TNT LA's anyone?

shimmy said:
anyone around seattle/bellevue have the TNT system? i'd like to see it in person...

-shimmy
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I'm installing Matt's (IXNAYXJ) this week. You're welcome to come by and take a look at it. It's mostly painted now, doing a Rustoleum hammered grey finish. :)
 
ECKSJAY said:
I'm installing Matt's (IXNAYXJ) this week. You're welcome to come by and take a look at it. It's mostly painted now, doing a Rustoleum hammered grey finish. :)
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where, where? maybe tomorrow...
 
In Kent. :) I'll be doing it after 6pm. Working on t-case SYE tomorrow, but the parts will be painted and ready to look at. I can simply say I'm impressed with how it's done. I don't think even Matt can hurt this skidplate. :D
 
SO, how'd it go Phil? Have you seen/installed the CLayton's kit. I'm interested in how they compare. I like the Clayton's kit for it's pure simplicity and "beef". I've abused mine and installed several with very good luck, but I'm always open to options for my customers.

J
 
Avanteone said:
SO, how'd it go Phil? Have you seen/installed the CLayton's kit. I'm interested in how they compare. I like the Clayton's kit for it's pure simplicity and "beef". I've abused mine and installed several with very good luck, but I'm always open to options for my customers.

J
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Seems someone impacted his t-case drain plug in place...and Matt stopped by last night so I didn't get a damn thing done. :D

Yes, I've seen Clayton's and IMHO this thing kicks the crap out of it. Not fond of anything that keeps the arms UNDER the frame rails and kills clearance. Might as well keep drop brackets on if you're going to do that. :)
 
Yeah, I know what you're saying... BUT, I've scraped my Clayton's crossmember like 3 times :) And I'm not worried about beating up on it, it's stout. I'll have to check out Matt's kit once you get it on.

J
 
OK, I'm not trying to start another LA vs SA or longarm versus OTHER longarms argument.... but no way in hell I would run a pre-bent arm on my rig ;) I know it's strong, but that's just opening a door for problems for me. The advantage to the TNT kit as well as the RE kit, is that there's no welding. WHICH IS FINE if you have some sort of allergic reaction or something to welding. :) Coming from a shop owners perspective and having now dealt with installations of SEVERAL long arm kits, I think that welding on a crossmember like the Clayton's kit is far superior to the bolt on. I installed a Claytons' kit on a ZJ a couple of months ago... had probably 5 or 6 hours total involved in attaching the crossmembers, arms, etc. We JUST finished up installing the Rubicon Express LA kit on another ZJ, and we're in it at LEAST 10-12 hours drilling the 50 or 60 holes required, mounting all of the brackets, etc. This is just one of those things where I think simpler is better.

J
 
Avanteone said:
OK, I'm not trying to start another LA vs SA or longarm versus OTHER longarms argument.... but no way in hell I would run a pre-bent arm on my rig ;) I know it's strong, but that's just opening a door for problems for me. The advantage to the TNT kit as well as the RE kit, is that there's no welding. WHICH IS FINE if you have some sort of allergic reaction or something to welding. :) Coming from a shop owners perspective and having now dealt with installations of SEVERAL long arm kits, I think that welding on a crossmember like the Clayton's kit is far superior to the bolt on. I installed a Claytons' kit on a ZJ a couple of months ago... had probably 5 or 6 hours total involved in attaching the crossmembers, arms, etc. We JUST finished up installing the Rubicon Express LA kit on another ZJ, and we're in it at LEAST 10-12 hours drilling the 50 or 60 holes required, mounting all of the brackets, etc. This is just one of those things where I think simpler is better.

J
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I prefer the weld-on kit as well from a shop perspective (you don't want anyone coming back when the crap starts squeaking), though I can see where the appeal is for a bolt-on kit. Matt and I were discussing welding on the plates later, but I can sleeve the unibody rails and eliminate the need for the outside ones with a tie-in. IMHO the best way to do strengthen the unibody longarm kit is to sleeve the rails...THEN a crossmember can be bolted on. The longarm brackets for a TJ bolt on with welded-in sleeves through the frame, and that crossmember bolts on from there. I'm just not wild about bolting on a crossmember with that kind of load from the bottom only...unless it's supported and welded properly in addition. The XJ unibody was never designed to support those stresses at those points.

