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AW4 was that the Torque Converter I was hearing???

WGxj

NAXJA Forum User
NAXJA Member
Location
MN
Have 97 Jeep Cherokee Sport 4WD 4.OL vehicle. Took a 15 mile trip. On the way back noticed transmission not going into Over Drive as expected. Within 5 miles slowed to a crawl, stopped and parked. Noticed smoke coming from transmission cross member area of transmission, and small pool of fluid formed still dripping from transmission.

I installed performance grade Tranny cooler and added Trany temp sensor to trans aux port which wasn't available starting in 1998 versions. Upon parking observed Oil Temp 168 Deg. F. Once parked it pegged the sensor at 260 Deg. F. Noted cool down back to 180 Deg F after 45 mins. Had it towed home.

Recently, the rusty hanger welded to the front of the CAT broke off. I installed an aftermarket hanger clamped to exhaust pipe and same oem location on cross member area. I'd been hearing intermittent rattling noises the previous 2-3 weeks, and thought it was the hanger which I could fix any time.

First Question: Was that the Torque Converter I was hearing making the rattling sound?
My son-in-law mechanic did a very quick look see in the dark and thought it was the Torque Converter.
Will likely get confirmation the next week or so.

Second Question: Its now in a personal work shop. But if I lost all or most of the fluid, how will I know if the Transmission is still good?
 
Pull the transmission dip stick, smell the fluid - burnt smelling? Now feel the fluid with your fingers, gritty?

If normal on both of those, note fluid level.

Check torque converter to flex plate bolts, 4 of em, and decently snug.

When you saw fluid leaking out, where was it coming from? The torque converter has no external oil passages to leak from, and leakage at the front is usually the input seal.
If you start and put the jeep in gear, does it move? If the fluid is too low, it won't move at all.
 
Pull the transmission dip stick, smell the fluid - burnt smelling? Now feel the fluid with your fingers, gritty?

If normal on both of those, note fluid level.

Check torque converter to flex plate bolts, 4 of em, and decently snug.

When you saw fluid leaking out, where was it coming from? The torque converter has no external oil passages to leak from, and leakage at the front is usually the input seal.
If you start and put the jeep in gear, does it move? If the fluid is too low, it won't move at all.
After pulling into level parking lot, looked underneath, saw fluid rapidly dripping primarily from center of trans cross member. Created small pool on pavement. Just barely moved vehicle backwards 2 vehicle lengths and no further. In the dark it was hard to see. but once on the Tow Bed, noticed no further fluid pool or leaks.
It was a foggy eve so never noticed any smoke. While directing jeep into garage from Tow Bed, noticed Hatch Back Glass and Rear Bumper covered with a layer of fluid. Smell we suspected was from fluid burning off exhaust.

Garage 20 miles away. Going over there now, will do the checks and report back Thks.
 
No fluid on Dip Stick.
Dropped Transmission Pan.
Oil was burnt. No grit feel to oil.
Trans Fluid leak appears to have come from front seal.
Will try to upload picture of bell housing.

Checked magnet in Transmission and no grit.
Haven't opened filter physically yet.
Wiping it down, looking for more leak sources if any.
Will test Solenoids, gotta find resistance spec.
ODB Scanner shows P1898

by the way Happy New Year.
More later.
 

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UPDATE: 12/31/23 5:03 PM CST
split open the filter, very, very minimal particles and no clumps of grit.
the 4 flex plate bolts were snug. in fact 2 of them were very tight.
tomorrow will put front end on jack stands to get a better look see
still haven't positively determined where fluid was leaking out from.
if better visual inspection on jack stands doesn't point to the leak source
will put pan with new filter and gasket back on fill it with ATF-4 and see what happens

Update: 1/1/25 (getting Dexron III Dexron VI compat per other threads)
(need to confirm leak source (s) before trany removal)
(will ultimately use Valvoline MaxLife Multi vehicle or Walmart Super Tech)
 
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Probed Solenoids, all seemed to measure approx 10 ohms (spec says 11-15)
Installed new gasket and filter.
Filled with fluid to detect leaks.
See pic below. Trans cooler line connector at transmission failed.
Ran jeep (all up on jack stands).
Felt gear changes including rpm indicating downshift over 40 mph.
Getting parts tonight.

After cooler line fixed, if no further leaks detected, would like to just take it down, street test it,
And if its good, drain and re-fill with better fluid w/o opening pan again.
Or should we replace Solenoids while its up on stands?
I am always afraid of creating more problems by swapping too many things out at once.
 

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Thank you for the help. We replaced cooler line connectors, filled trans with fluid, drove on street a mile or two, shifting was smooth and responsive. No hiccups. We also put a new nut on the NSS. If you zoom into the photo above you will notice the nut, tab washer, and rubber washer are missing. How that happening ??????
Drove it another 10 miles combination stop and go and freeway. Smooth shifting, good response, appropriate downshifting for passing or hills. All smiles
Anyways, we are back up and running. thank you all again.
 
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