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tire on a d35??

Well, I've been thinking about it, and I think for now, I going to run 31" trxus M/T's. Is there a way I can tell if I have c clips or not w/o pulling the cover?? I would like to check out the local yards for some spare shafts, and I need to know what to look for.
 
I believe the Non-clips have an acess hole on the Shaft hub. The C-clip one do not have this hole.

I can't say for sure, I have only really looked at no C-clips. BTW if you find 84-86 D35's the shafts are different but work, Actually the look beefier, the splines are the same.

Eagle is right the big problem with the D35 over other axles is the tube strength. Weld the tubes to the axles or add a truss.
 
If it's a c-clip model it will clearly say "35 C" on the center section. And FWIW-I bought an 8.8" w/discs,blah,blah,blah from an Explorer for $150. After a while,I realized the 8.25" I currently have was a whole lot more stout than I'd been lead to believe. I sold it for $350 and bought a new shop compressor with the money and never looked back! :D
 
the non c-clip ones say "35 C" too ;)
(the c is for custom, not c-clip)

take a good look at the bolt pattern of the axle flange.

on the c-clip ones, the bottom bolts will be slightly farther away from each other. the non c-clip axles will have the bolts equally spaced top and bottom.

I don't know if this is 100% accurate, but every c-clip one i've seen has smooth drums, while every non c-clip one i've seen has finned drums.
 
The 89 model year definitely has the non c-clip axle, it was the last year of this type.

I really was not easy on the pedal with my D35 running 35s for 2 years (with a no slip locker) and now had about 5 events running with 38.5s and a detroit (with 30 spline chromoly axles). With 4.56 gears i was not able to break a shaft or bend an axle tube.

I have no axle truss and and also run a nearly stock D30 with a detroit in front and i can't stand the bashing of the D35. The c-clip axle is weak, true, but for the non-c-clip i can say that it holds up well.
 
Georgia Mike said:
If it's a c-clip model it will clearly say "35 C" on the center section. And FWIW-I bought an 8.8" w/discs,blah,blah,blah from an Explorer for $150. After a while,I realized the 8.25" I currently have was a whole lot more stout than I'd been lead to believe. I sold it for $350 and bought a new shop compressor with the money and never looked back! :D

I guess on your side of the country they do things diferently. :D I'll leave it at that.
 
jb98xj said:
Well, I've been thinking about it, and I think for now, I going to run 31" trxus M/T's. Is there a way I can tell if I have c clips or not w/o pulling the cover?? I would like to check out the local yards for some spare shafts, and I need to know what to look for.

You can see if it's non c-clip by removing the tires and brake drums, and looking behind the axle flange for the axle retaining plate. It's a nearly square plate with four bolts in it that holds the axle in on a non-c-clip axle. The retaining plate isn't there on a c-clip axle because the c-clip holds the axle in.

These guys can say what they want about D35 axles. Some have good luck and many don't. Again, it depends on where you wheel. If it's in mud and dirt you have a better chance. If it's in any kind of rocks, you odds are much higher of breaking something. I've seen a non c-clip axle break on a 4 cyl XJ with 32's. I've seen a welded D35 break an axle on the street. I've seen numerous D35 spider gears break on rigs with 31's. I've seen so many D35's break in so many situations with so many variations of equipment that I have only one conclusion......the D35 is JUNK, even if you do get lucky for awhile. I bet I've seen over 30 D35's break....axles, r&p's, spider gears, and lockers.
 
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