Transmission Cooler Line Quick Disconnect Retrofit Qs

[Fryphax]

I have a 96 Cherokee, 4.0/AW4/242 That has a bad leak from the forward Transmission Cooler line Quick Disconnect. The Line had actually broken off in the old quick Disconnect, so I purchased Dorman Part #800-714 However this didn't include any means of sealing the hard line to the QD.

I also am running into the problem of my hard line being a wee bit to short which may be why I still have a leak with the new QD and flared line.

My question is this - Does anyone make a 14mm x 1.5 to Barbed end fitting? I want to run a short length of hose from the Transmission to the old hard line. I've read a lot of threads about people doing this in the middle however I have only been able to find information from Stu's AW4 swap.

I would like something like this, but with a flared/barbed fitting instead of the -6an fitting.

Also Has anyone used this to replace the quick disconnect on the Transmission side? I'm not sure if it will work so some feedback would be helpful.

Thanks in Advance!!

 

[Jeepm@n]

My friends 93 had the same issue with the QD. We removed the fitting from the radiator and put a brass barb on there. We then put a piece of rubber tube that fit over the barb and tubing. On the tubing side we put 3 hose clamps and the barb side one. There is not as much pressure as most people think with a trans line. I think this fix is easier and cheaper then what your trying to do.

 

[wolfpackjeeper]

barb fitting and at least 2 hose clamps is where it is at.

I got a 1991 Laredo for 250 bucks cause the guy thought the tranny was bad. I did this fix and had it running 30min after I bought it. The funny thing is it was in immaculate condition, the guy came to me to sell it. More money than sense I guess.

 

[Fryphax]

Well thanks for the input guys, the barbed fitting is exactly what I want to do! The information I am trying to find is a Part number or manufacturer of the fitting.

 

[Daedalus454]

I did approximately the same thing, sans the barbed fitting. I just cut the metal line from the tranny just a bit past where the rubber line crimps on, and installed a piece of transmission cooler hose from NAPA. I overlapped the hose by about 2" and I used two hose clamps, no leaks, no seepage, and no problems for ~10,000 miles.

 

[Fryphax]

Thanks again for the input, the problem I have is that the leak is at the quick disconnect and I need someway to affix the rubber hose to the output of the transmission. There is no existing line for me to hose clamp it on to, hence the search for a 14mm x 1.5 to 3/8" barb fitting.

 

[wolfpackjeeper]

go to advance auto, they sell them individually and they are around .50c each. get the three closest ones and figure out which one fits. And i think it will be an NPT fitting not a normal turn and thread one.

 

[my2monkeys]

I think your talking about the rubber trans line from hard line at front of oil pan to radiator, about 18 inches long w/quick disconnects at both ends? Or if not a Q/D at hard line side, the rubber line is swedge fit (crimped) on to hard line. My fix was to hack saw crimped fitting off hard line, disconnect quick disconnect (easier said than done). That leaves you with 2 hard lines with about an inch and a half of barbless surface to clamp up some new rubber trans. hose with 2 hose clamps on each.

 

[5-90]

I think your talking about the rubber trans line from hard line at front of oil pan to radiator, about 18 inches long w/quick disconnects at both ends? Or if not a Q/D at hard line side, the rubber line is swedge fit (crimped) on to hard line. My fix was to hack saw crimped fitting off hard line, disconnect quick disconnect (easier said than done). That leaves you with 2 hard lines with about an inch and a half of barbless surface to clamp up some new rubber trans. hose with 2 hose clamps on each.

Slip the hose over the hardline by 2-3 inches, and apply a light bead of RTV on the outside of the hardline before sliding the hose on. Use two clamps, spaced 1/2" apart or so (yes, the pressure is "residual". No, you still don't want it to leak. Overkill, in this case, is cheap.)

Why do this? Because the cut hardlines aren't "beaded" to properly seal to a rubber hose. So, give it a little help.

A tubing cutter works best to cut these things short. If you use a hacksaw, put some time into deburring (using a Dremel with a cutoff wheel will work better, but you'll still need to deburr. A hacksaw cut on tubing is just plain ugly...)

 

[my2monkeys]

10-4 5-90, I meant to suggest to cut the aluminum crimping off the rubber line, then try to peel it off at hard line. Thus, keeping hard line length intact, but pipe cutter is a way better way to go, seeings how you can add as much rubber hose as needed.

 

[wolfpackjeeper]

i used a double flare tool to expand the tip of the hard line just a bit. made it a touch harder to get the line on, but it never leaks either

 

[5-90]

i used a double flare tool to expand the tip of the hard line just a bit. made it a touch harder to get the line on, but it never leaks either

An acceptable afro-engineering technique for a hose bead in a low-pressure hardline. Not something I'd want to use over 10-15psi, but it should work for residual pressure (like in these cooler lines.)

 

[wolfpackjeeper]

dont get me wrong, I still double clamped it, with fuel injection clamps no less. This was also on the truck a guy sold me for a song.

 

[5-90]

dont get me wrong, I still double clamped it, with fuel injection clamps no less. This was also on the truck a guy sold me for a song.

Oh - I'm not, and I'm not arguing! I've done the same thing myself when I've had access to a flaring tool - it's just that most people don't, which is why I described the other way to do it.

I take it by "fuel injection clamps" you meant the ones that have the band inside so the hose doesn't get pinched? Capital idea - just not always readily available...

 

[Fryphax]

I think your talking about the rubber trans line from hard line at front of oil pan to radiator, about 18 inches long w/quick disconnects at both ends? Or if not a Q/D at hard line side, the rubber line is swedge fit (crimped) on to hard line. My fix was to hack saw crimped fitting off hard line, disconnect quick disconnect (easier said than done). That leaves you with 2 hard lines with about an inch and a half of barbless surface to clamp up some new rubber trans. hose with 2 hose clamps on each.

I think I'm not talking about any existing rubber trans line. This is where I've run into problems searching too, everyone assumes your talking about some point mid line. For the record - I know about cutting and splicing in rubber hose mid line! - It will not solve my problem though.

I am looking for a part to replace this:

With something like this:

Thanks for the help everyone, I'll check at Advanced auto tomorrow and if I find something that works I'll post up the item number for future reference.

 

[5-90]

If there is enough material; just cut, drill, and tap. You should be able to get 1/4" NPT without any real trouble, and probably 3/8" NPT as well.

That was how I did my first conversion to use -AN lines, only I had the early fittings. So, I ended up going to Toyota (the AW4 is a Toyota box anyhow) and getting cooler line fittings for a mid-1980's Supra - which did have the material to cut/drill/tap.

Then, you can also use a right-angle NPT to hose barb fitting, and bring your lines in a little tighter as well.