Transfer case linkage check, please.

travisk

travisk

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Fullerton, CA
Can someone with an NP231 crawl under their XJ and verify that I have the transfer case linkage set up properly? Mine looks like this. I'm concerned about the upper link as the angle looks strange and it keep popping it out of 4H.

Xj_tcase_linkage.jpg
 
I have a non-stock shifter, so looking at mine wouldn't help any.

However, looking at the FSM diagram I would say the upper rod is installed correctly.

Have you tried adjusting the shift linkage per FSM?

Most people have problems with the TC pulling out of 4LO.

If properly adjusted per FSM, and the problem persists, you might consider repositioning one end of the rod to reduce that angle--just make sure and check clearances/function.

There is an upgrade "kit", but that was for a shifter rattle issue, part no. 5014148AA at Morris 4x4, cost $13.99.
 
Last edited:
Thanks. I will check the FSM, but I'm pretty sure I adjusted the linkage correctly already by putting the shifter and tcase in 4LO and tightening the adjustment bolt.

My first tcase got destroyed by popping out of 4WD a few months ago. I'm on my second one, and it just popped out again on while bouncing around on some rocks. Something is up with the linkage.
 
Is it possible you're not fully engaged during you're adjustment?
 
scottmcneal said:
What does your motor and trans mount look like?If they are crap it will help with it poping out of 4 low.I should mine did.
Click to expand...

New motor and trans mounts. The trans mount was swapped out after I toasted the first tcase.

I also should mention that the skid plate for the Rough Country long arm kit drops the tcase a little bit.
 
Try this:

(Pain in the ARSE)

Locate some dirt. Remove the lower rod. Manually shift the transfer case into 4LO--water pump pliers work great--test drive. No problems, then manually shift into 4HI--test drive--no problems then it is the linkage, likely the misalignment with the TC drop not helping.

IF it is the linkage, you have some options--in order of cost:

Solid or Cable shifter from NOVAK Off Road--two options--$159 to $169.

Advance Adapters TC shift bracket--requires a couple pieces from a TJ to work on the XJ--$38.33.

SEARCH--there are a number of online articles on DIY mods using all-thread and rod-ends, they usually require moding the shift tab on the TC.
 
So I took a closer look at the shifter and discovered that it doesn't seem to sit in the 4H position correctly if I'm coming from 2H. Every time it has popped out, it's after I go from 2 to 4. I can pull it all the way back, but that's where it settles.

The linkage was adjusted from 4L. Maybe I should adjust it from the correct 4H position instead?

Xj_np231_shift_problems.jpg
 
It does look a little odd, but I've never had one working aside from the one I've never looked at (stock) and the one I hacked together from a pile of scrap stock parts I had lying around and a welder. What I see odd about yours is how far the chassis end of the bellcrank appears to be pulled out of the bushing it rides in, and how the worn spot is so far out from what it would wear against. Perhaps your trans mount is worn out or your transmission is somehow shifted about 3/4"-1" to the passenger side?
 
kastein, I had wondered about that.

I am using an offset transmission mount that ends up pushing the transmission out towards the passenger side. Maybe I'm supposed to be using the centered mount?

67775-lg.jpg
 
That's the factory mount for an 87-99 you have a picture of, it matches mine perfectly. What crossmember are you using?

For 00 and 01 they changed to a centered one and changed the crossmember to match iirc. If you have a crossmember from one year range and a mount from another it may explain it, or if you have the crossmember on backwards or the mount on backwards (which shouldn't even be possible if your crossmember came off an automatic.)
 
Hmmm. I'm honestly not sure - would have to compare the crossmember dimensions to a stock crossmember to say if that's your issue. But I wouldn't be surprised if it's either at fault, or contributing to it.

The upper rod does look a bit tipped to one side, though I'm not sure how much of a problem that is. Thinking about it a bit, I would think you would want an imaginary line passing through the axis of each bushing the linkage clips into to be exactly perpendicular to the bellcrank axis to minimize the degree of slop the bushings introduce into the system, but... I'm a wiring nerd, not a mechanical engineer, so I'm sure someone will come along and explain why that's wrong shortly :dunce:
 
It looks to me like he has his facing the wrong way relative to the stock one he's comparing to, since the front of the new crossmember with the LCA mounts is pointing down while the stock crossmember has the depression for the exhaust on what would be the driver side rather than the passenger side. But that's a possibility even so, I'm not sure if the bolt pattern is centered or if the mount is centered and comparing it with one flipped 180 degrees isn't very useful.
 
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