anybody here tow a automatic behind an RV? towing a manual is no problem, but an automatic poses some problems.. like steering wheel lock and starving the transmission rear bearing.
I towed my 95 auto tranny xj from salt lake city utah to phoenix arizona last month using one of the rv type towing set ups. its the bracket that mounts to the frame rail and has a mount for a removeable trailer tounge that sticks out infront of the bumper. I had no problems with this set up. I did modify the bracket though as i was not comfortable with the angle that it set against the frame rail (steep nose down angle) so i welded on a spacer and a plate to tie it into the stock tow hook brackets. this set up makes it stronger in my oppinion and gave me something to do in welding school.
as far as towing goes, i turned the key on just enough to unlock the steering wheel, put the transfer case in N and disengaged the parking brake. there was no ill effects and the transmission didnt turn, only the transfer case- which the rear drive shaft turns the pump so there was no chance of overheating it.
the wiring was a little more complicated as i had to use a diaode in the line to keep both the brake lights from lighting when the turn signals were activated. I kept blowing 12v diaodes so i went with a 50v and had no troubles. It was late at night and i hit a piece of road debris (went right under the middle of my truck not hitting anything on my truck) and destroyed my 4 flat connections. I was able to use the jeeps headlights to illuminate my work area and the flashers to warn other motorists durring repairs/ jerry rigging. that was quite a convienence versus just towing a regular trailer.
just make sure your tow vehcile can handle the weight- including stopping as the set up doesnt activate the xjs brakes. sway was a small factor but not too much. dont try to back it up due to the number of pivot points it will act similar to towing two trailers in line ( the hitch and the front steering make it act that way).
if you have further questions you can post up or pm me for more clarification.
I as well have an automatic 1995 4x4 XJ. Its last tow was from Portland Oregon to The Redwood National park California. It was a nonstop tow. We have Roadmaster hidden towbars on it and it did great. I followed the instructions in the Owners Manual for where to put the transfer case and the transmition. The transfercase in neutral and the Transmition in park. The key was left in the ignition in the on position to unlock the steering collom.
For lighting i am planning on installing Diodes but right now i have routed a pair of portable tow lights from the front of the car to the back to the lights. You just plug in and go. The only thing we had problems with on the lights were that the cable did pull straight and the connecter snapped off the RV (31ft Minnie Winnie 1997)
The only problem i had was the stopping distance nearly doubled for the rv so i'd be careful.
You might consider checking out the Teraflex "2 Low" kit. It is a relatively simple modification to your transfer case that does two things: 1) it provides rear-wheel drive only in the low range and 2) creates a "true neutral" position for the TC - good for flat towing. Good luck.
RB
on a auto you need to start motor, put t-case in nautral, then put trans in nautral, turn motor off an put auto in park, leave key in, do not remove.. Your off an running
I've read time and again that putting your t-case in neutral is not a good idea when flat-towing, as the neutral position locks together the front and rear driveshafts. If you look in the owner's manuals, they recommend removing the driveshafts for flat-towing. You might want to look into this some more, as I'm not sure which method applies to which t-case...
Whether the stock t-case has true-neutral or not depends on the t-case and year. My 89 YJ does NOT have true neutral in the NP231, my 94 XJ DOES have true-neutral in the NP231. The easiest way to find out is to check yours yourself.