Slo-Sho
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Re: Stoker: Titan Engine: My Story
.040" quench height is optimal.
.040" quench height is optimal.
JJacobs said:Those seem pretty far in the hole, but I haven't had my hands on a 4.0 lately.
As for precisely measuring the depth, that depends on the piston to wall clearance. Yours are, what, hypereutectic? They run a pretty tight clearance so you shouldn't have too much rock. The best bet is to measure directly above the piston pin on the side of the squish area to eliminate measuring errors from the piston rocking in the bore.
JJacobs said:Those seem pretty far in the hole, but I haven't had my hands on a 4.0 lately.
As for precisely measuring the depth, that depends on the piston to wall clearance. Yours are, what, hypereutectic? They run a pretty tight clearance so you shouldn't have too much rock. The best bet is to measure directly above the piston pin on the side of the squish area to eliminate measuring errors from the piston rocking in the bore.
mhead said:Lastly, I measured the volume of the recess in the top of the piston: 11 cc.
Pistons are marked 060, of course the crank is from a 4.2 and I guess the rods are as well. Using the factory bore and stroke, plus all that I've measured I get:
Bore: 3.935" (stock + 0.060 bore - piston marked)
Stroke: 3.895" (stock)
Gasket thickness: 0.044" (my measurement)
Deck height above piston top: 0.050" (my measurement)
Piston recess volume: 11 (cc) (my measurement)
Cylinder head volume: 55 (cc) (my measurement)
Using the calculator at
http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/compstaticcalc.html
I get compression of 10:1 and calculating the ratio of BDC volume / TDC volume I get the same number 10:1.
Now filling in the spread sheet at www.madxj.com (under engine section)
Actual head volume: 55 (cc) (my measurement)
Bored over: 0.060 (says on piston)
Stroke of crank: 3.895 (stock stroker crank)
Decking of block: 0.000 (my guess)
Plaining of head: 0.000 (my guess)
Custom piston (cc): 11 (my measurement)
Rod length: 5.875 (stock stroker rod)
Piston height: 1.581 (I guessd on this on and just used the spread sheet value)
Under the 0.045 head gasket thickness column I see the expected 0.0495 Deck Clearance and the correct 0.0945 quench. All good so far. But the compression given is 13.35:1! What gives? What compression is the spread sheet calculating? A mistake?
I guess something is sick with the calculator since if you put in the numbers for the stock motor the upper section columns all agree but the compression ratios are all very wrong. Maybe there's something I'm missing?
Thanks!
mhead said:Here's the next edition of my story. Titan is really trying to help correct this engine. I'm getting a new head from them (for $300) to replace my cracked one. But simply putting a new head on will just get the engine back to the way it was prior to the valve bending. I requested a stock cam in the original engine sinceposts mentioned cam problems. But a stock cam gives the engine higher -dynamic- compression, hence the 200 PSI compression test result. Titan's experience with this engine comes from 'hotter' cams. So Titan is sending a
Clevite 229-2174 cam
for me to install. Anyone know anything about this particular cam?
Gojeep said:Pretty sure that is the one that was fitted to the install I did. It was the brand and I asked for a grind that was for a daily driver.
Not a good idea to use used lifters with new cam. The other way around is usually okay though.mhead said:Great! It is going in today. I have the original out and am comparing. Of course it's hard to tell the grind. Oddly the new Clevite, while it seems to have cams in the correct spots, also has one extra. The lobes on Clevite are more narrow.
Here's a question: I drove the Titan 2500 miles prior to this. So the lifters that were new now have 2500 miles. I've inspected and they don't seem scored. Can I reuse them or should I purchase new (about USD$70 for a set)?
Thanks!
Mike
Gojeep said:Personally I think those lifters will be fine myself but let others give their opinion too.
Also remember that now that you have a aftermarket cam you cannot just drop the dizzy in and lock it down like with a stock cam. Follow how I show in my install write up.
http://www.go.jeep-xj.info/HowtoEngineInstall1.htm
Gojeep said:Best thing to do is just cut the ears on the distributor right off like all pre EFI ones and go from there.
Titan are aware of my write up as I was talking to the stroker list while doing it and they lurk on there. Sent him the link so they could send the write up with future installs which they thought was a good idea along with the adjustable MAP sensor, but doesn't seem like they are doing it.
mhead said:Great! It is going in today. I have the original out and am comparing. Of course it's hard to tell the grind. Oddly the new Clevite, while it seems to have cams in the correct spots, also has one extra. The lobes on Clevite are more narrow.
Clean-RC said:1. The Clevite cam sounds like the 4.2L version, since the extra lobe is for the mechanical fuel pump.
2. Please do yourself the favor and spend the money and replace all the lifters even tho they have 2500 on them. cheap insurance.
mhead said:New lifters are in the box and awaiting installation. What's another $75? I've spent soooo much money on this engine so far!
But for the few miles it ran the power was really addictive. Can't live without it now....