Trans Cooler... has anyone experimented with....?

4. modified the ducting system again to divert (blow) cold air conditioned air over the heater core to add additional cooling power
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That would be the defroster setting.
 
My 97 has a factory transmission fluid cooler in addition to going through the radiator. It sits directly in front of the mechanical fan and has the lower transmission line which I am assuming is the return line looks like it was basically cut and routed through the extra cooler. I still under extreme conditions can overheat the transmission so I am thinking about getting a B&M cooler to replace the factory one to get a bigger cooler to be more efficient.

Jeepin.com has a pretty good write-up on putting in a transmission cooler.

http://jeepin.com/features/trannycooler
 
I know I saw a good writeup about taking two pans and welding the bottom of one pan further down on the original pan.

Anyone know where that is?
 
Not sure I would want one, I've managed to hit mine on a rock or two as it is :dunce:
 
Ok, so if it over heats and seeing the stuff you pack why not do a roof mount cooler? You can build a litter scoop over it and have a fan on the bottom side. That will cool it.
 
Ok, so if it over heats and seeing the stuff you pack why not do a roof mount cooler? You can build a litter scoop over it and have a fan on the bottom side. That will cool it.

Roof mount as in the cabin? I wouldn't want hot ATF running over my head, but that's just me.

Really I think that the OP's solution is a larger more effective cooler, deeper gears or a 5 spd swap.
 
Roof mount as in the cabin? I wouldn't want hot ATF running over my head, but that's just me.

Really I think that the OP's solution is a larger more effective cooler, deeper gears or a 5 spd swap.

Um...no, that wouldn't be IN the cabin. That roof rack would be a great place to mount something...lots of airflow, doesn't block the radiator, room for a fan...
 
I burnt the fluid in mine at Rausch a while back. It was even boiling over the fill tube and catching fire on the exhaust!

I installed a CSF 3 core and B&M stacked plate cooler at the same time. I placed the cooler right behind the grille, in front of the rad. More or less in front of the mech fan. I also run a temp gauge.

I noticed it ran much cooler on the aux cooler alone, so I completely bypassed the stock cooler. The hottest the trans gets now is when rockcrawling, and it still never goes above average.

I also flushed it with cheap ATF and trans tune after I burnt it. After 5000 miles I reflushed with royal purple and a new filter.
 
making a deep pan is a job and ahalf.i have been a welder for 13 years and i am not looking foward to that build.you cant kill a aw4.iv been beating on mine for 12years 6 on 36 now a year on 40s.and not every one has womans feet to go stick.i had one and big feet dont work well.gess there is money to be made in deep aw4 pans
 
I've killed an AW4, it lost all ability to stay in gear at all. Of course it was lurching a bit when I got it and I towed to New Jersey and back at 75mph in overdrive because I knew I was in for a tranny swap anyways.

My current one seems pretty unbeatable, I've run it dry a few times when it leaked all the fluid out, beat the crap out of it in general with 3.55s and 33s and it keeps coming back for more. That's with a stock 2-row copper radiator and no aux cooler. I whipped it pretty hard Saturday while snow wheeling and it barely hit 230 degrees.
 
The 4.0 or the AW4?

I'm pretty sure normal operating range of an AW4 is somewhere between 170-180*F?
The radiator hit 230, no idea what the AW4 itself or the engine did since both coolers are combined.

Still gotta install that temp gauge I have been planning for forever.
 
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