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TOTM: Front control arms

I can validate that this is wrong or right easily! Who were you talking too?




Griffith has short arms with no drop brackets. Ray Currie says this is the only way to race an XJ. Worked for Griffith.

I forget his name or race number. He apparently had his back half of the cage fall out during a baja 1000 or 500 race...if that helps to identify any. I'm sure i'll see him at another vorra race soon. Shop is somewhere up here in norcal
 
I'm running Teraflex lower arms with modified (to be long arm) JKS adjustable uppers mounted to a custom built crossmember. I have about 2 1/2" separation of the frame ends of the arms. I initially used the Teraflex kit with the stock length uppers and had extreme brake dive. Since I lengthened the uppers there is no brake dive at all and it flexes as much as I need. Both sets of arms have rubber at the frame and heims at the axle end of the lowers. What would I change? It would be nice to get the frame end of the lowers up beside the frame on the inside of the rail but then I would have no separation unless I mounted the uppers inside the cab. I think it works just fine as it is so I will leave it alone for now.
 
For the short arm suspension: We run the stock control arms on the race truck - no bracing or reinforcement. (quit laughing, it's a BITD class requirement :rof: ) Interestingly, while we've taken hits hard enough to bend the track bar, and to warp the spring pad/bump stop area, bent the front axle truss, and generally tear up the truck we've never managed to damage a control arm.(What's really funny is we have a full set of spares we carry on the truck. :dunno: )

A lot of people make the assumption that the stock arms are weak because they will twist as the suspension moves. They miss the fact that the arms are supposed to twist. If you braced the arm enough where it wouldn't twist, all the play would be taken up in the bushings, and they would wear out and tear pretty quickly. Because of the geometry of the stock link setup, there has to be both fore and aft, and side to side play in the system. That's why the huge rubber bushings and twisty links.
Generally when you see someone with a broken passenger side upper control arm mount, you see the rig has solid one-piece link arms with hard poly bushings or heim joints. When you take all the play out of the system, the weakest link becomes the passenger side upper control arm mount. Which twists and flexes until it breaks off.

As long as you're not bashing rocks into the arms, the stock arms probably won't be the first thing to break.
I find this very interesting... and quite true.

On the other hand I managed to buckle a stock d30 LCA bracket partially on my stock MJ doing ~30 through a badly potholed and cratered (for here anyways, nowhere near jeepspeed level I'm sure) dirt road. LCAs were fine, but there was a definite bend in the bracket.
 
I find this very interesting... and quite true.

On the other hand I managed to buckle a stock d30 LCA bracket partially on my stock MJ doing ~30 through a badly potholed and cratered (for here anyways, nowhere near jeepspeed level I'm sure) dirt road. LCAs were fine, but there was a definite bend in the bracket.

The 1709 car broke a LCA at the last race and it was pretty beef from ??? suspension company.
I wouldnt trust a stocker without adding material.
Eric
 
The 1709 car broke a LCA at the last race and it was pretty beef from ??? suspension company.
I wouldnt trust a stocker without adding material.
Eric

It was a Rubicon Express arm but really since I would guess most aftermarket short arm lowers are 1.75" OD x .120 wall it could have happened to any lower. I blamed it on the driver.

And FWIW it's way easier to butt-weld a .120 wall tube arm back together and get a finish than it would be to try to fix a stamped-stock lower.
 
The 1709 car broke a LCA at the last race and it was pretty beef,...
Eric
...,but really since I would guess most aftermarket short arm lowers are 1.75" OD x .120 wall it could have happened to any lower.
I'd like a little more info on this if you don't mind. What happened? Did the arm bend and fail from a side/bottom hit, have a bushing failure, or did it separate in tension/buckle in compression from a fore/aft hit?(basically, I want to know so I can avoid the situation myself)
...,it's way easier to butt-weld a .120 wall tube arm back together and get a finish than it would be to try to fix a stamped-stock lower.
Absolutely 100% agree with this. Stock arms are pretty much a throw-away item if they're damaged. That's why we have a full set of spare arms on the truck, and a second set at the main pit when we run.
 
10mm ISO PC10.9 iirc. Not sure what thread pitch.
 
I'd like a little more info on this if you don't mind. What happened? Did the arm bend and fail from a side/bottom hit, have a bushing failure, or did it separate in tension/buckle in compression from a fore/aft hit?(basically, I want to know so I can avoid the situation myself)

The arm broke into 2 pieces on the passenger side. It was fairly dark outside but it looked like the arm had seen contact (stress-riser) but it was kinda hard to tell since it was in 2 pieces and I wanted to hurry up and weld it back together. Like I said, the manufacturer is pretty much irrelevent because .120 wall DOM under compression from one manufacturer to another isn't going to vary much and the part broke in the middle of the tube, not the weld.

Also FWIW the car has drop brackets for the control arms which puts the arms that much closer to the ground which, as mentioned, was possibly a contributing factor.

Chris
 
Sounds like a stock arm would have folded up like a taco.
 
So on a budget style build where a full long arm system is out of the price range, short arms, and drops are going to do me just fine then?

quick specs
4.5 re with rubber chassis side, super flex axle side, and re uppers. 3.5 springs with 1.75(possibly 1.5 not sure) shackles in the rear. fox 2.0 10in f+r.
 
sweet i just got my rcx drops in the mail today, hopefully will install them either this weekend or the following. Need to swap back my hp 30, the one I have in there now is leaking and its a lp, thought the diff was an issue a while back, it was actually the t-case.
 
In short arms and specifically stock arms what bushings are preferred?

I was thinking poly would be good because the arms could still flex like mentioned earlier and not wear out too quickly but would it put too much stress on the arms themselves?
 
I've never had a lot of luck with poly bushings. They don't so much wear out as get eaten up. They are a lot stiffer the rubber, which tightens everything up on the highway, but when you go off-road/lots of movement, they don't seem to last long. On top of that, I don't think anyone makes a stock-sized control arm poly bushing.
 
Seeing that we are talking about control arms and I just discovered today that my axle side UCA mount weld has failed, what are the recommendations for beefing it up?

I have RE short arms and drop brackets.

Reweld the bracket to the axle tube and gusset in the front or swap in the Currie Johnny Joint kit?

My rig sees mixed use of mild crawling, exploring and going as fast as my limited suspension will allow.
 
I've never had a lot of luck with poly bushings. They don't so much wear out as get eaten up. They are a lot stiffer the rubber, which tightens everything up on the highway, but when you go off-road/lots of movement, they don't seem to last long. On top of that, I don't think anyone makes a stock-sized control arm poly bushing.


What is prefered for CA's then???
1. Rubber/poly on both ends
2. Rubber/poly and a flex-joint/hiem
3. Flex-joint/heim on both ends

I know you said you do not prefer poly because they wear out but maybe someone has had good luck with them.
 
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