What are you doing to your rig - the continuing saga

semi related to the alternator issue

made a battery hold down to keep my new battery in place. it is bolted on the stock place at the bottom of the tray,and i added a tab to bolt it to the rad support. welded a tab on to keep the battery from sliding into the hood latch and shorting out. and used 2 pieces of small angle to secure the battery . so all in all a good deal. used junk i been packing around in my tool box for near ten years LOL.
i have pic but cant post. does the pic have to be hosted elsewhere before i can post it by link?

thanks


G:clap:
 
anyone have any experience with the Dixon-Bate tow jaw recovery point?
i like things simple and this is one. thinking of incorporating one or two of these on my truck.
https://www.expeditionexchange.com/dixonbate/DSC09640.jpg


DSC09640.jpg
 
Last edited by a moderator:
electrical gremlins in the WJ continue... now the sunroof is stuck open. motor has power, as it will move a little bit (2-3 inches) both forward and backward, but it won't close. Sheesh.
 
anyone have any experience with the Dixon-Bate tow jaw recovery point?
i like things simple and this is one. thinking of incorporating one or two of these on my truck.
https://www.expeditionexchange.com/dixonbate/DSC09640.jpg


Those will only be as strong as the bolts holding them and/or the material the bolts are anchored to/through. They stick out far enough that a side pull would appear to put a pretty good amount of leverage on the bolts.

Not ideal.
 
electrical gremlins in the WJ continue... now the sunroof is stuck open. motor has power, as it will move a little bit (2-3 inches) both forward and backward, but it won't close. Sheesh.

Does the motor still have power when it stops, is it bound up, or cutting out?
 
I think it has power -- you can hear the "click" when you depress the switch, but then again there is no grinding or hum of a motor, it just doesn't move more than a couple inches either way (open or closed) :dunno:
 
You hear this click when you push the switch after it's stopped? Or when you first push the switch?
 
just when I first push it -- that said, the motor is a really quiet one, I can barely hear it run when its working. No "click, click, click" like a stripped gear or something... I'm guessing my motor is kaput, which sucks.

I probably just need to figure out a way to get the f'r closed, before the blizzard sets in...
 
I found a reference to a relay in searching this morning, and the article I found said it was under the hood... I'll be damned if I have a relay labeled "sunroof" or similar in mine... :dunno:

Edit -- I think I found it... its the "accessory delay relay", under the dash, not under the hood as described online. I'll check it out this evening after I get the new alternator put in :looney:
 
Last edited:
they are intended to be mounted with pin in the vertical plane. i dont see it as too different than d rings on any bumper as well. the bumper/ring holders are only as strong as what it is bolted to. and full frames and unibody frames are not that thick.i think it's best strength is a straight pull, but also a side pull should be fine. i dunno just pondering a dirt simple way.


Those will only be as strong as the bolts holding them and/or the material the bolts are anchored to/through. They stick out far enough that a side pull would appear to put a pretty good amount of leverage on the bolts.

Not ideal.
 
they are intended to be mounted with pin in the vertical plane. i dont see it as too different than d rings on any bumper as well. the bumper/ring holders are only as strong as what it is bolted to. and full frames and unibody frames are not that thick.i think it's best strength is a straight pull, but also a side pull should be fine. i dunno just pondering a dirt simple way.
ya but a front bumper usually has at least 10 bolts holding it to two frame rails.
a hitch is connected to both frame rails as well.
what can that be connected to that is strong enough to withstand a good tug?
like you said, individually and in one spot frame rails are not substantially strong. But when the load is dispersed over a larger area the overall strength is high.
 
I found a reference to a relay in searching this morning, and the article I found said it was under the hood... I'll be damned if I have a relay labeled "sunroof" or similar in mine... :dunno:

Edit -- I think I found it... its the "accessory delay relay", under the dash, not under the hood as described online. I'll check it out this evening after I get the new alternator put in :looney:

Yeah, this link labels the fuse to the accessory delay relay as "Sunroof."

http://www.wjjeeps.com/fuses.htm
 
I'm gonna cut her.

Rocky has some clearance issues when she gets really really flexed out I found out @ Moab... I'm doing away with the fender flares and I'm gonna cut her up. What tool should I invest in to cut the fenders after I yank the flares? High speed air saw? Grinder with a cut off wheel? I was also thinking of doing the rear cut n' shut, taking the bumper corners off and maybe cutting the corners of the front bumper @ an angle... All I have is a little angle grinder and I don't think it's gonna handle this stuff.
 
i always do/make things to spread the load--a sound practice on frames and stuff like that. makes your stuff last longer :)

ya but a front bumper usually has at least 10 bolts holding it to two frame rails.
a hitch is connected to both frame rails as well.
what can that be connected to that is strong enough to withstand a good tug?
like you said, individually and in one spot frame rails are not substantially strong. But when the load is dispersed over a larger area the overall strength is high.
 
Back
Top