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taurus install

Dave, so I'm finally able to understand a little more of you schematic, it looks like the only time your variable fan switch will get power will be when the pcm turns on the aux. fan. Does it only do that when the temps get up around the 220* mark?
 
asatxj, I'm honestly not sure, from what I've read it looks like the early to mid 90's taurus' with the 3.8 has em, some sables as well. Jump on google and search there, that's where I found most of my info
 
whitneyj said:
Dave, so I'm finally able to understand a little more of you schematic, it looks like the only time your variable fan switch will get power will be when the pcm turns on the aux. fan. Does it only do that when the temps get up around the 220* mark?

Exactly. That doesn't pose a problem at all, and should have then engine back down to the 210* mark in a matter of seconds. This way it stays in the engines operating temperature range. I never ended up doing it this way, I added a second stock e-fan in place of the mechanical and wired both e-fans together. I've had no problems with that setup, and it cost me $13 and mounted with no problems.
 
Man, $13 is really hard to argue with. . . I've got issues with some pretty high underhood temps, hence the overkill efan
 
Commando81 said:
I just got a fan from a 98 will it work with this setup

Just hook it up with your stock e-fan.

whitneyj said:
Man, $13 is really hard to argue with. . . I've got issues with some pretty high underhood temps, hence the overkill efan

I have the lebaron hood vents and no A/C condensor so my engine temp only goes over 210 if I'm idling for an extended period of time. I also have a 3 row CSF.
 
All of the 3.8 liter Taurus's and Sable's I've seen at the junk yard already had the fans plucked.

I've seen some in the 3.0 liter which look identicle, but as I've been told, the fans in the 3.0 liter do not pull nearly as much air.
 
The only thing I see is that both the high speed and low speed draw from a common fuse. (50 amp)
Problem.
If the HS side takes out this fuse you have no fan at all. Deep poop if it's a Efan only system.
Fix:
Independent high speed and low speed fuses. The low side may still work and you could get home with some babying.
For that matter if the LS side goes out (((( I THINK ))))) the HS side may still work with the 2 relay system and you could still limp home.
(((( I THINK )))) the 3 relay system needs the LS side to be working for the HS side to kick in. PLEASE jump in if I not right on that.
A last ditch try for home.
If you control system false but fan is still good. A fused switched line right off the battery that can be plugged right into the fan after unplugging the normal system.
 
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asatxj said:
I just found a fan from a 95 Taurus SHO. Will that one work?

It will if it is from a 3.8 litre and has the three wires running to it.
 
badron said:
The only thing I see is that both the high speed and low speed draw from a common fuse. (50 amp)
Problem.
If the HS side takes out this fuse you have no fan at all. Deep poop if it's a Efan only system.
Fix:
Independent high speed and low speed fuses. The low side may still work and you could get home with some babying.
For that matter if the LS side goes out (((( I THINK ))))) the HS side may still work with the 2 relay system and you could still limp home.
(((( I THINK )))) the 3 relay system needs the LS side to be working for the HS side to kick in. PLEASE jump in if I not right on that.
A last ditch try for home.
If you control system false but fan is still good. A fused switched line right off the battery that can be plugged right into the fan after unplugging the normal system.

I fixed my drawing for that. They both feed off the battery directly now. I haven't even wired my fan up yet, and have no other fan at all. I have driven for a week like this with only minimum overheating if I have to sit at a red light for a while.
 
finally got the taurus fan in, had other commitments otherwise it'd have been done a while back. I don't have pictures of the install, it's not much different than every other one you find. The way it was wired up however is a little different. If you look back you'll see that it's "hot" wired to the battery so it's independant of the ignition, I wanted it that way so it'd help my vapor lock situation. The only thing that was a little tricky was the way the high side engages, it uses the ground the PCM provides for the aux. fan relay. All in all it works exactly the way it should, the only thing I need to do is plug a diode on the low speed relay to the fan. When the high speed engages it shuts off the low speed relay as planned, but the low speed in the fan acts as an alternator giving the low speed relay a good 17-18V buss. . . that was not planned. No big deal, just disconnected the high speed until I run into town and get the diode. When people say to make sure there aren't any small kids in front of your jeep when the taurus fan kicks on high, they aren't kidding. A great mod and I can't wait to finish the axle swap and lift to test it out.
 
Here is how I wire up taurus fans. It only uses 2 relays, and 1 toggle switch. The low can be controlled by a thermostat and the high only comes on when you flip the switch. They can't be run at the same time. The indicators aren't really necessary but some people like to know what thier fan is doing.


2speedfanvq9.jpg
 
before you do that do some research on this. I'm no electical guru myself, but after alot of research came to the conclusion that there are MUCH better alternatives than that route. If you just wire the high or low speed to a switch, you'll still need to run at least one big relay and fuse or else you're looking to burn your jeep down.
 
misterfubar, I was looking into doing something like that, but I really wanted a plug and play type deal with a master kill for deep water crossings. There's too many things for me to pay attention to let alone one whether I need to switch my fan on high or not. It's a good setup though, you don't run into problems with the low speed side of the fan building a charge when the high side is engaged? I was poking around with my multimeter and noticed my low speed relay was getting a good charge, hence diodes. . .
 
whitneyj said:
misterfubar, I was looking into doing something like that, but I really wanted a plug and play type deal with a master kill for deep water crossings. There's too many things for me to pay attention to let alone one whether I need to switch my fan on high or not. It's a good setup though, you don't run into problems with the low speed side of the fan building a charge when the high side is engaged? I was poking around with my multimeter and noticed my low speed relay was getting a good charge, hence diodes. . .

It probably wouldn't hurt to throw a diode on each of the power wires, but I haven't had any issues... Of course I no longer own either of the vehicles I've installed one in.

It would be pretty easy to get rid of the toggle and have the low on all the time and the high switched by a thermostat, or even both on a thermostat with a kill switch.

If I get bored I might draw up some more diagrams.
 
whitneyj said:
what year did you mount them in? assuming they were XJ's...

Nope, never installed one in an XJ. I do have a couple on the shelf in the garage and one is going to get installed in my Heep if I ever get around to it.
 
I couldn't believe the difference it made in throttle response. better than when I bored my TB out with the high-flow cat.
 
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