SYE & CV drive shaft: market options and recommendations

R

R-IK

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Israel
I own 100% stock Cherokee, 2001, 4dr, 4.0L with an automatic transmission.
The issue is that finally I have decided to purchase the RE 6030 kit (3.5"). The alternatives were OME 2" vs. RE 6030. It took me 2 months do get a decision :cry:

But now, I have discovered that it is most recommended to add a SYE (slip yoke eliminator) and CV (carbon whatsoever...) drive shaft.

The dealer suggested me to buy the AA (advanced adapters) and I found that part of you using the Tom Woods shafts.
What I need to know is:
1. What do I need in order to avoid/eliminate vibrations (is it a SYE only, SYE and CV drive shaft) ?
2. In case you have it, which one did you buy and did it help ?

I'm asking this since I live in Israel and I would like to be sure that no vibs shall emerge after the installation...and may good be with me

Regards, Arik.
 
When folks are talking about CV driveshaft they are refering to "Constant Velocity". In our case what we are wanting is a double cardigan joint on a driveshaft. Most people call the double cardigan joint a "CV" axle. Id check out JB conversions for my SYE (slip yoke eliminator) I like their super short kit.
 
savage1978 said:
When folks are talking about CV driveshaft they are refering to "Constant Velocity". In our case what we are wanting is a double cardigan joint on a driveshaft. Most people call the double cardigan joint a "CV" axle. Id check out JB conversions for my SYE (slip yoke eliminator) I like their super short kit.
Click to expand...

It's a double CARDAN joint. The cardigan is that woolly thing that you wear on your torso to stay warm when it's freezing outside. ;)
 
i have the AA HD SYE. it replaces the stock 20something spline output shaft with a 32 spline HD one. it was easy to do myself. i pulled the t-case out of the jeep to do it just because i was swapping t-cases at the same time. having a SYE gives you a yoke on the output of the t-case which makes it necessary to have a new driveshaft. (the rear one will look just like the front one now)

i got the sye and driveshaft combo from Rustys (cuz i get their stuff next day) it was like $400ish.

-Tim
 
the transfer case drop is a temporary band aid that some folks (like me) can get away with until they do a SYE/cv driveshaft. as soon as i put in my SYE the transfer case drop came out.

-Tim
 
call tom woods or read up on his site http://www.4xshaft.com/index.html
to help understand what you need to do.
If you use the shaft from the automatic, most likely it will need to be lengthened.
 
Thank you guys for the information.
Today I spent some time at work (hope my boss will not meet this thread :party: ) and decided to buy a package which will include the AA SYE and the Tom Woods C/V drive shaft.

Now I just have to make an order and wait for the kit....

Will update you as soon as I can.

hasta la vista !
 
hey, I'm new to this forum but ive been over at the JF for a while, so i thought i would say hey to yall. Sorry to parasite off your thread, but im wondering if anyone has any pics of installing the RE Hack-N-Tap SYE for the NP 231. im only at 3.5in...had no vibes w/ sotck t-case height but i lowered it anyways and i am planning on adding 2 more inches. So, if i get the Hack-N-Tap do i have to get a CV Drive shaft or can i just get the sye.
-Willie
 
I have yet to install my RE HnT and Front Driveshaft of an 88 AW4/NP231 XJ. I am still debating on a Tom Woods shaft because well, I'm broke! Hehe :)

Do you guys think the RE CV shaft is basically the same part as Tom's? What is the difference other than price?

Thanks
 
northernxj said:
People say you can use a front shaft but have to lengthen it. Could you use the rear but shorten it and get a sye? Thanks,
Stephen
Click to expand...

no, the two driveshafts are totally different. the rear shaft is one piece with a slip yoke. the front one is two piece with a cv joint and a slip spline in the middle

-tim
 
northernxj said:
People say you can use a front shaft but have to lengthen it.
Click to expand...

The front shaft from a 4.0 XJ automatic is only 30.6" long (collapsed length) so it still isn't long enough to use at the rear. Since it has a double cardan joint only at the TC end, I wonder if it would be worth adding another double cardan joint at the axle end? This would add 2.5" to the total length. Any thoughts on that idea?
 
Howdy !
I was asked to do some measurements...
1. from forward edge rubber boot to centerline of U joint at differential

2. Rear U-joint size


Note that I have a stock XJ (200, Automatic transmission with Dana 35 axle and 231J tc).

These are the sizes I measured:
U-Joint sizes: E (~3.1496063 inches), D (~1.96850394 inches)
Driveshaft size: ~36.023622 inches
I didn't pull out the drive shaft and I'm not so sure that I got the exact lengths.

Need your help with it. did anyone of you measured it and remember the lengths?

Thanks, Arik.
 
Last edited:
Dr. Dyno said:
The front shaft from a 4.0 XJ automatic is only 30.6" long (collapsed length) so it still isn't long enough to use at the rear. Since it has a double cardan joint only at the TC end, I wonder if it would be worth adding another double cardan joint at the axle end? This would add 2.5" to the total length. Any thoughts on that idea?
Click to expand...

Haven't used it yet, but I was told that the front drive shaft would work out back, so I picked one up for a spare in the rear. Mine's a 96 auto though. Not sure if you could put another cardan joint on the other end of a front shaft.
 
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