Stroker Girdle spacing Idea

M

markaboo929

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Mooresville,NC
OK I am in the process of building my stroker...as in reference to the girdle issues.I am finding out through reading and checking my set up that you need to space it with usually 2 washers or for some only 1 leaving the problem of the oil pan fitment.I am thinking that all though I need to use 2 washers the pan will interfere...so I want to use 1 washer a thin 3/8 one fits and there is no pan issue ..BUT the girdle hits.What if in conjunction with 1 washer and having a machine shop mill the girdle in the area where it hits with minimal cleance as a result.Do you think it will hurt the strength that much if say .100 is removed?...I do not think it will due to it being pretty thick.Has anybody gone that route?
 
What do you find wrong with the stock girdle in later motors ?
 
Wayne Sihler said:
What do you find wrong with the stock girdle in later motors ?
Click to expand...


The rods hit the girdle due to a lack of clearance.

The stock girdle was designed to provide the maximum level of support so the stock 4.0 setup just misses it. As soon as you change the stroke, the rods hit. By moving it down, you get it further away from center (I know, duh...) and that pulls it out of the way.

And I see nothing wrong with using an "approved tool" to massage the pan for clearance...
 
I've got 100k+ on my Renix stroker with no girdle and no problems.
 
"Clearance" the pan slightly... it is only sheetmetal and only has to hold oil in. A block of wood or a dead blow should do the job, just don't warp it enough that the mounting flange is distorted.
 
Yeah thats what my initial plan was..love the image by the way!!! LOL Well anyways I did not want to do that ..I am buying a new pan.I work on big diesel engines..Cummins ISX and 12 - 13- and 16 liter Volvo engines...They have a sort of girdle built into the lower block like a seperate section to support the crank--with out it the block would come apart...so with the AMC/Jeep block being an inline 6--like a diesel I understand the reason for the girdle..I like piece of mind.I will probably have it milled and report back how it works out...I was just curious if any one else had this "Vision":idea:
 
Well there was an option to measure and buy machined washers,but the idea is not to just cleance it for the rods but also not have any potentail rubbing of the oil pan.A combination of a little from the girdle itself and some generic washers would work,best of both worlds.Jakes Racing Engines has a spacer "kit" for $30 but I am willing to bet it is a hand full of machined washers the correct size..:shhh: Bottom of page.
http://jakesracingengines.nstemp.com/Stroker parts page.htm
 
It may be possible to do that .You would have to use a crank scraper and that would space it down,BUT it requires the use of all silicone on the crank scraper/oil pan spacer...not happy doing that-ever have an all silicone part leak? PITA to clean up while it is in the vehicle.Here is the scraper I am refering to...
http://www.crank-scrapers.com/amc.html
STA71873.jpg
 
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Well I have desided to go the route of milling the gridle and use of washers.I dropped it off this morning and spoke with the machinist about what I wanted.We measured the girdle and it is 200 thousands...as in .200 and we are taking off about .070 thousands leaving .130 which is just about 1/8 inch (.125) only a 1 " section mid point of the #1,#3,#4,#6 cylinders and the full length of #2 and #5 is the area that needs to be removed.#2 and #5 have a raised tip on them so I went wider there.We both were confident on this as it still leaves all the same material where the girdle bolts to and only minimal removal elsewhere.Leaving it off maybe ok,but I can not see that.Good side...he is only charging me $20...:)
 
I went to the local Fastenal store and bought some 0.125 (1/8") thick hardened washers. Gave me about 0.025" clearance between rods and girdle. Only had to massage the oil pan a little.
 
The washers I got from Lowes measured .070 each (total with 2 = .140) gave me plenty of clearence but as you had done you still massaged the oil pan.I did not want to go that route I felt that the factory had minimal clearence on the "brace" ,by what Jeep calls it,There still is a chance due to vibration and slight harmonics it will rub the pan eventually.Many have done that and have no issues what so ever.I have not recieved it back yet though...I am picky bout stuff and once I have my mind set well....it does'nt stray far from that.I still have an open mind.I am not that old yet...LOL:farmer:
 
well cant seem to get pics up copy paste whatever....The shop ended taking the said .070" off and it worked out great I have at least .070
" clearence from the rods to girdle and NO issue with the pan interference.....if I could only get a friggin pic up to show you all......
 
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You tried to link to an image that's stored on your computer... it will work for you probably but no one else. You have to upload it to one of the usual image hosts (there is a writeup on how to do it in the FAQ area I think) and use that.
 
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