Welding Table Height
- Thread starter Rodimus
- Start date
jdogg4
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Evans Colorado.
Mine is around 40" I think. I don't like bending over and this puts stuff right above that point so I don't find my self all that hunched over welding and grinding on stuff. I have a different frame that I'm about to bust oout a new bench if I can afford the plate for the top of it that is.
ColoradoRaptor
Headbanging Hillbilly
- Location
- Canon City, Crawlorado
If you are going to build it then you should have it at the most comfortabe working height for YOU!!:dunno:
swbooking
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Riverside/Running Springs, Ca
ColoradoRaptor is correct, the table should be set up so your not bending over to weld. It should be in the most comfortable position for you.
jdogg4
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Evans Colorado.
BINGO build it to your liking. Mine has casters for it but I'm boing to use some large stud bolts so that even if it's on a uneven floor I can level it out like a one does with a camper on all 4 corners.
5-90
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Hammerspace
What do you like as a height for a workbench, and what do you plan on welding on it (mostly?)
I've built my workbenches to above belt-buckle high on me, but I'm a knuckle-dragger. Most people like them to come somewhere between the belt buckle and their navel. This will allow you room to work on larger projects, not have to bend over to reach smaller projects, you can use power tools that are mounted on the bench, and it's all fairly easy.
If you're going to work on taller stuff, make the bench proportionally shorter so you've not got your hands stuck up in your face. If you're consistently going to work on smaller stuff, you make the bench a little taller - so you can see it and reach it.
Honestly, the only one who can really decide how tall a bench needs to be is you. You can get input, but only you are going to be able to decide if you can work comfortably there.
As an ergonomicist (I've designed office furniture for people, workstations, and I've got quite a few happy clients,) I know this to be so. You have the final say - so make sure you're in a position to say it.
If you get adjustable feets, make sure of two things: 1) They're rated for the sort of load you're going to put on them, and 2) you're only going to get an inch to an inch and a half of adjustment out of them anyhow.
I've built my workbenches to above belt-buckle high on me, but I'm a knuckle-dragger. Most people like them to come somewhere between the belt buckle and their navel. This will allow you room to work on larger projects, not have to bend over to reach smaller projects, you can use power tools that are mounted on the bench, and it's all fairly easy.
If you're going to work on taller stuff, make the bench proportionally shorter so you've not got your hands stuck up in your face. If you're consistently going to work on smaller stuff, you make the bench a little taller - so you can see it and reach it.
Honestly, the only one who can really decide how tall a bench needs to be is you. You can get input, but only you are going to be able to decide if you can work comfortably there.
As an ergonomicist (I've designed office furniture for people, workstations, and I've got quite a few happy clients,) I know this to be so. You have the final say - so make sure you're in a position to say it.
If you get adjustable feets, make sure of two things: 1) They're rated for the sort of load you're going to put on them, and 2) you're only going to get an inch to an inch and a half of adjustment out of them anyhow.
5-90
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Hammerspace
Rodimus said:
As long as you're building it, built it for you.
If your sleeve is within an inch of your inseam, go with the belt buckle to navel range. If your sleeve is more than one inch less than your inseam, you'll be better off up near your navel. If your sleeve is more than one inch more than your inseam, belt buckle or lower should do (I think my benches are about an inch and a half below my belt buckle - I've got a 36-inch sleeve, and a 31-1/2-inch inseam.)
- Location
- Golden, CO
What they said + make it adjustable.
Plan on putting a shelf underneath? Make it sturdy enough to roll a floor jack under, pull some pins and incrementally shorten or lengthen the legs to suit the work.
Plan on putting a shelf underneath? Make it sturdy enough to roll a floor jack under, pull some pins and incrementally shorten or lengthen the legs to suit the work.
Stang5lgt
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Parker, CO
36 in kitchen counter height. Bathroom sink is about 33
jdogg4
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Evans Colorado.
For the HD adjustable part use some large threaded rod. We have these flange studds and mine are 1-1/4 round and 8" tall. each one comes with two nuts. weled one nut out on the leg and the other nut to the allthread. Then just use a wrench to adjust the height of the table and if nothing else help level it out being most garage floors are sloped a bit to the front of the garage and all.
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