What are you doing to your rig - the continuing saga

Started mocking up my belly pan and traction bar this weekend. I love how the pan turned out, although I may need to trim for the driveshaft. Also got the exhaust thrown back on.





Why have the axle side hanger mount so low?

From reading, the traction bar seems to work best on the passenger side of the axle, but with the exhaust there, I like how you did yours.

That skid is baller, but needs more dimpled holes and plastic :bigpimpin:
 
Why have the axle side hanger mount so low?

From reading, the traction bar seems to work best on the passenger side of the axle, but with the exhaust there, I like how you did yours.

That skid is baller, but needs more dimpled holes and plastic :bigpimpin:

I'll agree that the location of the hanger for the traction bar is one of those arguable points. Since we're not looking to harness big HP or Torque, I say keep the traction bar and bracketry on the axle above the axle tubes. Seems negligible if the bar is controlling push or pull leverage.

I do not agree that there'd be any benefit to putting the traction bar to the right or the left of the pumpkin.

Nope, no more holes. Holes just grab rocks. The point of a skid plate is to slide over the object, not grab it.


As usual, nice work Bryson! :thumbup:
 
It looks like the traction bar is set up for a second arm for the top, at least the axle end bracket is there. Maybe upward axle travel hits something when mounted on the top.
 
It looks like the traction bar is set up for a second arm for the top, at least the axle end bracket is there. Maybe upward axle travel hits something when mounted on the top.

I imagine the bar isn't finished. The upper link will likely be welded to the lower link like such:

cruiserclscout-014-jpg.314185
 
I'll agree that the location of the hanger for the traction bar is one of those arguable points. Since we're not looking to harness big HP or Torque, I say keep the traction bar and bracketry on the axle above the axle tubes. Seems negligible if the bar is controlling push or pull leverage.

I do not agree that there'd be any benefit to putting the traction bar to the right or the left of the pumpkin.

Nope, no more holes. Holes just grab rocks. The point of a skid plate is to slide over the object, not grab it.


As usual, nice work Bryson! :thumbup:
The idea of having the bar on the passenger side is thats the side that moves up in the back. Thats whats suggested anyway, what happens in reality is another thing.

Im guessing the turbo is what caused the bracket to made the way it is, more power= more separation. As a certified web wheeling engineer, I would have had the lower mount level with the bottom of the axle tube. Less angle on the traction bar and better clearance. Sure its close to the diff, but I always seem to hit everything on the trail with my axles. I drive by braille!


The dimpled holes get covered in the plastic sheets. Less weight, stronger than flat sheets, and more bling bling.


Regardless, as Yella said, very good work!
 
The idea of having the bar on the passenger side is thats the side that moves up in the back. Thats whats suggested anyway, what happens in reality is another thing.

Im guessing the turbo is what caused the bracket to made the way it is, more power= more separation. As a certified web wheeling engineer, I would have had the lower mount level with the bottom of the axle tube. Less angle on the traction bar and better clearance. Sure its close to the diff, but I always seem to hit everything on the trail with my axles. I drive by braille!


The dimpled holes get covered in the plastic sheets. Less weight, stronger than flat sheets, and more bling bling.


Regardless, as Yella said, very good work!

Thanks guys! I mentioned this in my build thread...

As for the traction bar location, I agree with Mopar in that the general rule of thumb is to try and have it on the passenger side. However, there are a lot of other factors involved. For one, the bar is a little over 3' long (longer the better IMO). This allows the chassis to have more "power" over controlling the axle VS the wrap affecting the chassis. Also the bar is roughly ~8" from the chassis' center line compared to say 20" on some other builds. This will also reduce the tendency for torque lean, as well as helping protect the DS.

In other words, the bar probably won't lessen torque lean, but it shouldn't really make it worse either.

Simply limiting axle wrap and DS protection are my only goals with this bar. I've already killed a set of leafs and pinion bearings due to severe wrap.

A plastic lower skid will be going on but most likely later on

The mount is actually just a standard ballistic fab tab set I've had laying around for while now. The bar is low and close to the driveshaft in hope that it will help protect it.
 
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I imagine the bar isn't finished. The upper link will likely be welded to the lower link like such:

cruiserclscout-014-jpg.314185


what kinda funky nine inch 3rd is that? no pinion support bolts?
 
Its an Eaton axle... I think. Well actually could it be a Toyota? It looks offset to the pass side. What I really like is the upper shock mounts are held on by 2 tiny bolts. Sturdy!
 
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I took the head off because I was loosing small amounts of coolant. I had some weeping from the lower end gakets and the head shop was going to take a little bit of time, I thought I'd go and change the bottom end gaskets while I wait for the head.
 
Got my rear axle and suspension swapped last weekend. Hope to get the front done this weekend. Will be a fun little jeep once this part is done. 92, AW4, 3" lift, locked front and rear, 4.56 gears (not much highway driving), 31s Cooper ATPs, JCR t case skid, plenty of other goodies too.
 
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