What are you doing to your rig - the continuing saga

Gotcha, I already spent too much on engine stuff. Thought about the headers but saw the price and quickly put that to rest. There's no room to work in the bay with everything in. Even some of the basics things are a royal PITA. For the amount of money I spent rebuilding my 4.7 I should have just LS swapped it.

Here's some pics. Not a lot of space. Could do the thor intake if you want to get more engine space.

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Kittrell said:
Awesome, thank you! I'm wondering if you could put a 90 on the tube to point the filter (a skinnier one) more towards the original snorkel and then cram an ARB compressor to the right.
But then you'd just be like everyone else.
Click to expand...

Is your washer bottle relocated or still in stock location? I do have a ARB compressor I could test fit in there and see if it fits. Its the one for lockers though, not sure what size you're trying to run.

Ha, yeah but I'd have more power!
 
Kittrell said:
Bottle will be relocated, looking to run the single pump compressor which is pretty similar in dimension to the locker compressor. So that would give me a rough idea.
Click to expand...

Cool, let me dig it out and I'll try to fiddle with it today and send you a pic.
 
Kittrell said:
Bottle will be relocated, looking to run the single pump compressor which is pretty similar in dimension to the locker compressor. So that would give me a rough idea.
Click to expand...

Here ya go. More space that I anticipated. Could easily fab a bracket to get a solid mount. Just couldn't hold the compressor and take a decent picture. Guess only down side would be extra heat in that box from the compressor.

dtvo2ktl.jpg
 
So it is generally a PITA to work on the 4.7L in a WJ? I've been toying with the idea of picking up a 4.7L HO WJ for a while now, but one thing that concerns me is that working on the 4.7L motor could be a hassle. I don't have any plans for significant upgrades, but it looks like no one should rule out having to replace the heads on that motor. I forget whether a dropped valve seat results in a valve collision with the piston. Not sure what other items I might have to tackle - probably the basics like plugs, water pump, coils. Do these things develop leaky pan gaskets and failing CPS like the 4L?
 
smokeyyank said:
Here ya go. More space that I anticipated. Could easily fab a bracket to get a solid mount. Just couldn't hold the compressor and take a decent picture. Guess only down side would be extra heat in that box from the compressor.

dtvo2ktl.jpg
Click to expand...

Thanks! It looks absolutely tiny in there. I think the only time that thing would put out real heat would be under sustained load while airing up tires. In which case you are't driving so I expect it would be a nonissue. If you 90'd and ran that long skinny filter you could probably even run a small heat shield between the two.
 
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maxbraketorque said:
So it is generally a PITA to work on the 4.7L in a WJ? I've been toying with the idea of picking up a 4.7L HO WJ for a while now, but one thing that concerns me is that working on the 4.7L motor could be a hassle. I don't have any plans for significant upgrades, but it looks like no one should rule out having to replace the heads on that motor. I forget whether a dropped valve seat results in a valve collision with the piston. Not sure what other items I might have to tackle - probably the basics like plugs, water pump, coils. Do these things develop leaky pan gaskets and failing CPS like the 4L?
Click to expand...

It's not an incredibly easy engine to work on but I would say the things that are the biggest pain in the ass are rarely needed. Oil pan gaskets on these don't fail anymore than anything else. Mine is completely dry at 84,000 miles. But the valve cover gaskets like to leak from the back and removing the valve covers is unnecessarily difficult. Especially on the passenger side as the heater core hoses run over the top, there is a large chunk of wire harness in the way and you have to remove the oil filler neck. Then anything to do with the exhaust manifolds are an exercise in patience but not something most people will have to mess with. Things like spark plugs, coils, injectors are pretty accessible.

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maxbraketorque said:
So it is generally a PITA to work on the 4.7L in a WJ? I've been toying with the idea of picking up a 4.7L HO WJ for a while now, but one thing that concerns me is that working on the 4.7L motor could be a hassle. I don't have any plans for significant upgrades, but it looks like no one should rule out having to replace the heads on that motor. I forget whether a dropped valve seat results in a valve collision with the piston. Not sure what other items I might have to tackle - probably the basics like plugs, water pump, coils. Do these things develop leaky pan gaskets and failing CPS like the 4L?
Click to expand...

