What are you doing to your rig - the continuing saga

But, then, again, I seemed to have not snugged down the distributor, and it failed to start again. Today, I reset it, and it idles well. Let's see it I can drive it tomorrow. :party:
 
Pulled the soundbar.. dremeled the speaker hole to accept some 6.5" components and drilled holes for the tweeters. Mounted crossovers and added a little bit of killmat. Came out pretty cherry, however, I knicked the aged fabric with the hole saw.. not like it was immaculate to begin with... but ya know, frustrating.
Soldered the connections and sounds great- comparatively speaking. Need to bypass the factory amp and/ or replace it still. Anyone have a go to for cheap 4 ch amp?
 
Been searching on bypassing the amp.. can't hunt down the exact wiring for my year. 97', BUT the post I found on the rear speaker polarity matched that of a 98'. So who fn knows?!
 
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Buying parts to put much needed E Brake on thec14bolt . The Detroit lockers allow too much free spin before the driver shafts lock up and allow the park pin to hold you so you roll off shit before it stops ...pretty much tired of that . I still have the park cable from handle back to where it should hook to the cables off the brakes so just need some universal cables to go from that to the brakes . It'll be nice to set the brakes put it in park and have stay put ...Going to put the wheel seals in that I was supposed to do 5 years ago I'm tired of lubing my tire and calipers with 140w.
 
I'm taking care of some real important stuff......vanity plates

071VXpnl.jpg
 
Hypoid said:
I like it!
Click to expand...

Thanks I wanted to just gey MANCHE but wasn't able to. Normally I don't care about plates but for the MJ figured it was a worth while thing.
 
Just put on a new shift cable I can now actually get into park without having to park with the jeep ready to roll away before I can get out to block the wheel . I also found the source of my interment NO-BUS while getting ready to set up my parking brakes it seems that parking brake has purple ground that if disconnected shuts off the dash I never thought the source of my NO-BUS was in the parking park wiring but that's where it lived .
 
Finally got around to installing some parts that have been sitting for the commander for 4 years since I got tired of the blown out front struts and the upper BJ were clunking . I had full upper and lower arms sitting but the lower BJ were fine which keeps me from getting under a jeep on jack stands which I hate since the commander taint tall like the dodge or crawler . Half the engine bay has to come out just to reach the strut bolts and the driver side sway bar bushing bolts were one with the bushing the bushing was good just the bolt threads wich are all full thread were buried into the bushing . I had a small 3 inch lift sitting so I put that on as well which it took me a couple times to figure out how to fit that extra long clevice on with the strut and I had to play with the strut clevice bolt mount holes to fit the bolt through ...lol...found out after getting it all on that the bolt would not line up and straight through . Driver side took 5 hours passenger took...2 . Now I'm going to see if I can pop the rear on b4 I head out for a week it's got prerunner/ stink bug look lifted front no rear . Now I need tires with tread I've been waiting to replace them until I did the lift . Can't fit much on a 3 inch lift with full fenders .
 
dirteexj94 said:
New shock mounts and brake lines on the 9"
cb802ad7733a757cb9a2c7e60d4105bf.jpg


Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Is the 9" a new axle for ya, or you just freshening up those components?
Couldn't find a build thread, what front axle are you pairing the 9 with? Running 37s it looks like?
 
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Put on a set of 265/70/17 duratracs with 6 spoke gloss black aftermarket wheels got them at good deal cheaper than a set of the Chinese tires I was going to buy off eBay alone without wheels . Now with 3.5 lift and the true 31s I can actually fit under it to change oil without a jack or ramps this is the only Jeep I ever owned that I had to jack up to change oil . The negative is during the install of the tires and spacers I noticed the radiator I put in about two years ago is leaking from the driver side lower tank area so I'm going to have deal with another radiator install into this commander again which these aren't easy to get in and out like an xj ...And then I started my Dodge and it started fine but was doing funny things voltage wise on the Guage then I shut it off and it wouldn't crank like battery was dead so I checked the connections and jumped it and the volt meter was stuck at just under 12.5 I let it run for 5 minutes shut it off tried staring no start jumped it again same 12.5... I disconnected the grid heater positive from the passenger battery and started the truck and 14+ on the trucks volt Meter so the rekay must be stuck on which means there is a constant 200+ amp draw from the intake grid air heater which explains the constant 12.5 volt read .Then I broke the alternator jumper wire as I turned the nut and accidentally spun that wires connection...So now it's a new Jeep radiator , rekay solenoid and alternator jumper cable that needs replaced next week along with brakes on the commander . I think I took a bad turn lifting this daily driver for looks as it's now going to end up another money pit .
 
Starting to collect the parts to turbo the jeep... Impasse is where to mount it. in the engine bay, I am worried about the heat in there and lack of room. Or a rear mount "sts style" there's room for it in the rear axle well area, just need to figure how to keep the filter clean if that's the case and no intercooler is needed. The jeep is just a dog with the 35s and 4.10s on the highway with head winds or in the mountains. So far I see it as about half the price as a stroker, ls swap or 4bt swap.
 
sixditchoffroad said:
Starting to collect the parts to turbo the jeep... Impasse is where to mount it. in the engine bay, I am worried about the heat in there and lack of room. Or a rear mount "sts style" there's room for it in the rear axle well area, just need to figure how to keep the filter clean if that's the case and no intercooler is needed. The jeep is just a dog with the 35s and 4.10s on the highway with head winds or in the mountains. So far I see it as about half the price as a stroker, ls swap or 4bt swap.
Click to expand...

Why not just regear? 4.10s is good for 31s but probably should be 4.88 or 5.13s of 35s.
 
Pulled off my rusted to hell sliders.. God I hate stripping metal. Debating on a good set of stiffeners then either reworking these to weld back on or just full send boat sides. Previous owner painted rusted metal and skipped primer. Gee, Thanks! Already have done bumpers and axles... feeling like a media blaster would've been worth its weight in gold bout now!
 
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