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Top engine to tranny bolts...

When you round them out, goto your local autozone, they have 'bolt extractors', made by irwin, theres 2 sets, standard and metric, cant remember which, but i bought both sets to get the tight fitting one. It pulls it out like a champ. I take it with me for engine pulls by default now.

Ive been there... Sometimes its not your fault, and the bolt is allready in terrible shape. And sometimes, its totally your own fault!
 
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I own the Irwin set because of the 1st trans swap. IIRC we couldn't get in there enought to grip it.

One of them came out with whatever we were using. it was just that "one last bolt"... I think it was the passenger side.

THAT'S what I call building character...

Lesson learned.
 
As long as I was using the wrong tools to get the job done, I decided to take the head off once the engine was out. The head bolts seem to be some larger inverted torx that I of course don't have. 1/2" 12 point craftsman socket took them all out nicely. I had to put a 3 foot breaker bar on a few of them to get them loose, but the socket never spun. Couldn't believe the amount of force to get them to break loose.
Anyway, I guess today is my lucky day and the wrong tools worked out without anything getting messed up.
 
They are an SAE size (not sure, but probably 1/2") 12-point, you used the right tool in this case. Only annoying part is that you need a deep socket... who the hell keeps deep 12 point sockets around? I sure don't.

They should be replaced after every second use (if they are marked with paint, assume they have already been reused and need to be replaced) and need to be torqued in specific patterns etc. I believe at least one must also have sealant applied to it because it goes through a water jacket.
 
The passenger e12 bolt on somebody's '98 beat me today. I'm gonna chop off the bevel on the e12 bit I have and give it it another go. If that doesn't work I'll try the 12-point 3/8" socket(tried the 12-pt 10mm). And if that doesn't work, I go to Vatozone and buy the Irwin metric or standard bolt extractor kit?
 
You can gain some work space back there by removing the engine mounts and dropping the front of the engine down a little.
 
I tried the unbevelled e12, the 12-pt 3/8", the irwin 3/8" extractor(smallest in set), and it was a no go. I ended up cutting a hole in the passenger tranny hump so I could uses a sawzall(and 5 new Milwaukee blades) to cut it out. The people were gonna ditch the cherokee due to the >$1K quote for the clutch job anyhow, so I don't feel too bad. The culprits are a bad throw-out and a broken pivot clip. The clutch had worn down so the slots were equal to the raised section(so <50% left). It's one of those jobs where I kick myself for saying yes, but determined to not be beat, so won't quit. . .
 
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The top 2 are 3/8-16 X 2 1/4". The 2 other transmission bolts are 7/16-14 X 3". These measurements are with a flat washer and lock washer on them. This if for an automatic so your length might be different on a manual.
 
pretty sure the top are reverse torx. 5-90 had a good suggestion, replace each these POS when you get them out with a couple pieces of threaded rod. Use the threaded rod to help hang the bell housing when reinstalling and secure with a nut.

Cutting the flange off if you strip the head releases the pressure and you can remove with pliers or vice-grips.

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