- Location
- Colorado
Exact same link i posted... When you click on order it takes you to Ineedparts.com and says that it is no longer in stock
With all this talk about exhaust, I've not seen anyone talking about the down pipe/ B pipe / mid pipe.
Short of the junk Walker sells, I'm unable to find a nother option.
What the FM rep told me made a lot of sense to me. The length and size of the 2.5" pipe allowed the gases to cool down significantly. This in turn allow the gases to get heavy which resulted in a reduced velocity at which it exit.
Have one custom made..
Have one custom made.
Used to be that Borla made a great one. 2.5 mandrel bent. Hard to find one now.
This has been bugging me for some time, so I sent it to a close friend who's an engineer at aFe and at Gale Banks before that. It was a longer conversation, but it boiled down to the guy at FM was so full of shit his eyes are brown.
And that's proven by your fix, closing up just the last 18" - your exhaust does not move any faster until it reaches that point and will cool just as quickly.
Any real exhaust engineer will tell you back pressure is a myth. Keeping enough exhaust velocity to maintain scavenging is critical for sure, but going from 2.25 (factory) to 2.5 is not going to have any material effect.
While the gains in flow would be minimal with just a header vs the stock piece- its not my primary concern. Only way exhuast will be the limitimg factor is if more air is coming in. With out porting or head or stroking or forced air... Im sure its a slight if any increase to power with a true header.
Running one with 3 inch exhuast all the way back for instance wont just magically give the engine more power. Imonthe stock exhuast is better flowing then most cars. Id agree a cai with header would be an upgrade to stock- but nothing over 15--20hp max
Mine is cracked. So it needs replacement. Bang for buck is primary concern for me.
Ebay header or protuning lab is where im leaning
I think you said it- solid mounts, might be best?
Third manifold? I currently have the "updated" one with billows thats supposed to prevent cracking too... And well it didnt lol
Adding in the flex piece to let the brunt of the bouncing to absorb might be your best bet? A solid hanger or 2 wouldnt hurt too. Even if the flex piece fails- easier to replace then tearing out the mani/header
Why are you om your THIRD manifold??? Your post seems to agree with the idea of inproving upon that design? Albiet minimal without adding more air in...
Are you looking to go that route now?
Originally Posted by cal
This has been bugging me for some time, so I sent it to a close friend who's an engineer at aFe and at Gale Banks before that. It was a longer conversation, but it boiled down to the guy at FM was so full of shit his eyes are brown.
And that's proven by your fix, closing up just the last 18" - your exhaust does not move any faster until it reaches that point and will cool just as quickly.
Any real exhaust engineer will tell you back pressure is a myth. Keeping enough exhaust velocity to maintain scavenging is critical for sure, but going from 2.25 (factory) to 2.5 is not going to have any material effect.
Well yes I would have agreed with this but I have noticed a change from only changing the exhaust tubing size. I ran 2.5” the first time I redid my exhaust and it seemed to be slow to respond to throttle input and just doggy overall. I changed the down pipe and everything to the back axle to 2.25” and left the 2.5” running from the glass pack to the tail pipe 2.5”. Made a noticeable difference in the engine response.
I don’t recall changing anything else at that time and I can’t say why it would have made a change. But tthat was the days of alot of late nights :confused1:dunno:
I also remember a video where one of the shops got a nice pair of headers and dented them with a hammer while pulling dyno runs to see what power they would lose, they lost around 1 hp.
So I don’t put much into exhaust anymore other than keeping it from cracking or getting smashed.