Vibration when I let off the gas.

[T&A-XJ]

"I was just about to chime in and say that the first and second opinions sure needed a lot more experience....6" lift with stock ds? Without a CV ds and SYE, you WILL have vibrations. Mute issue now....you know better.

I have the RE Hack and tap kit. No problems or leaks after 4 years. However, I am a littel disapointed in my 6 States Dist CV driveshaft. The CV joint wore out after less than 20K miles. I have heard that Tom Woods makes the best driveshafts (he used to work at 6 States). You should also check with a local driveshaft shop. They will most likely be able to buid you a custom one for about the same price as anyone else. In reality, there is nothing really custom about them except length."

...and shaft diameter, and wall thickness, and spline shaft diameter, and spline length, and boot, and type of u-joints...

It would be interesting to find out the actual wall thickness ect of a RE or TW shaft compared to a stock exhaust pipe drive shaft...I suppose I could search and find out.

DS shops around here charge about double of that of a RE or TW! Just make sure you get a serviceable CV and actually service it....mine didnt last a year without service(could never find the stupid zerk adapter) and it was a Spicer.

 

[ECKSJAY]

It would be interesting to find out the actual wall thickness ect of a RE or TW shaft compared to a stock exhaust pipe drive shaft...I suppose I could search and find out.

Thunk vs. 'ting' when you set them on the workbench tells me the TW is better. LOL They're not much different in feel from a stock front shaft, but the splines in the slip are a lot better...as are the slip yokes. Until I snap/crackle/pop the front DS I'm using in the rear, I won't spend the money on one.

DS shops around here charge about double of that of a RE or TW! Just make sure you get a serviceable CV and actually service it....mine didnt last a year without service(could never find the stupid zerk adapter) and it was a Spicer.

Man, no doubt. Aukeen right up the street from us charges about double for the same thing TW builds...and still probably not as nice. Besides that, I've also heard the old man there is a PITA to deal with.

Not sure what RE is using, but TeraFlex offers shafts now too. They're literally (straight from Tom's mouth) Tom's basic shafts.

 

[hotrod22]

Quote "Until I snap/crackle/pop the front DS I'm using in the rear, I won't spend the money on one." You can use a front cv shaft in the rear? Isn't it alot weaker? Don't you have to lengthen it?

 

[ECKSJAY]

Quote "Until I snap/crackle/pop the front DS I'm using in the rear, I won't spend the money on one." You can use a front cv shaft in the rear? Isn't it alot weaker? Don't you have to lengthen it?

Yes, on certain configurations it's possible to use a particular front DS in the back with a SYE. I'm not going to go any further as this issue has been covered several times. I used the forum search function to find all the info I used to do it.

 

[aparke4]

i had the same problem and it was worse with an old set of thrornbirds...i got my procomp mud terrains and that took most of the vibs out b/c they ride a hell of a lot smoother...then took my jeep to my local driveline shop and they gave me the 760.00 $ fix! ("custom driveshaft", new u joints, yokes etc the whole 9 yards) check and see if your tires are balanced as well and that you are not riding on flat spotted bias ply tsl thornbirds...

 

[aparke4]

oh yeah i have a SYE kit with the 231 and a dana 44...one of probs though with the 33 to 35 was the length of the shaft... make sure a driveline shop checks lenghth...sorry this was added i just saw the title

 

[XJ_ranger]

Not sure what RE is using, but TeraFlex offers shafts now too. They're literally (straight from Tom's mouth) Tom's basic shafts.

RE uses "Driveline service of sacramento" driveshafts...

when i ordered one from RE when i was living in CA - they told me to pick it up there...

no relief valve in the slip joint area - pumping it full of grease blows the cap off... and I killed their front shaft in 5 months... (but that was entirely my fault)

I got spicer yokes and spicer 1310 u-joints from them

was un-happy with the lack of relief on the slip joint section...

here is my discussion of the difference between my stock front shaft and my RE shaft:
http://www.opiebennett.com/upperdrrveshaft.htm

 

[hotrod22]

Well... I got my AA SYE on last weekend and took stock front dual-cardan XJ shaft from the salvage yard to my local driveline shop and had it lengthened, and VOILA! No more vibes!!! The shaft cost $50 from the salvage yard and then $129 to lengthen and add Spicer 1310 u-joints(also bead blasted/painted). As far as the SYE goes, I would not even consider NOT removing the transfer case to do this, but that's just me. The hardest part of the install was removing the transfer case, installing the kit was a piece of cake. Thanks for the info guys!!!

 

[John90XJ]

It would be interesting to find out the actual wall thickness ect of a RE or TW shaft compared to a stock exhaust pipe drive shaft...I suppose I could search and find out.

Hey Tim...when I brought the remains of my stock shaft in to Tom's shop in Moab, Shawn showed me the material they would build my new shaft from and it was twice the thickness of the stock tubing. He turned down the diameter of my components to fit the new smaller i.d. tube.

H

 

[VegasAnthony]

Well...As far as the SYE goes, I would not even consider NOT removing the transfer case to do this, but that's just me. The hardest part of the install was removing the transfer case, installing the kit was a piece of cake. Thanks for the info guys!!!

did the directions tell you to remove it??

not neccesary

 

[hotrod22]

Ok... if I had a lift, where I could comfortably get to everything, then I would try it. Mostly, I just prefer to have something on the workbench, easier to me.

 

[nhrocker]

I plan on getting the PORC one when I can afford it easier and have someone to help install it, but I still plan on doing it in the vehicle. I'm lifted though(hence needing the SYE), so it's a little easier to get under my rig now. :laugh3:

I haven't ever worked on a Tcase before, so I'm a little apprehensive about it and am hoping to get help from someone who's done it already.