I bought mine with a bad engine from a dropped valve seat at 160k. Yes it results in contact with the piston. When they fail it's not cheap just FYI. I spent about 6k on my rebuild with R&R, but I also replaced a lot of items. You can be proactive and replace the heads a pin the seats so it's not an issue. That's the biggest killer of these engines. It's not the easiest motor to work on but most basic maintenance items are fairly accessible expect a few things by the far wall that are an absolute B. I've pretty much replaced everything under the hood. 4.0 better to work on but the 42re is absolute trash of a transmission. Plus the 4.0 is a slug in a WJ.
 
Kittrell said:
Thanks! It looks absolutely tiny in there. I think the only time that thing would put out real heat would be under sustained load while airing up tires. In which case you are't driving so I expect it would be a nonissue. If you 90'd and ran that long skinny filter you could probably even run a small heat shield between the two.
Click to expand...

True, I run a CO2 tank for tires and outside that would jsut be locking on trails so low air flow anyways. There's a good amount of room and if you relocate the washer you have some room to mess with sheet metal. There's some space between the filter and pump too so doable for sure.
 
smokeyyank said:
I bought mine with a bad engine from a dropped valve seat at 160k. Yes it results in contact with the piston. When they fail it's not cheap just FYI. I spent about 6k on my rebuild with R&R, but I also replaced a lot of items. You can be proactive and replace the heads a pin the seats so it's not an issue. That's the biggest killer of these engines. It's not the easiest motor to work on but most basic maintenance items are fairly accessible expect a few things by the far wall that are an absolute B. I've pretty much replaced everything under the hood. 4.0 better to work on but the 42re is absolute trash of a transmission. Plus the 4.0 is a slug in a WJ.
Click to expand...

Thanks Kittrell and smokeyyank. Proactively rebuilding the heads sounds like a good idea. Yeah, I can't fathom how Jeep decided to put the 4.0 in a vehicle that's a solid 500 lbs heavier than an XJ.
 
Well a month ago I pulled the intake to get access to the heater inlet tube on my 5.7 commander after putting it back together it still leaks as it turns out the Chinese don't do superb machine work and the bore on the new pump is the source of the leak ...After putting the intake back on with new gaskets and new throttle body,new coil packs and plugs the jeep ran like shit undrivable prior to taking off the intake it had occasional loss of throttle which cleared if you let off the gas clearing the lightning bolt . Codes were die cam and crank sensor ebay sent wrong parts so I bought at O'Reilly's that cleared the codes but still ran like shit two more codes IAT and map I found a broken wire on the iat and ordered a replacement pigtail and sensor. I temporarily wired it to get rid of the code and put on a new map the new map cleared up most of the issue but the red lightning bolt was now flashing constantly and jeep had low power. Working with 3 hours only each Sunday today I finally found the looses wire in the weather pack of the map plug ...lol...now I ordered a new plug and can finally get back to attempting to make the heater tube leak free which if this HD red rtv don't do it it will mean buying a new NON CHINESE pump and doing that job again .
 
Tow rig and commander got new batteries. The commander lasted about 4 years was $185 from AutoZone in early 2019 so got 4 years out of it the two Walmart cheapies I bought I got about a year out of I had intended on buying agm that day but they were out of stock and only had their cheapies left ...waste of cash ... They hate heavy amp draw and need constant maintence of terminals and posts unlike agm. 3 batteries and $877 later ... Hopefully they don't shit the bed two months after their 3 year warranty like the last set .
 
1-tonxj said:
Tow rig and commander got new batteries. The commander lasted about 4 years was $185 from AutoZone in early 2019 so got 4 years out of it the two Walmart cheapies I bought I got about a year out of I had intended on buying agm that day but they were out of stock and only had their cheapies left ...waste of cash ... They hate heavy amp draw and need constant maintence of terminals and posts unlike agm. 3 batteries and $877 later ... Hopefully they don't shit the bed two months after their 3 year warranty like the last set .
Click to expand...

Holy crap. $877 for 3 batteries.
 
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