The Frog Blog

Really? Rubicon Express says to do it the opposite way. I was thinking that it wouldn't really matter when it flexes, but I think rubber on the axle side would allow for more axle rotation (or axle wrap) in high torque and braking situations. This makes more sense when you think about it in a situation where a person is running radius long arms. If you have 4 rubber bushing on the axle end, the axle will be able to rotate against the soft bushings. If you put the heims at the axle end, it won't have any give to rotate, but it will still have rubber bushings at the frame end to dampen it
 
Nice, Glad you got the bushings fixed on the frog, I picked up a can of VHT nite shades and did a little project on my Jeep as well. I have been wanting smoked corners for a while and I thought the ebay ones looked like poo. So, I realized they had the paint at Advance Auto parts. Here it is $18 later.

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Don't mind the murdered butterfly on the bumper.

And a poser shot to see the difference in the lenses :D
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knucklehead 61 said:
rubber ends go on the axle, flex joints on the frame end...
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Alright, I admit that I goofed this one pretty bad and now it is forever etched in the journals of the FB. During the initial installation, I must have installed the LCAs backwards without realizing it. Seems pretty simple to follow the directions, but somehow I ended up installing the rubber end at the axle.

Last night after reading these posts, I looked at the RE instructions (via .pdf) and it clearly states to install the rubber end at the drop bracket. I really don't know how I mixed that up. Because it drove so well, I never bothered to even check it. Ugh. Time to sell the Frog...
 
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jimbosz07 said:
Really? Rubicon Express says to do it the opposite way. I was thinking that it wouldn't really matter when it flexes, but I think rubber on the axle side would allow for more axle rotation (or axle wrap) in high torque and braking situations. This makes more sense when you think about it in a situation where a person is running radius long arms. If you have 4 rubber bushing on the axle end, the axle will be able to rotate against the soft bushings. If you put the heims at the axle end, it won't have any give to rotate, but it will still have rubber bushings at the frame end to dampen it
Click to expand...

I'm at a total loss here as to how I mixed this up during lift installation last January. When I get home I will look at the kid's lift, as he is running the 4.5" RE kit with drop brackets. This is really bugging me.
 
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Haha I've seen it that way before.

I installed my RE arms with flex joints at the axle, but I've seen others with drop brackets install them with flex joints at the body.

Maybe the difference is whether or not you have db's?
 
rocknxj said:
When I get home I will look at the kid's lift, as he is running the 4.5" RE kit with drop brackets.
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You got me worried so I did a little digging. :D

Here's a pretty good picture showing the end with the zerk attached to the axle: http://www.naxja.org/forum/showpost.php?p=244885819&postcount=14 and another: http://www.naxja.org/forum/showpost.php?p=244944891&postcount=83

And installation instructions indicating the zerk end goes on the axle and the rubber end on the frame (page 2): http://www.rubiconexpress.com/Images/Products/RE7000/RE7000.pdf

(Granted the instructions are for the 4.5" TJ/LJ Superflex Kit but they would go the same way for an XJ wouldn't they? For the curious, the kit is the RE6130 4.5" XJ Superflex with adjustable LCAs).
 
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FlexdXJ said:
Nice, Glad you got the bushings fixed on the frog, I picked up a can of VHT nite shades and did a little project on my Jeep as well. I have been wanting smoked corners for a while and I thought the ebay ones looked like poo. So, I realized they had the paint at Advance Auto parts. Here it is $18 later.

IMG00075-20101017-1546.jpg




Don't mind the murdered butterfly on the bumper. :D
Click to expand...

Cool, man. Do you have any shots with the signals illuminated? Night shots? I'm curious to see how it looks lit.
 
rocknxj said:
Cool, man. Do you have any shots with the signals illuminated? Night shots? I'm curious to see how it looks lit.
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I will take some tonight. They actually light up pretty good. I will be replacing them with LED's sometime. I like LED's! :D
 
rocknxj said:
Mmmm, just got my 4Wheel Drive Hardware catalog and ordered a bunch of good junk for the Frog.

D30 and Chy8.25 Lube Lockers (one each)
Spicer driveshaft U-joints (two)
Spicer U-joint strap kit and bolts (one set)
Currie E-Z Deflator (had to buy one after using Kelly's during Sierra Fest)
Warn 4-gauge Quick Connector (to wire up my removable winch)

I got a 5% NAXJA discount also, which is pretty cool. Still no TV though :(......
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I received everything but my U-joints the other day, which I presume are on the way. My E-Z Deflator came broken so I called 4WD and they sent out a replacement, which came in the mail yesterday. The kid got the broken, but still functional Deflator for his rig (I'm such a good Pa). My Warn 4-gauge QDs look good but I need to figure out how to solder them in time for the Strawberry Pass trip this Sunday. In short, 4WD Hardware = good prices, honors NAXJA, fast shipping, and good customer service.

The 50" plasma is about two weeks out. Anybody need a really nice 37" Sony Wega Trinitron TV?
 
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I was bummed that you got your wish book before I got mine.

I replaced the U joints on the front driveshaft after the T Case rebuild and even though I had the phasing correct and matched, I had this terrible drumming sound at 60 MPH like there was someone from the Los Angeles Symphony in the back seat beating on the kettle drums.

I figured that something was out of whack so I ran it over to Drive Line Service of West Sac where they found the that centering kit I had installed in the Double Cardan joint was not behaving (it was really tight to begin with), fixed it, stripped the shaft, rebalanced it and even painted it. Put it back on and it was like new in the front end and smooth. It was so good I pulled the main drive line and found that it was not optimal and ran it over to the masters of balancing. When I bought parts from them for the DIY part of my first exercise they effectively charged wholesale and gave great advice.

Bottom line that it is advisable to have the assembly checked and balance after any part replacement along the driveline. You can save some buckages by replacing the parts yourself and having them balance it. There are enough noises in the XJs, that complicating troubleshooting by introducing more was not something I was willing to live with. The driveline parts I am fixing had 182K on them. It was time.

http://www.dlssac.com
 
Had a good run on Strawberry Pass today, which will forever be known as the October Rain Run. Wheeled with three Wranglers, 100K XJ, Frontman, and Rockslut from NAXJA. Great time, despite the crappy weather.

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Here's a nice shot of Kevin giving a YJ a little helpful tug up Painted Rock.

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srmitchell said:
Nice!

I havent wheeled since deer valley/ hollister. :(
Click to expand...

Your job is to build an education and find a good job. Wheeling will come later in life, I'm sure. You seem to be doing a great job at learning your Jeep as you go, and that is nearly as fun as wheeling anyway.

BTW, after wheeling in the pounding rain, on slippery rocks, and not taking time to air down, I am convinced that a front locker is the way to go, given the choice between front or rear only. My combo of BFG KM2's and front el-cheapo locker served me well this weekend. I don't expect my kid to be smack talking me much these days...
 
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