What are you doing to your rig - the continuing saga

[SeeingSpots]

Started the deconstruction of my 89'. Tore all of the armor, bumpers, sliders, and interior pieces off. Then came the cage. What a pain in the arse that was! To their credit, whomever installed the cage originally, did tie it into the subframe and welded plates to the bottom of the body as well. With a plasma cutter, it still took me almost 3 hours to remove it. I cut it in half and then removed it in two large pieces. Poor Jeep. I almost felt guilty cutting it to shreds.

 

[D.W.Tim]

Added about 200 lbs or so to old Taz in the form of sliders. 2x8x1/4 with 2x2x1/4 piggy backed with 10ga sheet to the frame. I still need to weld the frame area more, the rear in the fender area and the sheet metal under the doors. For some reason I can't get the Dual Shield wire to go low enough on heat to weld it. :dunno:

Got her home last night and smacked my leg on the new steel, can you say charlie horse? :rof:

 

[DutchVDub]

Started the deconstruction of my 89'. Tore all of the armor, bumpers, sliders, and interior pieces off. Then came the cage. What a pain in the arse that was! To their credit, whomever installed the cage originally, did tie it into the subframe and welded plates to the bottom of the body as well. With a plasma cutter, it still took me almost 3 hours to remove it. I cut it in half and then removed it in two large pieces. Poor Jeep. I almost felt guilty cutting it to shreds.

Why the tear down?

Added about 200 lbs or so to old Taz in the form of sliders. 2x8x1/4 with 2x2x1/4 piggy backed with 10ga sheet to the frame. I still need to weld the frame area more, the rear in the fender area and the sheet metal under the doors. For some reason I can't get the Dual Shield wire to go low enough on heat to weld it. :dunno:

Looks good.

 

[SeeingSpots]

Why the tear down?

It had rusty floor pans, cracks around the trackbar mount/rear shackles, and the wiring was a hacked fire hazard. I could have fixed it all, but it's the law of diminishing returns.

Got a 98' for a song, we're swapping all of the running gear over.

 

[COjeeper]

Started the deconstruction of my 89'. Tore all of the armor, bumpers, sliders, and interior pieces off. Then came the cage. What a pain in the arse that was! To their credit, whomever installed the cage originally, did tie it into the subframe and welded plates to the bottom of the body as well. With a plasma cutter, it still took me almost 3 hours to remove it. I cut it in half and then removed it in two large pieces. Poor Jeep. I almost felt guilty cutting it to shreds.

Digging the spray foamed rear quarters. Must be a new sound deadening technique. :laugh:

 

[SeeingSpots]

Digging the spray foamed rear quarters. Must be a new sound deadening technique. :laugh:

That's exactly why they did it. And to "seal" all of the rust holes in the wheel well.

 

[eflores]

Just bought the truss to stuff 44 in my two door...
$456 hurts but installation should be painless

 

[COjeeper]

That's what I like to hear!

 

[SolarBell]

Mental note for later - when a driveshaft has a bad slip joint and the centering ball is out too, it's cheaper to get a new one made.

 

[freerider15]

Mental note for later - when a driveshaft has a bad slip joint and the centering ball is out too, it's cheaper to get a new one made.

Depending on who you have make it

Replaced most of the CV on my former rear (now front) drive shaft. Wasn't too bad.

 

[freerider15]

Really really really hoping to hear my engine roar again this weekend...then let it run followed immediately by turning on my shop fan and exiting the garage as the exhaust wrap burns in and the wrong paint on my headers burns off

 

[COjeeper]

Added about 200 lbs or so to old Taz in the form of sliders. 2x8x1/4 with 2x2x1/4 piggy backed with 10ga sheet to the frame. I still need to weld the frame area more, the rear in the fender area and the sheet metal under the doors. For some reason I can't get the Dual Shield wire to go low enough on heat to weld it. :dunno:

Got her home last night and smacked my leg on the new steel, can you say charlie horse? :rof:

Looks good! :thumbup:

 

[SolarBell]

Depending on who you have make it

Replaced most of the CV on my former rear (now front) drive shaft. Wasn't too bad.

Driveline Specialists in Commerce City is building me an all-new cut to length drive shaft for $320, and another next week. They came highly recommended by Crawlertech4x4. I'm replacing my front and rear shafts since they are both bad. I need a longer rear one since I'm switching from a 242 with a wobbly H&T SYE to a 231 with a real SYE.

 

[freerider15]

Driveline Specialists in Commerce City is building me an all-new cut to length drive shaft for $320, and another next week. They came highly recommended by Crawlertech4x4. I'm replacing my front and rear shafts since they are both bad. I need a longer rear one since I'm switching from a 242 with a wobbly H&T SYE to a 231 with a real SYE.

Yup, good guys to do business with.

Haven't ever done any personally...but know many that have.

Would have gone with them if I hadn't won a $200 gift cert to High Angle Driveline. Rear Drive shaft still cost me $300 or so to my door...but it is H.A.D. after all.

 

[kastein]

Mental note for later - when a driveshaft has a bad slip joint and the centering ball is out too, it's cheaper to get a new one made.

Yep... or do what I do, go to the junkyard and buy another. :laugh:

Driveshafts are $30, I have one go floppy or seize up like every 2-3 years.

I cave one in on rocks often enough that I'm not willing to spend big money on a new custom shaft, maybe I should just learn to drive instead.

 

[SolarBell]

Yep... or do what I do, go to the junkyard and buy another. :laugh:

Driveshafts are $30, I have one go floppy or seize up like every 2-3 years.

I cave one in on rocks often enough that I'm not willing to spend big money on a new custom shaft, maybe I should just learn to drive instead.

My luck with JY parts lately is less than positive. I just want some vibration free driving for a while, especially if I decide to test the supercharger a little.

 

[SolarBell]

Trunk full of goodies from today and yesterday.

 

[freerider15]

Das Buggy Runneth!!! :firedevil

 

[adrenalinepirate]

Nice Doug. IRO uppers?

 

[1-tonxj]

Yep... or do what I do, go to the junkyard and buy another. :laugh:

Driveshafts are $30, I have one go floppy or seize up like every 2-3 years.

I cave one in on rocks often enough that I'm not willing to spend big money on a new custom shaft, maybe I should just learn to drive instead.

I did make one shaft out of an old double cardan drive shaft it seemed to not vibe when I tested it , so I put away as a spare . but if it's trail only balance is not real important . I got a tomwoods and a drivline specalties shaft ...LOL...neither are any better than taking a stock double cardan and cutting it and tubing it to your needed length since they use the same spicer joints , and that's if they use spicer parts ...lol...some don't use that quality .