Turning XJ D30 knuckles?

[Root Moose]

Not sure if this should be here or in Mod Tech. Figured more people with real experience would see it here.

I've finally started polishing my turdy (HP D30, 4.56, ARB, WARN 5 on 5.5", WJ knuckles/brakes).

As I was sand blasting the housing last night in prep for welding on a truss I was looking at the part of the tube where the inner Cs are welded on. The driver's side knuckle is tight against the spring mount. May be 2"-3" of clearance at most?

I'm going 5" of lift (DPG Hybrid) and run a 242 t-case. I'm worried about caster-vs-vibration in the front end. I need/want full-time in the winter so it's an issue for me.

It looks like it is going to be a big PITA to rotate those knuckles if I have to once the Jeep has settled on the fresh springs.

Can someone give some insights into how I can get a grinder disk in there on the driver's side to grind off the welds?

Is there a better tool to use?

Technique?

Cut off the spring pad/bucket, rotate then weld back on (ugh! not fun!)?

Much ado about nothing?

EDIT: I should add, I'm asking now because I figured it would be better to "crack" the knuckles now and set the caster once the Jeep is on it's wheels again.


T!

 

[XJ_ranger]

well, if you have a die grinder, a dremmel and a ton of time, i think you can get to the knuckle and leave the spring pad where it is... but maybe now is the time to take care of pinion angle too?

talk to Remmi AKA Kejetar - he was doing this... i aslo think that Kid4lyfe has a fully polished turd...

maybe rotate all the brackets - for pinion angle and for castor as well...


another option is offset ball joints - your local alignment shop should know what i am talking about...

 

[Root Moose]

I spent a little "quality time" under the XJ this afternoon. After looking at the LP that currently sits in the Jeep and looking at the HP on my bench, I think I'll leave the knuckles where they are. Between the moderate amount of lift and the change in pinion height there may only be a net difference of a few inches or so (fingers crossed). The front shaft is pretty long so it should tolerate it (toes crossed).

Between the spring pad and the sway bar link there is just no room to manoeuvre in there. I can't see being patient enough to use a Dremel...

I'll keep the offset balljoints in mind. Had forgotten about that.

T!

 

[BrettM]

as mentioned, offset balljoints would be the easy way out, but I think you can only get 2 degrees out of them.

You may be able to grind the knuckle weld around the spring-pad much easier if you had a 7" or 9" angle grinder. Or possibly even getting the axle in a 14" chop saw.

 

[Root Moose]

Hmm, I do have a 14" chop saw but not certain if I trust myself to use that for this... maybe if I came up with some kind of a stop for the downward travel.

Put the TJ housing and HP housing I have side by side. I think I'll wing it for now.