John, if you get a few mins today I've got one of the arms at the shop with me. I also concur with the pre-bent arm thing. Looking at the way the upper arm brackets are welded on though, it looks like it would prevent further bending. Hard to say though...I guess if anyone can do it, Matt can. :D
 
I just got done doing one on a buddy's XJ in Kirkland.

Your welcome to come and take a look at it today. We have to take it all back apart again because we need to replace the tranny output shaft seal.

Phone if interested.

Cell #401-952-8715

-Karl
 
What would be nice is if one (or more) of the gents with a shop or serious hobbyists for that matter that know what they are doing would;
1) List out the names of the better brands and issues concerning each one ie strengths and weaknesses, and what an installation would cost ie parts, labor.
2) Put up some pictures showing some detail of the LA in process, and completed.

My reasoning is, each area has it's own issues, and the 4x4ing crowd in each area has modified vehicle hardware to allow for specific issues in their area that are different or somewhat different than other areas. A case in point, rock rails.... in the cascades, rock rails that protrude out to the side save the bodies from tree roots/stumps and rocks, that are not the same as rock rails I've used and see in use in the Bitterroots of Idaho/Montana. So recommendations would be different from riders in each area.

The bulk of the riding in the NWC is in the Cascades. So I'm more interested in what shop owners and hard core self-employed 4x4 jeep modificied builders have to say that run these areas, that the national side of the picture. And these are also the people I would be picking from to do business if I were to go with a LA installation.

So while my request may sound like a chance for shops to "plug" their establishment, it's really an up front information request from a NWC NAXJA member interested in his local area, and should thus be allowed under the NWC Forum. After all, we are talking some very serious money when doing a long arm, and having to have a shop doing for lack of experience/equipment.

And if this request cannot be handled on the open forum, then could you PM me the info and stuff as I do intend to get a LA on either my XJ or MJ.

Bruce
 
Avanteone said:
SO, how'd it go Phil? Have you seen/installed the CLayton's kit. I'm interested in how they compare. I like the Clayton's kit for it's pure simplicity and "beef". I've abused mine and installed several with very good luck, but I'm always open to options for my customers.

J
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see john, one thing i'm diggin about the TNT kit is the crossmember. it is beefy and it also has a skid for the TC. also, the prebent arms, are gusseted at the bend by welding the UCA mount right on the bend. its a difficult decision for me. they both had great reps now! and it seems most of the members like the TNT better. i'm gonna have to give karl a call here sometime and check it out!
 
I know this isn't exactly on topic here but Avanteone's comment about going to Aukeen driveline caught my attention. Are they a good outfit to deal with in terms of work quality and cost? I've done some business with Drivelines NW in Tacoma and they tend to be very high priced. Yesterday I had some work done at Fleetpride in Tacoma and they were great to work with and did a nice job for a reasonable price. I'm always looking to find out about local companies that people have actual experience dealing with as I don't like to learn everything the hard way. Thanks, Steve
 
hysiderafter said:
I know this isn't exactly on topic here but Avanteone's comment about going to Aukeen driveline caught my attention. Are they a good outfit to deal with in terms of work quality and cost? I've done some business with Drivelines NW in Tacoma and they tend to be very high priced. Yesterday I had some work done at Fleetpride in Tacoma and they were great to work with and did a nice job for a reasonable price. I'm always looking to find out about local companies that people have actual experience dealing with as I don't like to learn everything the hard way. Thanks, Steve
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well, if john takes his business to Aukeen, then they've got to be reputable. i definitely trust john's judgement.
 
shimmy said:
well, if john takes his business to Aukeen, then they've got to be reputable. i definitely trust john's judgement.
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hahha, thanks dude ;)

Anyways, on the driveline shops... it depends. Honestly if I need a full new custom shaft built, Tom Woods is the cheapest, he does quality work, and I have yet to have a problem. He also builds and ships within 48 hours. If I need something just shortened or lengthened real quick, Bill at Aukeen does a VERY good job and normally same day turn around. I also have had very good luck with FleetPride if I need a CV setup rebuilt. They are very reasonably priced.

John
 
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