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U-Joint Questions

Faz95XJ

NAXJA Forum User
Location
VA
Should be any easy one here....

Hoping to stock up on trail repair parts.

I have a 95 XJ, D30/D35 with the 4.0 and ABS.

I believe the u-joints on the front axles shafts are the no-longer available 5-297X ones which can be replaced with 1310s, Is this true?

Also, the stock u-joints for the front driveshaft, are these able to be reaplced with 1310s.

I recently replaced the double cardon joint on my rear driveshaft (powerdrive shaft installed with my lift kit) and used 1310s for those, but did not replace the u-joint at the rear axle. I'm assuming that the rear axle u-joint is also suitable for replacement with a 1310.

Ideally, they are all the same and I can carry a few 1310s and be covered.
 
In my experience, when a front axle u-joint gives up, it usually takes the "ears" with it...which means a replacement u-joint won't get you going again. You're better off carrying spare shafts.

I think the front axle u-joints are available. While driveshaft u-joints might be a reasonable trail spare, again...if the u-joint fails, will the ears still be usable? I've busted a rear DS u-joint once...and the ears were toast...a replacement u-joint would not have helped.

I think you're over-thinking spares...take a spare outer for the front (in case you blow one) and call it good. You can always make it out with front-wheel drive (maybe with some help from your trail buddies).
 
The replacement part # for the 297x is spicer part# 5-760x

Flyfisher was correct about front ujoint failures taking out the yoke ears. Fortunatelu replacement shadts are not much more than just a new joint
 
The basic "Chicken/Egg argument".

I think you will find that in most cases, with OEM shafts, you will find that it is not the u-joint failing, but the shaft ear distorting, allowing the cap to spin, chuck the clip, then the cap. Failure of all components (shafts, and u-joint) follows shortly after. If you are lucky, it stops there. I have seen the lower ball joint separate in that condition, especially if the wheels are turned, and that is just a PITA to deal with on the trail.

Interestingly enough, I have seen fewer failures of the old 260 joints, mainly because the ears are heavier.

U-joint =$22
Both inner and outer shafts = $150
Knowing the limits of your equipment, and not exceeding them = Priceless
 
Thanks for the replies.

On a recent trip, the front axle shaft on another rig lost the u-joint -- think the cap busted, but the shafts themselves were fine. This is where I got the idea for the spares. I actually have some outer front shafts (need to get the inners), but like the idea of simply replacing the entire shaft if there is an issue, much easier than swapping the u-joint on the trail.

I'm hoping to pick up replacement/spare front and rear DS to include the yokes on the xfer case and the axles ..... probably overkill
 
Should be any easy one here....

I believe the u-joints on the front axles shafts are the no-longer available 5-297X ones which can be replaced with 1310s, Is this true?

Also, the stock u-joints for the front driveshaft, are these able to be reaplced with 1310s.

I replaced my driveshaft U-Joints with 1310 Spicer.
 
XJ D30 axle shafts use either 5-260x or 5-297x u-joints. 5-760x and 5-297x interchange.

XJ Drive shafts use 1310 u-joints.

If you are going to carry spares, and you should, carry D30 axle shafts. If you have a D35 you should carry spare shafts for it.

If you mangle a D30 u-joint, pretty much consider the axle shaft junk and replace it, as the u-joint yoke ears are probably stretched and it will spit out any new u-joints.
 
By the way, the typical Spicer part number for the 1310 joints is 5-153X. I replaced one today, so it is super fresh on my mind.

My spare parts thinking on hard runs is:
Assembled front shafts - inners and outers with joint. Being able to slide the broken stuff out and good stuff in is priceless! Spare rear shafts and a ready-to-go rear driveshaft. I carry an axle joint and a couple of DS joints just for good measure, as there has been more than once that a fellow wheeler needed one. The are light and small - no harm in having them.
 
with a d30 i highly sugest running a shaft/hub already assembled for super quick swaps on the trail, fix can be done 10-15mins, as far as driveshafts never ran with spares on the steet driven rig i dislike the extra wieght and stuff in the jeep, the new trailer queen does have spare driveshafts that stay in the tow rig
 
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