• Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

U bolt eliminators

bmyohn said:
another plus is the ability to move the wheelbase 1" forwards or back

Well I am all for the UBE's, but any quality aftermarket perch can be had with 1" front/rear centering holes also.
 
If you can't make that mount stay on the axle, you should give up welding. I Do not have them, nor will I be buying them. I do think they are a good idea. Plenty strong, and will work. I don't think you will see one person with them say they are bad. To say they could pull off the axle is the same as saying my link mount could pull off my axle. I gave up with leafs and went coils in the rear of mine. It was just my choice.
 
For the guy worrying about the welds, wouldnt the same thing be said for the uper and lower control arm mounts that are WELDED onto your front axle? What if all of those welds break? Dude, you need to hold one of these things in your own hands and see how wide they are and how much weld surface you actually have. You will twist your axle tube in half before these things ever think of coming off.
 
I cant believe there's 65 posts about the safety of welding 1/4" plate to an axle tube.... pretty sad, maybe we should move this thread over to Jeeps Unlimited?

OR, better yet start it in Jeep Hardcore Tech on Pirate...
 
rosco said:
You lost me there, ladder bars?

To keep you from wrapping your springs.I use this one with 1.5" blocks.If I go to the TNT ube's, I'll use the same setup.

original.jpg
 
cloudswimmer said:
To keep you from wrapping your springs.I use this one with 1.5" blocks.If I go to the TNT ube's, I'll use the same setup.

original.jpg

Do I need this? I will be running 4.88's
Can you show me how it mounts on the frame end?
Where would I get this, and how much?
 
I wonder if I could integrate a mount onto The TnT belly Skid? You say i probably wont need it but im just thinking out loud. Whould the pivot point need to be inline with the TC output yoke or does it matter?
 
rosco said:
Do I need this? I will be running 4.88's
Can you show me how it mounts on the frame end?
Where would I get this, and how much?

Well its definitely something to consider.The 1.5" ube is pretty much the same as a block.The front is a johnny joint and shackle welded to a currie cross member.I got all my ladder bar parts from http://www.sams4x4store.com

original.jpg
 
uncc civilengineer said:
Some call it a traction bar.... some ladder bar... maybe he was confused... It's not really needed until you're crawl ratio gets pretty low IMO... OR you start breaking things..

I personally saw my my RE springs start to wrap while watching my brother drive my rig in the rocks near Johnson Valley.I freaked out and immediately went to work on the ladder bar when we got home.I run 4.56, a detroit, and 33x12.50 MTR's.Again the lift is a 5.5" Rubicon Express short arm kit with ACOS in front, and 1.5" solid steel blocks in the rear.

I'm swapping in a 33 spline chromoly detroit locked D44 with 4.88's, and either the TNT ube's or my current blocks and steel degree shims tacked to the blocks, and I will definitely be swapping in my ladder bar.
 
One thing to consider though is the width/length of your block does not compare to the width/length of the UBE... Blocks will definetly add to wrap.. the UBE's not necessarily.

There's no way I'd run tack welded shims to blocks ever...
 
uncc civilengineer said:
There's no way I'd run tack welded shims to blocks ever...

Why not?I know several people who do, who run desert SW trails (jack hammer, sledge hammer, suprise canyon, etc) and hammer hard with out a problem.Glen Wakefield of Rocky Road Outfitters actually sells his ultimate lift blocks with the specified degree shim if needed welded on.Also TNT's ube's are not significantly longer enough to negate axle wrap when 1.5" is used, and you're running hard in the rocks.I'm talking TNT's not home made.I've seen more than one post on the net of people complaining of axle wrap with TNT's 1.5" ube.
 
sjd78 said:
Hell I just wish I could find a 1" lift spring perch instead of these UBE's.

That would be exactly the same as a block lift.
 
cloudswimmer said:
Why not?I know several people who do, who run desert SW trails (jack hammer, sledge hammer, suprise canyon, etc) and hammer hard with out a problem.Glen Wakefield of Rocky Road Outfitters actually sells his ultimate lift blocks with the specified degree shim if needed welded on.Also TNT's ube's are not significantly longer enough to negate axle wrap when 1.5" is used, and you're running hard in the rocks.I'm talking TNT's not home made.I've seen more than one post on the net of people complaining of axle wrap with TNT's 1.5" ube.

I know RR sells the "ultimate" lift block or something like that... and they're is superior and safer to other lift blocks because they're solid 1/2" welded together... Yeah safer than Aluminum but a steel lift block is a steel lift block.. Also it's 2.5" wide..seems just a bit narrower than the TNT UBEs.


What you said that I didnt get was the fact that you said shims "tacked" to the blocks... that's somewhat different than completely welded together. In any case there's no comparison to a 2.5" wide x 1.5" tall sloped lift block and the TNT U-bolt eliminator's... If you held both in your hands it's easy to see which is better/safer, etc...
 
uncc civilengineer said:
I know RR sells the "ultimate" lift block or something like that... and they're is superior and safer to other lift blocks because they're solid 1/2" welded together... Yeah safer than Aluminum but a steel lift block is a steel lift block.. Also it's 2.5" wide..seems just a bit narrower than the TNT UBEs.


What you said that I didnt get was the fact that you said shims "tacked" to the blocks... that's somewhat different than completely welded together. In any case there's no comparison to a 2.5" wide x 1.5" tall sloped lift block and the TNT U-bolt eliminator's... If you held both in your hands it's easy to see which is better/safer, etc...

I have the RR's now, and tack was just my shorthand for weld.I'm just curious what the huge width on the ube's do?What does that have to do with wrap?My blocks are as wide as my perches and never budge.I'm very close to giving the TNT's a try however, but I'd really like to hear from some who've run them out hear in the So.Cal. desert rocks for a while before I commit.
 
cloudswimmer said:
I have the RR's now, and tack was just my shorthand for weld.I'm just curious what the huge width on the ube's do?What does that have to do with wrap?My blocks are as wide as my perches and never budge.I'm very close to giving the TNT's a try however, but I'd really like to hear from some who've run them out hear in the So.Cal. desert rocks for a while before I commit.

First, the width isnt doing a thing for axle wrap...the length does... I was just referring to the "beefiness" of them.

Just curious but what's the difference with your mostly dry desert rocks and our rediciously slick wet rocks around here? I dont know what I'd do if I tires would just grip and go... I digress...

I think if you break down and spend the coin for them you'll be happy... plus I'll sleep better tonight... just kidding
 
WaXJ_Skier said:
That would be exactly the same as a block lift.

To some degree yes, and so are UBE's to some degree. A lift spring perch would be the same as running the UBE's except you would just be running U bolts. And the perch can be made longer to combat axle wrap as most aftermarket perches are as well as off set the stretch or decrease wheelbase and weld on to correct pinion angle which a block does none of these.
 
cloudswimmer said:
I have the RR's now, and tack was just my shorthand for weld.I'm just curious what the huge width on the ube's do?What does that have to do with wrap?My blocks are as wide as my perches and never budge.I'm very close to giving the TNT's a try however, but I'd really like to hear from some who've run them out hear in the So.Cal. desert rocks for a while before I commit.

The only thing the width does is allow for the use of bolts instead of U bolts. They have to be wider to allow for those bolt holes.
 
Back
Top