What are you doing to your rig - the continuing saga

Damn near anything in the frontend can cause deathwobble. A steering damper will not fix it. It will only weaken it or hide it, and it WILL come back when either the damper wears out somewhat, or the suspension gets looser and the damper is no longer enough to cover it up.
Just wanted to reiterate this part
 
Correct Hydro wont fix anything. But It is a hell of a lot harder to move than a "shock" Keeps the front end pretty motionless, unless you give it the input.
 
I hate REM. :cheers:
 
it being off center, probably isnt the problem. the problem was the fact that your stock track bar was probably worn out and had some slack, which causes death wobble. been there, done that. it sucked.

Stock track bar was in great condition. It wasn't the fact it was worn out, it was that the short track bar was pulling my axle to one side of my rig (or pulling my rig to one side of the axle).
Death Wobble is the axle forcing the body to move side to side, or the axle to move side to side.
 
another DW discussion... :rolleyes:

Riddle me this.
Damn near anything in the frontend can cause deathwobble. A steering damper will not fix it. It will only weaken it or hide it, and it WILL come back when either the damper wears out somewhat, or the suspension gets looser and the damper is no longer enough to cover it up.

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Basically, your suspension is theoretically equivalent to a pendulum, ... frequency dropping far enough that the suspension only experiences that frequency at low enough road speeds that deathwobble is more of a shimmy that only happens a few times before dying out (overdamped.)

in before "what's the frequency, Kenneth?!"
:yelclap:
 
Moving on...

Bushwhacker Flat Flares and a set of Rock Lizard Custom built (had to clear the LA mounts) Rock Rails going in. Leaves only a Winch to add.

Notice I said a wInch, not a wEnch. I have a wEnch and most certainly do not need/want another one.

That being said, I will gladly trade my wEnch for a good wInch. I'll even chip in the first month maintenance casts...
 
After 12yrs and 205,000+ miles the Audi's alternator finally quit. Its only making 11.8v and thats not good enough. Its been sent off to the oven's and a new one will be in shortly.

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It wasn't bad at all. It took me about 3-3.5hrs with eating dinner and going to the parts store twice. AllData calls for 3.3hrs. I guess I did pretty good.

The trick I've found to working on these things is to just go 1 step beyond "service mode." I just swing the A/C condensor over, disconnect the group of wiring connectors, the hood latch cable, and the headlight wires. Those few extra minutes allows me to take the entire radiator/ bumper support assembly off. Makes getting to stuff a million times easier.
 
its very common actually on higher mileage vehicles switching to sythetic.

I put Rotella 15/40 HD diesel motor oil in my Jeep. Thats stuff can't escape. :D
 
It's interesting, after I switched to Mobil 1 I started having oil leaks. I wonder if there is any connection or is it just that the XJ is getting old...

Anyone else experience this?
If it didnt seep it would be odd. Very very very common to leak oil after going to full synthetic. Now that you have gone full synthetic tho. you need to stick with it. Going back to a blend or conventional is even MORE likely to cause heavier leakage. You dont want a case of the drips lol.

Did you do mobil1 or amsoil engine treatment prior to the switch? I dunno about mobil1 but amsoil recommends the use of their engine "cleaner" to be added for a few hunred miles prior to swap to full synthetic. Helps clean out some junk and supposedly preps the seals/gaskets......
Not sure how well it actually works on cars/trucks, only ever used on bikes, but imagine the results are similar :dunno:
 
Depends on what you are doing and what you want to accomplish. I think for most vehicles, in most applications, a good synthetic blend is just right. You can still mix in conventional if the ya are in a bad spot...you can reasonably go 5-7.5k miles (as long as vehicle isnt falling apart and losing all the oil) between changes. Biggest thing is if its a newer car, run what the manual says, failure to do so can void warranties
 
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