• Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

The RenX Files: High idle problems

Nice write-up. I'm working on one for the sensor ground circuit. I've got it in rough form with no photos. There are a couple of places in the harness on either side of the C101 which have notoriously bad crimps and throw off the sensor grounds badly. I had one Jeep that the ground resistance would vary from 38 to 74 ohms while wiggling the harnesses. Pretty easy fix. Have you ever checked the TPS ground to negative battery post?
 
no, i got the tps calibrated just perfect and it runs like a raped ape. i figured the c101 is just done with so it needs to go, now my renix runs beautifully. i mean... 4.6 to the ECU side of the TPS to 4.9? ill take it lol
 
yeah, someone did that to mine too. then it gave me the idea and the ballz to bypass it completely, the only thing i havent done is the 02 sensor
 
Just to be clear: I know your C101 is pretty much gone, but......

Have you ever checked the resistance from the TPS flat 3 wire connector ground wire to the negative battery post?
 
no, but considering it grounds through the C101, and i was getting so much resistance through the c101, deleting it got rid of my voltage drop issues.
 
The point I'm trying to make is that there are two crappy crimps/splices in the sensor ground circuit. You still have them and they weren't eliminated by bypassing the C101. If you find the brown with white tracer wire from the MAP sensor and follow it into the harness you will find a three-wire splice. Many times it is bad and your MAP, ECU, and diagnostic connector have poor grounds. If you follow the brown with white tracer wire from the TPS into the harness, you will find another 3 wire splice. It is for the TPS, IAT and CTS. This can be checked by probing the brown with white tracer at the TPS. The resistance needs to be less than 1 ohm. If not less than 1 ohm, you need to cut the splices out and solder all those wires together much like what you did with the C101.
 
i know i still have them. i took the entire loom off, all tape, everything. everything was still shiny, no corrosion, no ballooned insulation, and the soldier on it was still shiny. it had no corrosion. and the fact it runs perfectly now would also reinforce that the grounds are not bad. all the issues for me, was with the c101.
 
You've done an excellent job so far with amazing results. At this point, I'd hate to see you neglect a 30 second test to verify if those grounds are good or bad. They could be bad and you wouldn't necessarily know it. The Jeeps that I fixed them on ran pretty darn good, too.
 
i plan on redoing the grounds either way, grounding them each. as far as i know, theres no need for the sensors to ground through the PCM.
 
People have done exactly that with good results. From studying the wiring diagrams, I can see that those 5 sensors ground through the ECU and the ECU grounds to the engine dipstick tube stud along with some other critical sensors and components.
 
Also another thing I have noticed, I replaced the tps, then removed the c101 with great results (as y'all know) but I noticed something. I would still get the occasional high idle. Checked my manifold bolts and used starter fluid to see if there was a vacuum leak, with no results. But at idle, my renix would be at 500 rpm cold, 600 warm.

This is what I figured, the motor in mine is 24 years old with 297k on the ticker, so I thought, well, the butterfly valve looks like its closing too good (imagine all the times it has opened and closed over the years, the plate wears down or the throttle body does, was not able to take measurements) so I decided to mess with the idle screw. Nothing drastic, just about a quarter turn to increase the idle to compensate for the wear inside the throttle body. I still have to readjust the TPS (because now it sits a little more open) but there is a problem it solved so far.

When the oil was hot and idling, pressure would drop to 0. Now mind you my renix was idling at 500 all the time, so my hypothesis was that it wasnt running fast enough to build enough pressure. Now, it will stay at 20 psi at idle reliably, but the idle is still a hair low. Just a little more tuning and it should be straight. Ill post again when I have time to calibrate my TPS because of of my probes broke (its a pos multimeter).

And cruiser54, I checked all of my grounds after the fact, and all of them read less than .01 ohms consistently. Will report back with more.
 
Well damn... I used the 2.5mm allen that moves the arm where the throttle cable attaches
 
damn... how do i pop that screw off?
 
Back
Top