The 2014 NACFest 'Most Thrashed' Saga Continues...

Rob Mayercik

NAXJA Member #920
NAXJA Member
Location
NJ, U.S.A.
The story so far:

I took a nasty rock hit out at Rausch and did the following to my '92:

- Transmission Crossmember bent
- Transmission pan dipstick tube nearly ripped off at elbow where it enters pan
- Snapped exhaust downpipe (muffler and car rode out of park in back of truck)

Got the pan and crossmember replaced, but had some nasty binding in the drivetrain and had to pull the front driveshaft (on which we couldn't budge the slip joint) so I could drive it home.


Now the update:

Had the truck checked out at my local 4x4 shop. What they found:

- Nothing bent/tweaked in front suspension. All looked OK.
- Front driveshaft had siezed/blown u-joint on axle end (replaced)
- Front driveshaft reinstalled and vehicle road-tested. Shaft is apparently bent, but "very subtly". Shaft removed and bagged, replacement recommended.

Now the big issue - apparently the driver's side front and both rear leaf spring pockets are beginning to collapse up through the floor pan. Floor pan work recommended (but that shop doesn't do body repair work). Knowing my luck, the passenger-side front spring mount is probably not too far behind them.

I have not had the opportunity to acquire welding equipment and learn to weld yet. Also, my current work schedule is something just left of insane, so I don't really have the time learn/repair it myself presently. As such, I am looking for a shop that could do the work for me, provided the estimate is not "unreasonable".

Does anyone know of a shop that might be willing to take on a rear floor pan replacement (and possibly repair to the spring mounts themselves) that I might contact about getting an estimate?

Thanks,


Rob
 
Possibly J&B motorsports in Stowe PA (right outside pottstown), he does a lot of custom fab work. It would be a hike for you though, so I'd hope you have a spare vehicle. His rates aren't unreasonable, i've had him do some work on several of my vehicles and he's a great guy to work with, his name is Brian.
 
check the rest of your floors before spending $$ on fixing that. when my front spring box punched up thru the floor it was because the entire floor was so perforated that it had broken from the rear hatch up to the driver footwell. the entire side of the rig was swinging loose.
pull up your carpets front to rear and see if it's really worth fixing. it may need more than you think it does.
 
I'd agree, Rob. I'd take a long look at the shell and make sure it's worth fixing. If it's worth fixing, but not worth paying a shop a ton to do it, and you still want to learn how to weld, this may be a good chance, but it sounds like that's going to be prolonging the inevitability of needing a new shell. The plus would be that you could start fresh, and can do the proper unibody stiffening before wheeling the new Jeep.
 
Unfortunately, Rob, I have to agree with some of the other posts here...I know how hard it can be to part with an old friend, especially one that has taken you so many places. That said, it sounds to me like even with a ridiculous amount of teardown and welding, it may only be prolonging the inevitable. We love our "boneless" xj's, but they do have a limited life once you really start to twist them up on the trails, which you've been doing with yours for many years. Good luck!
Rich
P.S. Not for nothing, but you may want to get in touch with Jordan if you end up seeking a shell swap...It appears he's been buying up and parting a lot of clean late models lately, he more than likely has one with a clean title...It's a lot of work doing a shell swap, but I'd be willing to help you out with the job if thats the route you decide to take. My garage is small, but I have the right equipment. You know I have a trailer to accomodate.
 
Pretend you didn't see anything and keep driving it. Red Jeep's hangers were pushed into the floor and collapsing, one side was rusted out too. No kittens or nuns died and I didn't care enough to do anything about it.
 
I have done a bit of rust repair (and 40 years of welding) as well as several days of chassis upgrades to my XJ so far. I found my floor rotted away on the drivers side in the front and passenger rear area and decided to proceed with the repairs to the floor and that the effort of boxing the frame was within reason compared (due to my ambitions) to the cost of replacing the shell but it's not my DD and I am more of a fabricator than a mechanic so it was an easy choice for me. For you, I would buy a clean shell and have it reinforced for the application prior to the installation of your parts. I wish I would have located a clean AW4 vehicle before all the welding but that ain't the way it went. Good luck.
 
Been so busy at work I've not had a chance to look into the shop suggested above, or anywhere else yet. My plan is to get a couple estimates so I have enough information to make the decision.

Appreciate all the info, though.
 
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