THe NAC Lots-O-BFG KO2 Thread

Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread

Sadly, no.
 
Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread

Still dont see why you don't narrow a D44 ttb, or leave it full width
edit: If I am reading things correctly, it seems that the D44ttb chunk and the D50ttb chunk share a bolt pattern and can be bolted onto the same beam. If that's true, no need to spend the extra money on the Jana kit
And damn you for making me look at TTB parts, Its making me want to work on my ranger, and ignore other projects.

Narrowing the TTB seems like it'd be a pretty big project. I've only ever seen the cut & turn. :dunno: Any more info on that?

I don't wanna leave it full width because I'm trying to keep this thing narrow - stock width for the explorer 8.8, in other words.

I think the TTB 35 with quality (cryo'd) gears and the bearing cap girdle arrangement will probably be OK.

Jeepman401 said:
DO NOT go for an A4LD, its a giant pos, and its a french design.
Your best bet would be to find a 5R44E out of a 01-09 ranger if you could, and use that, or a 4R44e out of a 95-00 ranger. Either one would require some sort of shift controller to be made, but that wouldn't be difficult.
Found a link to this http://www.cididit.com/adaptor_plate30.htm, nobody I could find has used one, but it might be an option to look into. If nothing else it gives you a better selection of manual transmissions to pick from.
You could also go for the M5OD. They are a decent trans and bolt right up. The only issue would be making an adapter to bolt on the D300

Yeah, those trans selections were bothering me. I've driven the M5OD in a Bronco before but I don't wanna be stuck using the BW cases...dead set on a gear drive case. Although a doubler with the BW front half to a 300 probably would be ok...

But shit, if that adapter plate is the real deal, that opens up a TON of options. Anything from my existing NV4500/231/D300 setup (without modifications) to the Chevy TH350/400/700R4 stuff (via Advance Adapters)...hmm. Maybe I'll give them a call while I'm thinkin about it. That price is even pretty reasonable...
 
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Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread

Found someone who used that adapter plate...no wonder this is such a bitch of a swap, the overlay of the bolt patterns is pretty gnarly.

100_3049.jpg


That's worth $220 shipped for me to not have to think about it anymore.
 
Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread

I got those pre-bent(in god awful shapes) of brake lines from Adam a while back and they're way smarter than I am, and also way longer than they should be.

the way you intstall those. is by removing everything from the jeep and running them against the bare unibody.

XXXX pre-bent lines.
 
Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread

Found someone who used that adapter plate...no wonder this is such a bitch of a swap, the overlay of the bolt patterns is pretty gnarly.

100_3049.jpg


That's worth $220 shipped for me to not have to think about it anymore.

Eff making that crap. I'm all set.

Buy the kit FTW.

the way you intstall those. is by removing everything from the jeep and running them against the bare unibody.

XXXX pre-bent lines.

I'm copying Chris's front setup when it comes time for that. Out back will be mega long soft line to the axle since I have leaves.
 
Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread

WHEN I SAY HILLSHIRE YOU SAY FARM!

HILLSHIRE

FARM


GO MEAT!
 
Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread

I had been hearing a squeak come from the back of my VW since I put my soundsystem in. It was bugging the shit out of me and last night I finally figured out what it was. Who would have thought that carpet rubbed firmly against glossy painted steel would squeak so loudly. A little WD40 later - silence.
 
Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread

Eff making that crap. I'm all set.

Buy the kit FTW.

This reminded me of our good buddy GreatWhiteXJ's mentality about the doubler "kits", how it's cheaper to make your own. Here's his breakdown:

D300...$200 Bucks.
231...should already have.
Shifters....make em.
Doubler plates and clocking ring...make em.
Mid shaft...265.
That puts my doubler cost near 500. (Thats complete and ready.)

I used to think like that too, and wonder why shit always cost more than I was planning on. Because shifters, doubler plates, and clocking rings are free, right? You're making it yourself, after all.

:shaking:

The motor mount plates we did are one thing...relatively loose tolerance, easy to measure. Once you start trying to align two (really odd) transmission patterns with dowel pins etc...not something I wanna do with a punch & scribe on the workbench.

MoparManiac said:
I'm copying Chris's front setup when it comes time for that. Out back will be mega long soft line to the axle since I have leaves.

