Mr.Bob
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Longmont, Colorado
I like the fact the the wiring isn't exposed to the weather when not in use.
Towing hitch hardware sizes
- Thread starter Mr.Bob
- Start date
I like the fact the the wiring isn't exposed to the weather when not in use.
Mr.Bob
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Longmont, Colorado
Hitch is installed.
Yes, it is necessary to remove the rear bumper and the bumper brackets to get access to the frame in order to install new nut strips. The stock nut strip on the passenger side is held in place with two rivets. The rearmost one can be accessed and drilled out with little fuss. The forward rivet is underneath the flange for the heat shield and flexible bracket for the tail pipe. Good luck with all that. It's not really necessary to remove the stock nutstrip if it's in good shape and you'll save yourself a headache if you don't. I'm just compulsive that way.
Once the new nut strips are in place installing the hitch is fairly straightforward. I bought Grade 8 bolts at the local ACE. You'll need 10 bolts if you're replacing both nut strips. The bolts (1/2" coarse thread) fit into the Morris nut strips loosely. I tried several different bolts and it made no difference so I was generous with the Loctite and used a cheater bar to slightly stretch the bolts. To get the hitch in place I sat facing the back of the Jeep with the hitch in my lap. I raised my legs and popped a bolt in each of the back holes on the nut strip and that held the hitch in place as I finished up.
When reinstalling the bumper note that one of the upper bracket holes is slotted. Pop that end on first so you can jiggle the bumper in place. Don't worry if the bumper isn't exactly centered, the vinyl end caps will hide that. I noted that I previously used a reaming tool to open up the countersunk hole for the front of the end cap so I could get a socket in there.
Ratcheted wrenches make this and many other jobs on the XJ a lot easier because of the confined work areas. This job is no exception and you'll be especially thankful if you have a 15mm ratcheted wrench as you fasten the upper bumper bolts.
I ordered a Reese plug and play wiring kit on eBay for 22.95 and shipping.
Yes, it is necessary to remove the rear bumper and the bumper brackets to get access to the frame in order to install new nut strips. The stock nut strip on the passenger side is held in place with two rivets. The rearmost one can be accessed and drilled out with little fuss. The forward rivet is underneath the flange for the heat shield and flexible bracket for the tail pipe. Good luck with all that. It's not really necessary to remove the stock nutstrip if it's in good shape and you'll save yourself a headache if you don't. I'm just compulsive that way.
Once the new nut strips are in place installing the hitch is fairly straightforward. I bought Grade 8 bolts at the local ACE. You'll need 10 bolts if you're replacing both nut strips. The bolts (1/2" coarse thread) fit into the Morris nut strips loosely. I tried several different bolts and it made no difference so I was generous with the Loctite and used a cheater bar to slightly stretch the bolts. To get the hitch in place I sat facing the back of the Jeep with the hitch in my lap. I raised my legs and popped a bolt in each of the back holes on the nut strip and that held the hitch in place as I finished up.
When reinstalling the bumper note that one of the upper bracket holes is slotted. Pop that end on first so you can jiggle the bumper in place. Don't worry if the bumper isn't exactly centered, the vinyl end caps will hide that. I noted that I previously used a reaming tool to open up the countersunk hole for the front of the end cap so I could get a socket in there.
Ratcheted wrenches make this and many other jobs on the XJ a lot easier because of the confined work areas. This job is no exception and you'll be especially thankful if you have a 15mm ratcheted wrench as you fasten the upper bumper bolts.
I ordered a Reese plug and play wiring kit on eBay for 22.95 and shipping.
hubs97xj
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Fort Wayne, IN
The reason the SAE hardware doesn't match the threads is that the factory nutstrips are Metric.
Mr.Bob
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Longmont, Colorado
The Morris nutstrips are SAE.
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