help I just wanted to get an opinion on how much I should go with. I know that bumpstops help with rubbing while flexing and I am on top of that since I have to replace my stock dry rotted ones anyway. I am aware that I am about at my limit with my short arms but I do have adjustable ones so I can make this work since it is a small amount. I also have and adjustable trac bar so I am good there also. And I have extended brake lines so that is not a concern for me either. Please keep this thread on topic of the tech question I asked and please keep your responses polite and respectful.
 
Yes, I will be polite and civil if others give the same respect.

Hold it. Your approach to this has been less-than-stellar here, and has directly dictated the replies that you're receiving. Let's recap:

Ben824 said:
So please unless you can offer an opinion of how much you think I may need to fix the problem and not make the back end look like it is squatting, then please spare me I already know I am not an idiot teenager. I was even an automotive major at my local tech college before I decided I wanted to go bigger and get a business degree from a big 4 year university.

You asked for help, you got replies that were direct and civil, and then decided to reply to them with dismissive arrogance. Not surprisingly, people didn't take kindly to it. Moving on:

Ben824 said:
Thanks for being a dick though that was real nice.

Namecalling. Good move! Way to gain that respect you seem to think that you deserve.

Ben824 said:
Wow you didn't read very closely did you.

More of the same arrogance we saw first time around. Seems to be a pattern.

Don't like the replies you're receiving? Modify your attitude, and don't even think of trying to squirm out of your responsibility in this department. You kicked this off through your actions, and now you're being called on them. But if you think you're going to turn this around play the victim here, you are sorely mistaken.

Want things back on track? Take the above advice. It'll make people a lot more inclined to want to actually help you.
 
Anywho....

I know that bumpstops help with rubbing while flexing and I am on top of that since I have to replace my stock dry rotted ones anyway.

remember that even new stock ones will compress down to the metal, so new replacements won't change the limit. Hockey pucks will and are cheap. I don't know how far the extend poly bumps compress.



And yes, we do eat our own here :D
 
Thanks for being a dick though that was real nice.
I do my best.

Here's a piece of constructive advice for you: Use the multi-quote button and you can reply to multiple posts in just one. It'll help keep your thread less cluttered.
 
How about some ACOS adjustable spacers? then you can set them where you like. If I am not mistaken i believe they also have adjustable bumpstops on them don't they?
 
How about some ACOS adjustable spacers? then you can set them where you like. If I am not mistaken i believe they also have adjustable bumpstops on them don't they?

I think those start at about 1.5" though don't they?
 
How about some ACOS adjustable spacers? then you can set them where you like. If I am not mistaken i believe they also have adjustable bumpstops on them don't they?

No,the bump stop is "fixed".
 
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