What else to upgrade while doing OME 2” lift?

9

92xjsp

NAXJA Forum User
Some of ya’ll may remember, I posted here a while back about wanting to upgrade my suspension but not wanting a big lift, and with the help of some people here I pretty much decided to do an OME 2” lift. (I’m actually 92xj, or I thought I was, but I can’t get my password to work and it won’t recognize any of my email addresses so I had to re-register.) Well, I’ve been saving my pennies and I’ve got enough to do the lift now, so I’m back for more advice.

I’m doing this mainly because right now I’m sagging 2 inches from stock and my shocks are about shot, and I want to redo the whole suspension system all at one time. I don’t want to go any higher than 2” because it’s a daily driver and I like driving fast and cornering fast to get around the city, and I have to drive 60-200 miles every weekend to get to the places where I go off-road. When I go off-road, usually I’m more concerned about getting someplace (usually a remote river access point for camping and canoeing) than about doing obstacles or competing with other jeeps on difficult trails – but some of the river trails can be pretty difficult. I’ve already got a winch, and it gets a fair amount of use. Also, this jeep is a keeper for me, so I’m willing to spend the money to get good quality stuff that’s going to last a long time. Last year I spent $3500 for a Jasper rebuilt engine (which is running great BTW) so I figure I have to keep this jeep for at least 10 more years to make the engine purchase pay off :)

So, with that for background, what else should I upgrade or replace while I’m putting on the lift? Track bar, control arms, bushings, bump stops, steering components? Everything on the chassis is 12 years old so I’d like to replace anything that’s subject to wear, and I usually try to follow the principle that as long as I’m replacing I might as well upgrade while I’m at it. My object is great road manners, but also the best possible off-road performance for such a small lift. I’m planning to do new tires already of course, and I’m game for some fender trimming so I may be able to fit 32s or at least 31s on it. Also, even if it’s not suspension-related, are there other things that will eventually need replacing anyway that are easier to do while the suspension is disassembled?
 
Hey I've got a 92 also and did the OME lift. After the lift I started to experience DW so I would check/replace ball joints, tie rod ends, CA bushings, steering stabilizer.
 
i haven't been on NAXJA enough lately to know if anyone has fully narrowed down the "Death Wobble" but on the two xj's, one mj, i lifted 3.5,4.5,and 5.5 inches all with RE kits, i have had no death wobble. I feel that its because they all got the proper track bars and a new stearing stabilizer. I am sure all suspension components add up if they are all just a little worn. But i think the track bar has a lot to do with it.

good luck, gene
 
If you havent got them already, a set of JKS Swaybar disconnects, and I'd vote to junk the stock rear swaybar if yours has one.

Dunno about an adj track bar? you'll have to do the lift & see how centered the axle is. If yours is stock & 12 years old, a new OME stabilizer isn't a bad idea. Ball Joints, TREs etc may need attention, but I'd try it without first, see how it drives...

I'd replace all the driveshaft UJs/straps and the two front axle UJs... or try to find a set of later model/ABS front shafts with 297x UJs, service them and keep the serviced 260x stockers as spares. This is a good peace-of-mind upgrade.

While doing the front axle work, it's also prime time to do brake pads/rotor service if they are getting ugly. I'd also straighten/remount the front brake hard lines to allow more droop. Everyones results vary, but adding longer front brake hoses is another option if the stockers some up short. Hoses make very poor limit straps :)

Also since you mention trimming & larger (than common for +2") tires, while the front wheels are off, I'd pull the inner plastic fenderwell liners off, and do some beating/smoothing of the seams on the rear well. With stock control arms, the tires will want to use this area as a bumpstop, and if left unattended, that seam can cut a slice through a tire. (I ruined a new 33x12.5 BFG MT on 4.75" lift that way) Speaking of...MJs and some XJs have longer bumpstops, you may want to snag a set and install if yours are the short kind.

Trim the little lips off the front axle shock mounts...the rearmost lower edge will conflict with the LCAs. A little attention here is worth a good bit more droop.

Hmmm thats a start... remember to begin hosing down the bolts with PB Blaster a week or two ahead of wrench-day & have fun.
 
I just installed a OME 2" lift which actually gave me about 2.75". I replaced the old bushings on the rear leaves with daystar poly-urathane bushings. They will sqeek for a few weeks after you install the lift but after you ride it around for a bit the squeeking dies down. I already replaced my steering stabilizer and shocks and when I was installing the lift I removed the rear anti-swaybar which honestly I don't find there any difference in on road performance, I think it has to do with the extra leaf in the OME rear spring packs. Offroad it does make a huge difference in articulation.

Woody is right as well, you'll want to get a set of JKS sway bar quick disconnects. I haven't bought those yet but I plan to get them as soon as I graduate university this December.

When to do install the lift, make sure you spray all the bolts with PB Blaster daily for the week or so prior to installing the lift, it makes things a lot easier to remove. If you run into any hitches along the way, email me [email protected]

Good luck,
Jamie
 
Thanks for the advice, I’m going to try to incorporate pretty much everything suggested here. Several people suggested pre-spraying all the bolts, I’m actually thinking about doing that a month in advance and then doing some partial disassembly ahead of time just to make sure I can get the first turn on troublesome bolts. Anybody done this? Which bolts are usually the worst? I’ve heard breaking the shock mount bolts is pretty common.

I’m new to all this so I’ve been reading some writeups people have done on their lifts – does anybody know of any especially good write-ups you’d recommend?
 
Rustys has a link to one on 4x4trails.net Ive always enjoyed the write ups on jeepin.com, theres one there for the RE 5.5. I cant think of any write ups about OME stuff though.
 
Your front tires will probably rub on the lower control arms when the steering is cranked to the stops. Here is a solution:

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Those are factory WJ lower control arms that have been modified to fit an XJ. They are banana shaped, they curve inwards where the tire would rub. The bushings are too wide to fit into the XJ control arm pockets, you will have to trim off 1/4 inch off one end, 1/2 inch off the other.

I would also suggest installing the brake hoses from a YJ to give you more slack there. Tell the parts guy you want all 3 hoses from a '95 Wrangler without ABS and you will be set.
 
In your case you may want to look at the BDS lift with the OME shocks/SS. I will have a full write up on the lift with the new spring packs and shocks in a few days, just to let you know.

I had used RE stuff for years on my ZJ and came out with exceptional results. The only problem was I had two of their kits, the RE 3.5 and the 4.5. The 3.5 netted me 5" and settled to 4.5 after a year of beating the crud out of it, front and rear bumpers, with a winch in front. The Re 4.5 kit netted me 6.5 and settled to 6.25 again after betting the crud outta it. This basically holds true for the XJ kits as well.

Anyways, I wanted the best riding components for my XJ with a good 3-3.5" lift and nothing more. The BDS met all those needs and it was in a reasonable price as well. I picked up some OME LT shocks to go along with it for a better ride.

As for the track bar, Im using the JKS adj. Should work fine. Other than that, check all your TRE's, ball joints, UJs, etc. as stated above.

Give yourself a good tune up, suspension rebuild, brake job, coolant flush, change all your fluids, and you should be set for a VERY long time.

As for tires, I have run basically all the AT's out there and many of the MT's. I do alot of on road driving and wanted a good, quality ride with little noise. I didnt like the road worthyness of the BFG AT'S, so I am puttoing on a set of Michieln XCX/APTs (also called LTX A/T). These have a somewhat aggressive AT tread, not as much as the BFG, but a little more than the Dueler. Hopefully they will provide a good road ride, with decent off road capabilites.

Goodluck and like I said, I should have everything put together by the end of the week.
 
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