XBoBJ
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Spencer MASS
Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread
where do you find these deals lol.
where do you find these deals lol.
By the time I realized this about a minute later (and at the same time I figured out my wiring snafu) the winch solenoid was toasty hot and emitting a smell that was very reminiscent of the magic smoke that leaves an electronic device when it dies. I reconnected everything where it should have been and the kill switch/solenoid worked perfect right away. The winch, not so much. I didn't feel like XXXXing with it at 9:30 PM but my guess is it'll probably need a new solenoid pack at minimum. For now if I really need to use it, I can just manually connect the power...
Another part of my delay last night was figuring out how to strap down my BBQ grill on the new trailer. Heh.![]()
I picked up a $50 chevy 60 last night. Looks like its in nice shape, i need a jeep to put it in. anybody have one?
FIFY.
DAMN YO
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damn. didnt kill the winch though right? need that shit.
the office always has a couple of plague rats in it, snarfing snot everywhere. I try to avoid being the plague rat, thus my calling out sick for 3 days this week. My plan was to work on the house while sick but the actual result was me lying in bed feeling like hell while sick.i'm still sick, but at least i slept last night.
i havent been sick in like 3 years, i start working at an office and i get sick twice in a month. coincidence? def not.
I don't really understand this either... buy big ass beefy axle, immediately weaken it to make installation easier. WTF?Yeah, and I'll still never understand that. Besides a little grinding to remove the pad flats I don't see what the person doing any of these axles wouldn't just cut the steel bracket they are adding rather than the axle itself. Must be the "must use an unmodified universal bracket" mentality. :dunno:
You probably already know this but you can test it simply by connecting the two wires for the motor to the battery directly. If it spools in (or out, switch the wires etc) then it still works. My bet is that you demagnetized the magnets and possibly melted a lot of enamel off the windings though.So as a member in good standing of the GSD club.
Last night I was outside until 11:30 PM - in sub-30 degree weather - doing some electrical work on the XJ and loading everything up on the trailer. Remote battery disconnect, new kill switch, amber light, and a bunch of other stuff all good to go now. I need to get one of those headlamps or something...I spent most of that time with my minimag clenched in my teeth. :laugh:
Things didn't go without issue though. I've had two lengths of 3-conductor wire running through the firewall for a long time now for the in-cab winch controls. One for the main winch and one for the (now missing) front suckdown winch. I figured I'd use the wiring for the suckdown winch to run the remote solenoid as it just needed to be connected to the new items on both ends.
Long story short, I wired the kill switch up to the main winch wiring instead of the suckdown winch wiring by mistake. Obviously this didn't work, so after dicking around with it for a half hour trying to find the 'bad connection', I jumped the solenoid and started the truck to troubleshoot further. Not realizing that this was now sending constant power to the winch solenoid pack and stalling the winch hook against the fairlead. Keep in mind this would be mostly silent as the winch isn't actually rotating, just sittin' there sucking up amperage.
By the time I realized this about a minute later (and at the same time I figured out my wiring snafu) the winch solenoid was toasty hot and emitting a smell that was very reminiscent of the magic smoke that leaves an electronic device when it dies. I reconnected everything where it should have been and the kill switch/solenoid worked perfect right away. The winch, not so much. I didn't feel like XXXXing with it at 9:30 PM but my guess is it'll probably need a new solenoid pack at minimum. For now if I really need to use it, I can just manually connect the power...
Another part of my delay last night was figuring out how to strap down my BBQ grill on the new trailer. Heh.![]()
There is one sitting in my back yard, and he still wants to sell it to you. Don't you have one already though? I mean, it's a 4 door... but still.I picked up a $50 chevy 60 last night. Looks like its in nice shape, i need a jeep to put it in. anybody have one?
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daaaaaaamn.DAMN YO
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I bet you smoked the windings partially too, unfortunately. Pulling that much current while the rotor is stalled means basically no heat dissipation...XXXXer's still sittin there all bound up against the fairlead...after the solenoid didn't work right away I abandoned it and went onto other stuff. Figure that's easy enough to mess with when I get out there tonight.
[motor nerd]
Biggest issue with the winch is gonna be the fact that it's a permanent magnet motor instead of a series-wound. Most of the 8k lbs winches on the market are series wound - anything with 3 terminals on the motor and 4 solenoids in the relay pack. Permanent magnet ones only have 2 terminals on the motor and change direction just by reversing the polarity, which is why it's just a single solenoid assembly.
Besides the small ATV and utility winches, I don't even know if there are any 8k permanent magnet winches right now - the current version of the Smittybilt one I've got changed over to series-wound shortly after I bought it, and seeing as their components were sourced from either Ramsey or Milemarker (I forget which), I'd guess those probably changed too.
Permanent magnet motors are cheap but produce gobs of torque - pretty much only limited by how much current you can supply to them. Problem is amperage = heat, and too much heat cooks the magnets and causes them to become demagnetized. Unfortunately it's not an all-or-nothing deal; it's possible that they'll just become weakened so the winch will still spool just fine, but pull more amperage to do the same job it did before. Which equals more heat and a shortened service life, or in a case where your wiring can't supply enough amperage, it just flat out won't pull as hard. And eventually it'll just melt the winding and crap out completely. [/motor nerd]
Sooooo....guess I'll just have to try it and see.
It's been bolted in the truck since November 2007; honestly with the amount of abuse I've put on this thing it really doesn't owe me anything at this point. I'll figure something out.
You probably already know this but you can test it simply by connecting the two wires for the motor to the battery directly. If it spools in (or out, switch the wires etc) then it still works. My bet is that you demagnetized the magnets and possibly melted a lot of enamel off the windings though.
I bet you smoked the windings partially too, unfortunately. Pulling that much current while the rotor is stalled means basically no heat dissipation...
You can build a PM motor solenoid pack with 4 NO contactors, basically just build an H bridge out of them. IIRC, a series wound motor solenoid pack connects one end of the rotor coil to ground, then applies power to the other end in series with the field coil, and swaps the leads for the field coil to change direction.
There is one sitting in my back yard, and he still wants to sell it to you. Don't you have one already though? I mean, it's a 4 door... but still.
96 red 2 door, getting parted out soon-ish, talk to H8PVMNT. I think Billy has first dibs on the body.details?
96 red 2 door, getting parted out soon-ish, talk to H8PVMNT. I think Billy has first dibs on the body.
excellent. My back porch is available for a part-out (probably use the end toward the front door so it doesn't collapse.) This should make for an amusing evening of jeep disassembly...I've been talking to him for the past week. Things look good. I'm probably gonna pull the trans and t case from my 4 door and scrap it.