Strapping a vehicle to a trailer?

if you have a ratchet strap with an S hook, J hook, or a T hook, you can use them in the factory frame rail tie down holes.

I worked for years for a company that hauled the new Nissans and Saturns off their lots. Each manufacturer had their own regulations on how the vehicles had to be tied down, and with the exception of the Frontier, which allowed for an axle wrap on the rear, every thing needed to be snugged down with the frame rail tie town holes.

The factory holes on the XJ are: 2 oval shaped cut outs on the bottom of the frame rail just behind the mark where the front and rear doors meet and 2 oval shaped cut outs on the bottom of the frame rail immediately behind the upper control arm mounts.
 
Here is how I strap.

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The rear has the chain looped over the axle and pulled taut. 2 straps to the front axle. I also compress the suspension with straps. My trailer springs do fine. My suspension moves quite a bit if I don't compress the suspension. With the curvy roads it'll sway.
 
When securing anything on a trailer, remember double forward single aft. (as in you need twice the securing ability on the rear of your Jeep) You can stop way faster than you can accelerate. Make sense?

That's kinda why I have the chain on the rear. Beside if by some strange planet alignment all my straps break I chain will keep the xj from coming through the cab of the truck.
 
if attaching to frame is not a great idea, then every tow truck in the country wouldn't be doing it
Not true, if you look, most flatbeds will have a vehicle strapped down by the tires or the axle. When you hook only to the frame, if the suspension compresses further when you hit a bump, your tie-downs slack up momentarily, and can cause your load to shift.
On anything like our jeeps, I also run something to the frame as a secondary tie down to limit the suspension movement, but only as a last resort will I do frame/unibody only.
I worked for years for a company that hauled the new Nissans and Saturns off their lots. Each manufacturer had their own regulations on how the vehicles had to be tied down, and with the exception of the Frontier, which allowed for an axle wrap on the rear, every thing needed to be snugged down with the frame rail tie town holes.
90% of those vehicles also have limited suspension travel, not so with our XJ's.
 
Two straps per axle, for a total of 4 straps extending to the far corners of the trailer. It works for me.............I never thought about the suspension of the jeep being utilized in lieu of the trailer. Ah hah!
 
I've been in the car hauling business for 20 years, I haul mainly exotics in inclosed race car trailers and the best way I have found to strap a car to a trailer is through the wheels. Stick a strap through the holes of the wheels crank it down snug. This allows for the suspension to move freely as it would under normal driving. Make sure the strap has a decent downward angle to it. Depending on how far your going you might want to run the straps in an X. We have found that over large distances in our enclosed trailers cars tended to bounce and slide there way over to the right due to the curve of the road, by running the straps in an X it will stop this problem. ( My insurance sure hates it when we open up a trailer and a $500k Rolls Royce Phantom has slid over and is rubbing the side of the trailer)

Also, make sure that your attachment points match front to rear. For instance Dont strap to the axle or wheels up front and then to the frame in the rear. It will move and come lose. This is the #1 mistake my drivers have done over the years when damage has been caused.
 
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You can stop way faster than you can accelerate. Make sense?

I beg to differ Hank...come take a ride in my new tow rig...1193 lb/ft of torque. I bet I can throw ya in the back seat with the jeep hooked up:wierd:
 
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