Truly the Best Bar Pin Eliminators? How can so many companies screw these up????

[clean4drxj]

why not just use JKS or something similar? if you are worried about breaking bolts you should use anti seize on them(its what I do).

 

[CartsXJ]

Before I put my shock hoop. I just cut some angle into brackets, drilled a couple of holes and bolted everything up. Nothing fancy, but for less than $15 at Tractor Supply and some time with a cut-off wheel and drill I had my own BPE in the rear.

 

[DrShaggford]

I dont know why most of you have such a problem replacing the stock bolts( I do understand why you want bpe's though). I just helped my friend lift his jeep and snapped all 4 bolts. Only took about 20 min to drill out and put in grade 8s....something that might help you out is to get a left hand drill bit 1/4 inch I believe it was....if your lucky it will bind up and back the bolt piece out...if not it only takes about 2 min to drill it all the way out.


Sent from my SGH-T959 using Tapatalk

 

[NW-ZJ-SCOTT]

Well, the rear bolts, as someone already suggested... BREAK all the time... not to mention one bolt is better than two when you have to work in a "half sit-up" position to work on the underside of the rig!!!

Plus, the front two bolts are a pain to wrench off.... I don't know about you, but i find plenty of reasons to remove my shocks within only 1 year's time, much less 5 years!!!! I mean, i check my shocks regularly, and always seem to be needing to drop an axle for one reason or another!

I think there is one HUGE factor that makes my opinion different then yours..

Rust, I dont have rust, none.. i have had two 89 XJs, and Two ZJ's.. Never had a rusty bolt problem.. Hence why i feel the JKS BPE's and Shock stud Eliminators are 100% perfect for the job:wave:

 

[KSXJ]

For the rear I really like this setup
http://www.quadratec.com/products/16030_1100.htm

 

[brianglawson]

I Love that crossover shock mount!!!

nw-xj-scott: actually, My jeep is pretty darn clean underneath!! but I work to keep it that way. And actually, my bolts did not break on my rig(98), but my wife's 2000 had all 4 break off! It took me about 30 minutes with a 5/16 drift punch, a box end wrench, and about 2 foot of 20 gauge(doorbell) wire to fish four new, grade 8 bolts in. It is a HUGE pain to get a wrench in the crossmember to get to them, so I use the BPE's (even though on hers i used IRO rears that rotated... oh well, Monroes arelifetime warranty )

I want Bpe's because they are easir inevery aspect to live with, AND they preload and get rid of the annoying Bar Pins


clean4doorxj: READ, JKS done do anything but preload bushings, and marginally extend length.


Since Ive ordered BPE's, I'd really love to seem some of your guy's front shock hoops!!!, i dont like the idea of just welding tabs o the sheetmetal, even though it's probably fine... But shock hoops would be nice and beef!

 

[Gravesdiggerxj]

buy a grinder and a welder. build your own. post pictures.

 

[Tom_T&Js_Offroad]

i was not happy with the price-to-quality ratio of the barnett/t&j mounts... heres a pic to show you why... really? 3 peices, welded together instead of a bent peice? and if the directions say to weld it on, why does it come painted with thick bedliner type paint??

first reactions were: this is simple... i can make these next time...
second reaction was: i can do better than this actually...

we didnt make them out of 1 bent piece because they would not fill the entire area. if we were to bend a "U" shaped piece of metal the top of the front facing part of the mount would not contact the upper part of the shock pocket. that would mean you would need to fill about 1/4" up with welds. we painted them because its not 100% necessary to weld them in but it is highly recommended. so for the people that dont weld they are painted for them.

first reactions were: this is simple... i can make these next time...
second reaction was: i can do better than this actually...
if you can build them better than good for you. but some people either cant or just want to buy some

 

[Darky]

we didnt make them out of 1 bent piece because they would not fill the entire area. if we were to bend a "U" shaped piece of metal the top of the front facing part of the mount would not contact the upper part of the shock pocket. that would mean you would need to fill about 1/4" up with welds. we painted them because its not 100% necessary to weld them in but it is highly recommended. so for the people that dont weld they are painted for them.

first reactions were: this is simple... i can make these next time...
second reaction was: i can do better than this actually...
if you can build them better than good for you. but some people either cant or just want to buy some

I, for example, will be buying some soon to replace my JKS upper shock mounts that keep coming loose.

 

[brianglawson]

Darky: thanks for reaffirming my anti-JKS bpe(epecially the rear uppr)...haha I love JKS products, all i hve encountered have been made super well, and the BPE's im sure are too, but they are just a bad, quirky design

 

[Darky]

I'm still running the lower BPEs up front, no complaints there, except that I need a vice/big clamp to reinstall them. The upper shock conversions keep coming loose around the actual shock. I have tighten them regularly or they make a bunch of noise.

 

[dhodgee]

buy a grinder and a welder. build your own. post pictures.

+1 agreed.

 

[muddeprived]

I had both JKS and Full Traction BPE's. I like em both but em both equally after installing a sye and clocking the rear axle. When you clock it, the passenger shock mount angle changes causing the angle of the shock to change, which makes it difficult to bolt up a pre-loaded shock mount.

Normally the upper shock bolts will break so you will have to replace them anyways and not using a grade 8 replacement bolt would be kinda stupid. Even if your bolts don't break, you still should replace em with grade 8. So once you have the grade 8 bolts there, they won't ever break again so using a JKS BPE won't be risky down the road.