Use the 1982 Dodge W250 rear brake hose, ftw. :)
 
Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread

I am about to become the safest, most safety-hyping, risk averse person this company has ever seen.

They clearly have no common sense and will waste my xxxxing time with bullshit safety complaints until I record and report every single tiny safety concern I have, no matter how ridiculous, at which point hopefully they'll think I wear diapers, a hard hat, safety glasses, breathing apparatus, and a full body protective cushion / life preserver to work and leave me the hell alone.
 
Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread

This reminded me of our good buddy GreatWhiteXJ's mentality about the doubler "kits", how it's cheaper to make your own. Here's his breakdown:

I saw that in the thread. Him and OneTonXJ are the epitome of Pirate4x4 d-bags who act like they know everything when in reality they are unbelievably close-minded.

I used to think like that too, and wonder why shit always cost more than I was planning on. Because shifters, doubler plates, and clocking rings are free, right? You're making it yourself, after all.

:shaking:

I went the opposite way. Suspensions and everything I never wanted to build because, I mean come on, that crap keeps your AXLES in holy shit I don't want to mess with that.

Now building a 3-link to me is fun :dunno:.

The motor mount plates we did are one thing...relatively loose tolerance, easy to measure. Once you start trying to align two (really odd) transmission patterns with dowel pins etc...not something I wanna do with a punch & scribe on the workbench.

Yup, and that's why I don't trust my ghetto D20 clocking job. At least two of the bolt holes in the adapter I had to enlarge a bit since my measurements were off, and I only have 5 bolts and a half-assed dowel pin (not very tight tolerance) holding it in. One of the bolts is ready to strip the threads too.

I did thread in two socket cap bolts from the inside out like I read this guy do so they act like studs.

I just hope it holds up. :gee:

Use the 1982 Dodge W250 rear brake hose, ftw. :)

The sad part is my father probably has all new brake hoses for the 87 Ramcharger upstairs in the garage. I know the front axle uses the same setup (center drop soft line) so maybe I can get all those pieces for free :D
 
Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread

This reminded me of our good buddy GreatWhiteXJ's mentality about the doubler "kits", how it's cheaper to make your own. Here's his breakdown:

D300...$200 Bucks.
231...should already have.
Shifters....make em.
Doubler plates and clocking ring...make em.
Mid shaft...265.
That puts my doubler cost near 500. (Thats complete and ready.)

I used to think like that too, and wonder why shit always cost more than I was planning on. Because shifters, doubler plates, and clocking rings are free, right? You're making it yourself, after all.

:shaking:
Wow, he got screwed. Here's my breakdown so far:

Shaft: $170
NP231: I had at least one
D300: $50
D300 parts: $25?
Steel: $30ish?

I will probably end up with another $30-50 into it from various things like hardware.

Total: ~$300

Edit: wow, ONEtonXJ finally has a red star. For all the posting he does you'd have thought he had one right along...
 
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Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread

Damnit I wish my MJ was done! :(

I think I might spring for 7100s up front...

I wish I knew if it was worth it or not. Twice the price of 5150s but I can get stiffer valving (360/80 vs 255/70).

I need 17" collapsed at most, and at least 27" fully drooped just so I don't max out the shock.
 
Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread

Damnit I wish my MJ was done! :(

I think I might spring for 7100s up front...

I wish I knew if it was worth it or not. Twice the price of 5150s but I can get stiffer valving (360/80 vs 255/70).

I need 17" collapsed at most, and at least 27" fully drooped just so I don't max out the shock.

limit straps
 
Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread

It's probably worth your time to have a chat with Joel @ Bilstein...

Random Thoughts Race said:
Go with the new application specific 5160 or the order by length 5165. Swivel hose reservoir, can be converted to revalve/ rebuild with 7100 parts. 5160/65> 5100, 5150, 5125, 6011 etc. 5160/65 hose config > 7100

Might be a better solution in there somewhere. :D

Meanwhile...get the longest-travel shock you can find that fits in your compressed length, and go with it. Don't worry about droop. Those springs are gonna unseat pretty quickly as it is.
 
Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread

12" travel 5125 will fit for me (17" collapsed, 28" extended).

I'll just have to limit it to prevent binding my driveshaft, but no biggy.

5165 huh? I might have to give Bilstein a call when I know what lengths I need for the rear.
 
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