.. first ,please forgive this "newbie-mechanic-" question. Wondering if I should just take my ole transfer case to a local shop here in the midwest and pay them for some professional repair or attempt to do everything myself . I am planning to change the input gear and need some guidance and sage advice from some of the gear-heads out there on what and where to go with this transfer case rebuild .I have finally gotten my transfer case removed ,case-spilt and was wondering what exactly should I be looking/inspecting for ? How can I tell if I need to replace some internal item? Is there some simple "standard-kit" available for rebuilds that I can purchase ? I seen a drivetrain vendors advertise a "transfer-case-kit" which consists of various components,like,bearings,seals,etc. Is this a good cost-effiecent option ? As always ,comments,suggestions/advice welcome and please feel free to share your experience and advice.
transfer case inspection guide,..
- Thread starter BILLXJ
- Start date
ChuckD
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Kerman, CA
Well, if you can't figure it out, get a used case from the wrecking yard. If not, get a new HD case for just over $800. Don't waste your money on labor when there is about a thousand you can find at a yard.
- Location
- Bakersfield, CA
Having just put mine back together last night and installing it this morning, I'm real fresh on t-case stuff. Of course, I've had mine apart more than half a dozen times. Why did you tear it down, what were the symptoms?
If you just did it to replace/rebuild because it had lots of miles on it, I think the best way to go is to get a rebuild kit from JB Conversions. Also, be sure you have good snap ring and lock ring pliers......if not, go get them. The t-case itself is simple and straightforward to work on, just remember how it all came apart and which way things are facing. The JB website has a good schematic which shows all of the parts of the t-case, and the parts that are included in their various rebuild kits. The full kit is only $119, but the chain is extra if you want to replace it while you're in there. JB is cheaper than the dealer for an OEM chain.
Be careful when you split the case so you don't break the oil pump. There is a tube at the bottom of the oil pump that you need to let pop out of the hole it rides in before you fully seperate the case, otherwise it can break the edge off of that hole in the pump (don't ask me how I know)......a new pump is 40 some bucks. Remove the tailshaft housing before you split the cases so you can see the pump. The only bearing that's real hard to replace is at the back of the front output shaft, but this bearing has very little load and is always submerged in oil, so it probably won't need to be replaced. Everything in my case has been replaced other than that bearing. You'll need a pilot bearing removal tool to replace the bearing on the inside of the input shaft, but everything else is pretty easy.
I'd go for it, you can do it with basic mechanical skills, and if you ever get an SYE or 4 to 1, you'll know how to install it.
If you just did it to replace/rebuild because it had lots of miles on it, I think the best way to go is to get a rebuild kit from JB Conversions. Also, be sure you have good snap ring and lock ring pliers......if not, go get them. The t-case itself is simple and straightforward to work on, just remember how it all came apart and which way things are facing. The JB website has a good schematic which shows all of the parts of the t-case, and the parts that are included in their various rebuild kits. The full kit is only $119, but the chain is extra if you want to replace it while you're in there. JB is cheaper than the dealer for an OEM chain.
Be careful when you split the case so you don't break the oil pump. There is a tube at the bottom of the oil pump that you need to let pop out of the hole it rides in before you fully seperate the case, otherwise it can break the edge off of that hole in the pump (don't ask me how I know)......a new pump is 40 some bucks. Remove the tailshaft housing before you split the cases so you can see the pump. The only bearing that's real hard to replace is at the back of the front output shaft, but this bearing has very little load and is always submerged in oil, so it probably won't need to be replaced. Everything in my case has been replaced other than that bearing. You'll need a pilot bearing removal tool to replace the bearing on the inside of the input shaft, but everything else is pretty easy.
I'd go for it, you can do it with basic mechanical skills, and if you ever get an SYE or 4 to 1, you'll know how to install it.
,..thanks everyone and especially Goatman,this is the detailed advice that I need to proceed with some degree of confidence . I had earlier been looking and listening to some of the other drive-train vendors but now will be takeing a closer look at what the JB website has to offer.
-BILLXJ
-BILLXJ
THE_OWL
NAXJA Forum User
No Lie on the Chain. I get Jobber Price from the Dealer, and he quoted me $270!!! I told him I didnt need the gold plated version as I wasnt going to wear it around my neck.
I got a chain for my NP242 from National for $94 shipped.
Im on my second rebuild of my case.
With the SYE Ive noticed I have a 1/8" play on the output shaft( I can physically wiggle it up and down)but only in 2wd.
If it blows again its atlas time. Last time I got 500miles out of it. But it exploded because of the input shaft from the tranny, when the tranny went Nuclear.
I got a chain for my NP242 from National for $94 shipped.
Im on my second rebuild of my case.
With the SYE Ive noticed I have a 1/8" play on the output shaft( I can physically wiggle it up and down)but only in 2wd.
If it blows again its atlas time. Last time I got 500miles out of it. But it exploded because of the input shaft from the tranny, when the tranny went Nuclear.
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