THe NAC Lots-O-BFG KO2 Thread

Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread

foxwar71 said:
Yup, mine are 7/16 for the pinion support. Barnes us dumb, they try to rip off ruffstuff products and they suck.
Click to expand...

thats what ive noticed. im not going to do business with them in the future. wasnt worth saving a few bucks.
 
Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread

while were on topic.

barnes's 3 and 4 link kits only use 3/4" and 7/8" heims
 
Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread

boring.jpg


OK, something to talk about.

I'm contemplating link material choices. 2" 7075 aluminum vs. 2" x .25 DOM.

The aluminum weighs half as much (would work out to roughly 10 lbs difference per link) and costs 1.5x more, but cost isn't really a concern. The 2" heat-treated 4340 links from HereticFab are also interesting but I think even heavier.

I don't think this rig is going to be heavy enough to damage either material. 2" x 3/16" DOM is also availabile and is about on par with the aluminum weight, I don't know if I'd like the thinner wall though and makes for a non-standard tube adapter.

Depending on clearance issues up front, I may end up running radius arms (gasp). Thoughts on how to do this with aluminum links? I don't really like the idea of aluminum link tabs welded to it; seems like they'd deform too easy. Some kinda clamping sleeve might work if there'd be a positive way to keep it from sliding.

If I do manage to fit parallel links up front instead of radius arms (and definitely for the rear 4-link), I'd probably want to run aluminum uppers too. 2" is probably overkill here. But then I think of those goofy aluminum tierods and I don't really want my triangulated upper links acting like spaghetti noodles and springing back (even though 7075 is a different alloy than those tie rods use, I think).

I have the capability to drill & tap the aluminum links myself which would help to offset the additional cost by not needing tube adapters.

Just thinkin out loud.
 
Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread

my experience with aluminum links is watching one explode on a class 4 rig at an rcrocs competition. didnt even look to be too hard of a hit.
 
Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread

I remember one failing at one of those...did it break in the middle or did it split around the heim joint?

I'd consider running a small collar of DOM around the drilled/tapped portion to prevent it from splitting at the threads.
 
Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread

vetteboy said:
I remember one failing at one of those...did it break in the middle or did it split around the heim joint?

I'd consider running a small collar of DOM around the drilled/tapped portion to prevent it from splitting at the threads.
Click to expand...

it split at the threads.

dom collar would be a nifty idea.

if you were smart, you would just run 1" hexagon arms
 
Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread

seriously. 1" hexagons are way stronger than 2" DOM.
 
Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread

ktm racer 419 said:
it split at the threads.

dom collar would be a nifty idea.

if you were smart, you would just run 1" hexagon arms
Click to expand...

2x5" x .25 DOM would be a shrink/press fit over the 2" aluminum. Wouldn't have to be anything big, just an inch long section or so.

Still contemplating how to attach a radius arm to it.
 
Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread

vetteboy said:
...but cost isn't really a concern...
Click to expand...
MUST BE NICE!!!

I think the aluminum would be nifty. I like your idea about the DOM collars at the treaded ends though. Think it needs to be .250" wall? I'd think that .125" wall would be plenty.

Also something to think about is I know that 2" alum would be overkill for the upper links but if you are drilling/tapping them yourself it may be cheaper to get a length of one size than two shorter of different sizes. Also, same length, one spare? Not that if you needed a spare for the upper there wouldn't be bigger problems anyway...
 
Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread

I don't think I want equal length...I'll see how everything lays out though.

Reason for the .250" wall is because .125" doesn't exist except nominally. 2.25" x .120 will telescope/slide over a 2" OD where 2.5" x .250" is an interference fit over a 2" OD. I don't want to put any set screws/holes through the link as additional stress points if I can avoid it (or for something to come loose).

Cost is a concern to an extent but the tube adapters offset that somewhat, and in the scope of the rest of the project this is one of those places where both cost & performance are weighed. 50-60 lbs of unsprung weight (and overall weight) deleted is pretty big.

There are plenty of other places where I am going to cobble & claw my way around costly items. :laugh:
 
Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread

Yeah, looks like it to me. At that price if I was looking to buy a jeep I'd jump on it. It's funny to see a much less awesome jeep a few listings down on the classifieds for 800 bucks more, too.

mvqc68.jpg


I found some guy selling a 285/75R16 BFG AT with good tread on CL to replace the one I slashed the shit out of yesterday, so I guess I will probably be able to make Camp UJ after all. What are the chances of finding something that specific (a single tire, even) that quickly?

Also, anyone got any shitty 15" 8x6.5 steelies sitting around? I'd like to do a little test fitting and see if I have any chance of this working or if I should just forget it and go with 16s or 17s.
 
Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread

mini=man said:
Not running them, just Want to use them for set up bearings. I have brand ass new ones
Click to expand...
I know, I was kidding on running them.

Are all the bearings themselves in good shape, it's just the cage that's bent? I'd do it. Worst case you get inaccurate results from them because they're too messed up and end up having to buy a set to make setup bearings out of.
 
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