What are you doing to your rig - the continuing saga

Hit with some PB-blaster.

Although mine was on a spare engine, even putting it on the running engine was a pain. I still had to use a pry bar to hold the bit in place.

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I did haha used alot of PB on it actually. and i dont have a problem keeping the bit on at all. I just cannot get it to break loose. neither me or my friend has been able to.. i believe the ball of my hand is now bruised from it all.
 
And now i have found out that there is a freaking roll pin inside the adapter that keeps it from rotating. I guess from my research the only thing i can do is break the roll pin and leave the half that breaks in the block were it is
 
The roll pin stays put. Once you get the center part unscrewed, the housing comes off the roll pin.

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well i got it with the two wrenches. Since im not at home I've pretty much started from scratch with tools so didn't have a cheater to use, its a pretty basic set up right now.

anywho got it replaced, whats funny is I read alot from people saying there was red locktite on it and that's why its so hard to get off. I didn't see any it was just smoked on there+16 year old jeep that has never had the darn thing replaced. I decided the adapters NEW name should be the pick jar adapter cause it took three people to take a wack at it before it just kinda popped loose nice and easy haha
 
Well it seems to me like your math was just a hair off. Wouldn't you expect newer gear that is meant to sit taller to sit taller...u still have the old shackles?

Well, going from a 3" long shackle to a 5" long shackle should only net 1" of lift. 3" lift spring + 1" of lift from shackle = 4". Supposedly. Yes, I still have the old shackles and they're going back on.
 
I got a little busy this last week. Put in new 5 degree steel shims with center pins(the old ones bit it when the shims spit out on Chinamans), painted the rear leaves with graphite paint, put in new pads on the leaves where they were missing,
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replaced a u-joint on the front driveshaft and installed it, tweaked the castor and the toe in. It drives much better. Very little vibes from the rear even at highway speeds, not too much from the front, though I haven't had it up to speed with the front driveshaft in just yet. Getting ready for snow, just a drizzle so far here. :)
 
In my continuous quest to rid the heep of vibes, I tried out a suggestion from Flores and Led and shimmed up the t-case at the tranny mount. Made the vibes worse. Since 3/16" up made a noticable difference for the worse, I took out those shims, and shimmed down the cross-member .14". It may have helped, definitely no worse than no shims on the cross-member.

Then I got ambitious, and pulled the cover from the D-44. The tera-locker works somewhat similar to the axle disconnect on the older cherokees. It has a fork that moves a collar which slided the pins in to lock the diff. I adjusted the position of the fork on the pin activated by the pneumatic plunger. It took a couples of trys, but I seem to have a working locker again. :)
 
Hmm, the third built WJ in the group. I think we need to enter one in the rig of the month contest. :)
 
Hmm, the third built WJ in the group. I think we need to enter one in the rig of the month contest. :)
NICE! DO IT!!


BTW Fred, that issue I explained....I fixed it...


Get this garbage, the adjuster for the rear. Was the wrong one. It allowed me to adjust brakes LOOSE not tight. I was trying to adjust them and was just making problem worse. No friggen clue how the eff that worked like that. But the grooves locked opposite direction. CRAZY

But now the brakes are awesome and parking brake works....woo hoo.


Also got some paint application completed.
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